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Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 9:10 am
by Lumpskie
Ok. One more question for you guys.

My wife just called. The waggy won't start. She says it makes not sound at all when she attempts to crank it. Headlights work(battery) but there is no noise when she tries to crank it over. My thoughts:

1. Ignition switch
2. Starter relay? (But, from what I understand, this will only fail in a way that allows the engine to crank but not fire)

What do you guys think? Also... do you think that the blinkers going out could be related to this issue? (Maybe water got into something?)

Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 9:44 am
by tedlovesjeeps71
Battery too low? Perhaps there is a parasitic drain or short to ground. If she's able to jump it off then that may be something to look at. Also, check the usual suspects of loose/corroded terminals and wires in the battery system.


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Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 10:00 am
by SJTD
I think it's mad because you kept it in a box all winter.

I don't think your comment on the relay is necessarily true.

Other than that I think Ted covered it.

Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 11:04 am
by Lumpskie
Just got home. You guys were right. I turned the key to the on position... Voltage showed 8V. Hooked up charger to jump and it gave a half hearted turn over. Charging now.

Thanks for the help!

Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Posted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 1:28 am
by tedlovesjeeps71
Lumpskie wrote:Just got home. You guys were right. I turned the key to the on position... Voltage showed 8V. Hooked up charger to jump and it gave a half hearted turn over. Charging now.

Thanks for the help!
Glad you figured it out. It may be worthwhile to do a voltage drop test on the battery/cables, etc. See if you can find a why.

Re: Lumpskie's

Posted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 4:04 am
by Lumpskie
tedlovesjeeps71 wrote:
Lumpskie wrote:Just got home. You guys were right. I turned the key to the on position... Voltage showed 8V. Hooked up charger to jump and it gave a half hearted turn over. Charging now.

Thanks for the help!
Glad you figured it out. It may be worthwhile to do a voltage drop test on the battery/cables, etc. See if you can find a why.

...maybe one of us left a back door open... :oops:

Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Posted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 10:42 am
by tedlovesjeeps71
That'll do it... Hahaha


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Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2017 8:50 am
by Lumpskie
So, my wife was driving the Wagoneer around and noticed that the oil pressure was low. I did a little test and pressure is normal when cold but drops off more than usual once heated up. (This may have happened to be before... I can't really remember) Anyway, the only thing different than typical is that I used Lucas ZDDP additive in my oil change. Could that be contributing to lower than typical oil pressure?

Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2017 2:41 pm
by az chip
Lumpskie wrote:So, my wife was driving the Wagoneer around and noticed that the oil pressure was low. I did a little test and pressure is normal when cold but drops off more than usual once heated up. (This may have happened to be before... I can't really remember) Anyway, the only thing different than typical is that I used Lucas ZDDP additive in my oil change. Could that be contributing to lower than typical oil pressure?
I don't think so. Unless all the zinc went to the top of the gears and scored the plate. :o

Try an oil change without the ZDDP.

Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Posted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 7:12 am
by Lumpskie
az chip wrote:
I don't think so. Unless all the zinc went to the top of the gears and scored the plate. :o

Try an oil change without the ZDDP.
I tried an oil only change with ZDDP, just draining the filter and replacing. (just in case oil was actually the problem) It improved slightly but still not where it should be. Last night, I swapped the filter out for a new one but didn't get a chance to drive it. If that doesn't make a difference, I'll just go new oil and filter, no ZDDP and see what that does. I should have read your post earlier!

Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Posted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 10:48 am
by az chip
The oil pressure sender can get gummed up. Mine did.

Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2017 5:44 pm
by Lumpskie
az chip wrote:The oil pressure sender can get gummed up. Mine did.
That's good to know. I wonder if that may be a contributor... After swapping the filter, pressure seems to be close to normal. But Im naturally suspicious of easy fixes. I'll update after putting more miles on it.

Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2017 6:46 pm
by az chip
Lumpskie wrote:
az chip wrote:The oil pressure sender can get gummed up. Mine did.
That's good to know. I wonder if that may be a contributor... After swapping the filter, pressure seems to be close to normal. But Im naturally suspicious of easy fixes. I'll update after putting more miles on it.
I took the whole thing apart. My 360 has the oil pressure switch for the carb choke as well. That had solidified oil inside so it was always on. The oil pressure sender replacement was a pain. I went through three senders before I found a combination that would fit my original wiring and not fail after one run.

Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2017 8:36 pm
by Nikkormat
Oil can break down in weird ways too. Could.have lost viscosity.

Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Posted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 10:08 am
by Lumpskie
az chip wrote:
I took the whole thing apart. My 360 has the oil pressure switch for the carb choke as well. That had solidified oil inside so it was always on. The oil pressure sender replacement was a pain. I went through three senders before I found a combination that would fit my original wiring and not fail after one run.
That doesn't sound like a fun project to dig into at all!

Nikkormat wrote:Oil can break down in weird ways too. Could.have lost viscosity.
It did. The oil was much thinner than expected. It was Mobile 1 full synthetic with the Lucas ZDDP additive.

Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Posted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 11:13 am
by Nikkormat
I've had that happen a few times. Usually after I've had to mix oils. Say, rotella full synthetic with gas station dino oil.

Maybe try running just a diesel oil without an addative? I don't know what weight you're running now or what your oil pressure looks like but my Cherokee is very very happy with 5w40.

Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Posted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 3:50 am
by Lumpskie
Nikkormat wrote:I've had that happen a few times. Usually after I've had to mix oils. Say, rotella full synthetic with gas station dino oil.

Maybe try running just a diesel oil without an addative? I don't know what weight you're running now or what your oil pressure looks like but my Cherokee is very very happy with 5w40.
I'm just running Mobile 1 synthetic 10 w30, because it's what I usually have in the garage. My oil pressure is usually 60 cold idle then just above the bottom line warm. (10 or 20?) Doddling around town, I usually keep about 40psi while I usually see 50psi on the freeway. I don't know if that's good or not.

Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Posted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 11:06 pm
by dodgerammit
Lumpskie wrote:
Nikkormat wrote:I've had that happen a few times. Usually after I've had to mix oils. Say, rotella full synthetic with gas station dino oil.

Maybe try running just a diesel oil without an addative? I don't know what weight you're running now or what your oil pressure looks like but my Cherokee is very very happy with 5w40.
I'm just running Mobile 1 synthetic 10 w30, because it's what I usually have in the garage. My oil pressure is usually 60 cold idle then just above the bottom line warm. (10 or 20?) Doddling around town, I usually keep about 40psi while I usually see 50psi on the freeway. I don't know if that's good or not.
About on par with mine. 50psi cold, about 15-20 warm at idle, 40 on the road. 148K miles. Havoline 10w40 and Lucas. I tend to use Havoline in engines of older vintage (the 283 in my 64 gets 10w-30). My 4th gen T/A with the LS runs Mobil 5W30 synthetic. It does great in LS motors.

Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Posted: Thu Aug 31, 2017 8:34 am
by Lumpskie
dodgerammit wrote:
About on par with mine. 50psi cold, about 15-20 warm at idle, 40 on the road. 148K miles. Havoline 10w40 and Lucas. I tend to use Havoline in engines of older vintage (the 283 in my 64 gets 10w-30). My 4th gen T/A with the LS runs Mobil 5W30 synthetic. It does great in LS motors.
So, it sounds like I'm in the normal ball park. I think this oil gets really thin when it gets warm. I'm used to seeing 50psi and I'm seeing just less than 40 on the road. Maybe I'll try that Havoline for my next oil change...

Re: Lumpskie's "More Questions than Answers" build

Posted: Thu Aug 31, 2017 10:40 am
by dodgerammit
Lumpskie wrote:
dodgerammit wrote:
About on par with mine. 50psi cold, about 15-20 warm at idle, 40 on the road. 148K miles. Havoline 10w40 and Lucas. I tend to use Havoline in engines of older vintage (the 283 in my 64 gets 10w-30). My 4th gen T/A with the LS runs Mobil 5W30 synthetic. It does great in LS motors.
So, it sounds like I'm in the normal ball park. I think this oil gets really thin when it gets warm. I'm used to seeing 50psi and I'm seeing just less than 40 on the road. Maybe I'll try that Havoline for my next oil change...
I'd say it has to do with tolerances and pump more than anything. My T/A (and my previous one) both hold 40-60 at idle, then 60-80 at highway speed. I know rotella diesel oils are thicker than normal weight. Personally, I go for the basic rule of thumb 10psi per 1000rpm. Anything equal or above is okay. I wouldn't sweat it too much if it isn't burning oil too badly or unless the pressure gets really low. Plus, factory gauges can be iffy. Maybe hook a mechanical under the hood temporarily and see what the actual readings are.