Full Size Jeep Network

Narrowed it down a little...

Vin#15247 built Oct. 1973
Vin#42317 build Jan. 1974

So my Vin#26383 is probably November 1973.

Unofficial First-Year Cherokee registry

Not far off, mines 23902.

I don't think that fuel pressure is really your problem I'm running the same carb (carter not edlebrock but their the same design) the throttle plate rods on ours are seperate from the float bowls, it never comes in contact with fuel. But what was causing this issue on mine was a bad set of needles and seats. The fuel pressure overflowed the bowls only after shut down when no fuel was being consumed but the system was still presurized so it didn't do it while running. The fuel ran down the side of the carb and dripped off there.

But I will warn you now, buy the needles and seats sperate from the rebuild kit. You might be able to re use your existing bowl gasket. If that's the case put in the new 16 dollar needle and seat set and return the 50 dollar rebuild kit. If you do need a new gasket then you have one on hand, but hopefully you won't need it and can just reuse the old one. If you do have to use the new one then you can return the separately purchased needle and seat set.

Get to it!

Well it has been a while

Started to replace all the parts...




Going back to work early tomorrow to hopefully finish it ...

Updates.

Finally took the 401 apart to get to the timing chain and other parts replacement.





Removing everything went pretty smooth. Nothing broke!

The old timing chain.








Video of the chain slack.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4ri2gIyrHk




New chain installed




Putting it all back together took time. I made sure everything was super clean. My girlfriend helped me by also cleaning pieces/parts. ( Although she did drop 2 valve cover bolts when she installed them which fell into the pit I was working above. Luckily I found them the next day.)


Only really problems were:
Harmonic balance/water pump casting clearance. File took care of it.
Setting up the new alternator. Finally got it, just took time getting it to where I was happy.








Started it up Thursday afternoon "Clang clang clang!" Quickly shut it down. All my co-workers come outside. I look over everything but don't see what it could be. So as I am laying on the ground and someone is watching the engine a third person starts it. It ends up being the fan blades making contact with the bolts I used to make the fan shroud cover. ( Since my shroud was broken.) Quick fix as I loosen the passenger side and lifted it up.

I also replaced the fuel lines so it was only running from what fuel was in the carburetor bowl. Once fuel did run through the new lines it started leaking out single fuel line tube mating surface against the carb. I replaced the crush gaskets I used with another set and all was good.


Now to fine tune everything ( which I am not good at)

Good thing most the leaks were fixed. Unfortunately it is leaking slightly out the passenger side valve cover and the oil pan gasket is leaking by the rear main seal. I used the 4 piece set but I do recall seeing something about a 1 piece. ( Of course this is after I had the 4 piece.)

Cool! What year alternator bracket did you use for the 144?

Nikkormat wrote:Cool! What year alternator bracket did you use for the 144?

Don't recall exactly but the main piece maybe from a '78. I bought it from a member here.



I used the adjuster that mdill makes. http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthre ... ht=bracket

Then a mixture of bolts from my old set up, from the bracket set up I bought and spacers that came with the water pump and one that I needed to buy.

It has been a while since updating this Been driving it once or twice a week or if I have to get out of town...Been really nice here in the PNW that I have been driving my '47 Willys a lot ( Topless of course, The jeep not me )

Running really nice for the most part. Still have a slight rear main seal leak. Have a slight exhaust tick from the passenger side manifold, The starter is getting heat soaked where after I drive it a while, it does not want to restart easily. I have already put exhaust wrap on the drivers side (easier to do) Need to do the passenger side. Also just ordered a heat shield for the starter.

Replaced the exhaust flange gasket on the passenger manifold and the tick is gone. Noticed I am leaking oil again Small drops on the oil pump and some dripping on the front drive shaft which is throwing it all over the exhaust. So I'll degrease the motor and try to find where it is coming from.

Driving this everyday as the throw out bearing in the CJ2A is making an awful lot of noise.

Still has oil leaking. Thinking rear main The longer I run the Jeep and the hotter the motor gets, it leaks more. Getting thrown on to the front driveshaft, which is throwing it onto the exhaust pipe.


Also this Jeep runs very hot! Temp gauge says normal, so it must be accurate Only have a 2 mile drive to work but it radiates heat ( More then I think it should)

First start up in the morning it is at about 1200 rpms, drive to the corner and it drops to around 900 rpms. By the time I get to work it is at 650 rpms. Idles nice and smooth, doesn't stumble on take off.

It is running rich, as in previous owner install way bigger needle and seats. (When I rebuilt I did not even look at what size they were just noted where I took them out of. Last week I took out the needles and it is a .113 Stock Carter 1406 is a .098. Already got a new rebuild kit and replacement needles and seats.) ( Yes I enjoy doing things over and over....)

Fixed my passenger window today. Nothing was holding the glass in the window channel frame. So if you rolled it down it fell out.


I took a bike inner tube, folded it in half and pushed the channel frame on to the glass. Fits nice and snug. Window now goes up and down with no problem My girlfriend will be happy now.

Great work on the 401, very clean work. Looks better than mine does What water pump are you using? I dropped in a bigger aluminum ebay radiator and a high (it so claims anyway) flow water pump. Cooling Issues no more! Jeeps leaking oil, that must be a first! good news you don't have to pull the motor to do a rear main.

Renodemona wrote:Great work on the 401, very clean work. Looks better than mine does What water pump are you using? I dropped in a bigger aluminum ebay radiator and a high (it so claims anyway) flow water pump. Cooling Issues no more! Jeeps leaking oil, that must be a first! good news you don't have to pull the motor to do a rear main.

Thanks

Water pump is whatever Rockauto sent.

My CJ2A leaks oil. The Cherokee drips oil, onto the exhaust. My girlfriends '06 Liberty Renegade drops ( yes drops) oil. ( Pan is rusted out) We are just marking our territory ( The street in front of the apartment )

Sometimes a rear main seal is a loose Valve cover gasket or not enough RTV, I use the felpro composite not the cork, and put a thin bead of RTV. let is sit before tightening it lightly... then recheck latter, and it is always loose especially the passenger side, and yes, it will drop oil up front and in the back...

If you remove the flywheel access plate and wipe the engine block it will be obvious (sometimes) if it is leaking.

As for the oil pan.... I use the 4 part set, and yes it requires more RTV at the corners....

letank wrote:Sometimes a rear main seal is a loose Valve cover gasket or not enough RTV, I use the felpro composite not the cork, and put a thin bead of RTV. let is sit before tightening it lightly... then recheck latter, and it is always loose especially the passenger side, and yes, it will drop oil up front and in the back...

If you remove the flywheel access plate and wipe the engine block it will be obvious (sometimes) if it is leaking.

As for the oil pan.... I use the 4 part set, and yes it requires more RTV at the corners....

Don't think it is the valve cover, I will have to go really look. I know it can't be that easy.... Eventually I will drop the pan again and attempt to replace the rear main.

Flywheel access point is removed ( I have 2 covers) and still not super easy to see. I have degreased the whole area too. Need to set a side of time to go over this.

The utlimate test is the uv dye in the oil.... let it run for 1 or 2 min... turn off... put goggles on and uv light.... yes, I know another piece of tool/equipment to purchase...

The UV is real handy though, I'd say it's worth the purchase.

My passenger valve cover leaks and doesn't leave the block until the flexplate shield. Hopefully you get lucky.

Have yet to still look for the oil leak

I did rebuild the carburetor (again) This time I had new jets and rods to go with it.

The old set up was: .095 Primary jet; .100 Secondary jet and .071 x .047 Rods. With a Orange (5") step up spring.

New set up.: .098 Primary; .095 Secondary and .070 x .037 rods. With a Yellow (4") step up spring.




Of course now that I wrote that down I see a mistake I made

Last weekend I ended up replacing the oil pan gasket again but I also replaced the rear main seal. Was nervous but all seams well. Been driving it everyday since and I am not seeing drops everywhere... Still have the torque converter cover to put on. I also dropped the auxiliary gas tank and replaced some fuel lines.Reconnected vent lines also.

Been while since I posted.

I'll try to add photos later from my phone.

Since it has been getting here, my transmission is making noise. When cold I can here it try to circulate ( I blame myself for adding the Lucas transmission fix ) but once it is at operating temperature and I have been driving a while when I encounter a rise in elevation it sounds like a bearing going bad.

I dropped the trans and transfer case yesterday. Drained as much as I could out of the converter and removed to transfer case and also the adapter. (needed a new gasket between the transfer and adapter)

Bearing in adapter feels and looks good. Shaft coming out of the turbo 400 had what I feel like is a lot of play and when spinning the shaft I am hearing a groaning type noise.