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I needed to replace a stud in the timing cover for my water pump. I installed the water pump and put a but on the new stud. It tightened down but I couldn't get it it torque. What's weird is the stud wasn't turning, the nut just spun and eventually it pulls the stud out. Should it try running a tap through the hole or does this sound like a helicoil fix? I'm so frustrated...
Helicoil or maybe larger stud. Tap won't help UNLESS you can go deeper and use a longer stud? Might be some hole left that wasn't threaded. A bottoming tap might help.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
The hole for the stud is only about 1/4" deep and I'm not sure if there's even enough material there for a helicoil. I know the stud went through all the threads because it came out the back side. Like I mentioned, the mounting surface on the timing cover is only about 1/4" thick.
Hey guys, to be honest, there are several ways to make thread repairs. Lock tite used to make a type of stuff like epoxy with a releasing agent. I have never tried it though so I cant say how it works. I have on the other hand used Helicoils. If it were me, that would be the way I would go. A nickles worth of free advice though, make triple sure you tap it straight. I have got them off just a little and it becomes a major pain. They are a great fix though,
68glad wrote:Not sure what the 327 timing cover looks like. If the stud went all the way through is there room to put a nut on the back side?
I don't have a good pic but can get one later. There are four studs in the cover that hold the pump and they all fit in holes that go into the water passage. I thought about using a bolt and but instead but once the pump is on there is no way to hold the nut. The stud will still thread in it just won't tighten so I wonder if a slightly larger stud will work.
Sears used to sell these as a set, but no longer. I have mostly used these to remove damaged p-head screws, but they will work on larger screws.
With a bolt in an engine, I would do everything I could to loosen the remaining screw shaft before the screw extractor. That includes penetrating oil, heat, whacking it with a pin punch. If the Alden extractor did not work, I would then use a left-handed drill bit to drill out the stud to the original clearance size, not oversize. Usually a left-handed bit will screw out the remaining bolt shank once you get a ways into the shank.
Tim Reese
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The stud is 5/16". I'm actually using a spare timing cover which only had three studs in it and I can't remember now what happened to the fourth one. So I bought a stud and installed but it wouldn't torque. I think there may be two problems with the stud I bought: 1) it might be slightly too small as it will thread in but won't tighten, and 2) the step in the middle where the threads change is very short and I wonder if it isn't significant enough to wedge against the cover.
Sounds like if you can get a nut on the back, some Loctite on the stud and that nut and anti-sieze on the nut you'd normally remove should fix you up.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
[qu ote="SJTD"]Sounds like if you can get a nut on the back, some Loctite on the stud and that nut and anti-sieze on the nut you'd normally remove should fix you up.[/quote]
I picked some and will give it a shot. I like this idea better than a nut on the inside just in case it backed off for some reason and ended up circulating through my cooling system. Finger crossed!