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Has anyone ever tried using a solar reflective elastomeric coating on their roof before? I live in AZ and I'm trying to do everything I can to keep the heat out of the cab until I find some R12 so I can recharge my AC. I have already put a layer of insulation on the inside, and want to coat the outside. Just curious to know if anyone else has beat me to the punch, and if they did, how well it worked.
It wouldn't be cheap, but have you ever considered a safari roof? It's just a roof over your roof, separated by an airspace. Land Rover did it back in the day with their African rigs, hence the name of the idea. You've probably seen a similar idea out there in trailer parks. I've seen tons of mobile homes with "carports" built over them to keep the sun off the trailer's roof. It wouldn't chill the interior. But it should keep it from heating up so much. I'm thinking of ways to do it myself; we have an abundance of sunshine here as well.
I work at ACE Hardware down here and we have Henry Dura-brite and Solarflex elastomeric paint for roughly $25-30/ gallon. I wouldn't need an entire gallon to do one roof. From what I can tell my Freon is just low, compressor works fine (gets a little cold after about 30 minutes of 60+mph), no leaks, just need R12. I roll the windows down now just to feel something, but when it's 110+ outside it's like trying to cool down with a hair dryer in your face! I haven't thought about a safari roof, that's the first I have heard of it. Interesting concept, but would be a bit more time consuming than just painting. I figure that Toyota FJ's have the white roof to keep heat off so this paint should be even better. I have felt this stuff on a roof, in 112 heat, and cool to the touch. I will post some pics and let you know how it goes when I'm done.
On the R12 subject, is there anyone on here in the Coolidge/Casa Grande/East Valley Phoenix area that has a can or two up for sale? I went to everyone local and after getting a speech about how R12 is the devil, I found a dealership with two cans, but no hose and they wanted a lot more than I was willing to pay.
You try ebay? I did a quick search and it looks like there are plenty of folks still selling it on there. I have never bought it as I converted the only vehicle I have owned that used it but looks promising. Ebay R12
I never think to look on EBay ever since I lost my Audi. That might be the way to go. I was just trying to find some local so I didn't have to wait. Patience has never been my strong point.
That's another thing I've been looking into. I don't have the equipment needed to build them and I have yet to find anyone who sells them. Do you have pictures of yours?
I picked up some Dura-brite and a few other things needed to fix the roof and plug the holes left behind by the PO when he removed the rack. Should make for a fun Tuesday project.
Ive have heard of the expedition rig group using Henry Dura-brite on their roofs for this purpose. I think it would work good. I might try it on mine if I end up doing much expedition type trips.
That's another thing I've been looking into. I don't have the equipment needed to build them and I have yet to find anyone who sells them. Do you have pictures of yours?
I've actually thought about making some tube doors for some folks, but I think that due to all the time it takes to find the parts, bend/grind/weld the metal that it wouldn't be worth it. I think I would have to charge somewhere in the $400 range...
They make it substantially cooler though, not to mention the added visibility and cool factor.
That's another thing I've been looking into. I don't have the equipment needed to build them and I have yet to find anyone who sells them. Do you have pictures of yours?
I've actually thought about making some tube doors for some folks, but I think that due to all the time it takes to find the parts, bend/grind/weld the metal that it wouldn't be worth it. I think I would have to charge somewhere in the $400 range...
They make it substantially cooler though, not to mention the added visibility and cool factor.
Nice rig! I like the doors, did you use the stock hinges? I think that's going to be my next big project, right after I change the manifold, install a 4bbl, TFI, lift kit, tires, wheels, tint the windows, finally recharge the AC, get my seats reclothed, install a new headliner, get a new stereo, wire in new speakers, and swap the t-case, but it's on the list now!
My tube doors are 100% bolt on/off. I used some 2000's Mazda 626 rear door hinges because they are small and tons of 'em are in the yard and they are very easy to remove from the donor car. I then used the rear door latches from a 2000's ZJ. I chose rear hinges/latches because I figured they would be in better shape than the fronts (less overall use). I then used some .095" wall seamed tube and welded it all together. No rattles, very sturdy, very light and easy to open/close.
If there is enough interest, I could create a post and put some pics of the build process and perhaps even make a couple for some folks. I'm seriously considering making some sort of soft doors/windows that attach to the tube doors for rain/snow protection because I like 'em so much and would like to run 'em in the winter.
So I sent an email to the Henry company to see if their product would apply better to bare metal or paint and after arguing with the guy about the proper use of the product I went right over the paint. TURNED OUT GREAT! I was in Phoenix today and though I couldn't tell you how hot it was, the cab was amazingly cooler. As you all know, we drive large tin cans and they heat up really quick, but now the Wagonator stays at least 20 degrees cooler inside (but I still have no AC). At the end of todays journey, in which I scored two cans of R12 for $30 each, I ran into a much more complicated problem, but that is a discussion for another thread.