Amazon knockoff 2150 carb questions

[89er]

I just attempted install on this Amazon carburetor and I’m having some difficulties. On my old 2150 the top port on the front is sealed. Should I do this to the new one? What’s the best way to seal it? Maybe someone kind can eyeball all I’ve got going wrong here with the throttle link ups. It will fire up currently but won’t idle.

IMG_6736.jpeg

IMG_6735.jpeg

[tgreese]

Put a cap on it. If you're not connecting to the vapor recovery system, it is redundant. The bowl is also vented through the tubes on the air horn.

I would have expected that port to be present on an '89. The '89 vaccum diagram on the Tom Collins site shows it should be there. Suspect you already had a replacement carburetor. What air cleaner are you using?

https://oljeep.com/gw/vac/89/89-FSJ-HDC_Vacuum.jpg

Re the idle, how are the idle mixture screws set? The idle stop solenoid may be the only adjustment for idle speed. Set too low (throttle flaps closed) and the engine won't run. Will the engine run a low speed if you hold the throttle open? Did the carburetor come with tuning instructions?

[89er]

Got it capped and now it’ll run for about 6 seconds before dying, so a little better. I adjusted the idle screw it doesn’t seem to be doing much.

I haven’t messed with the mixture screws on the front at all. I’m using the stock air cleaner. The engine will run as long as I give it gas. It came with no instructions.

[tgreese]

Capped or not, it does nothing while the engine is running and will have no effect. It's open to the bowl, which is also open to the air horn. Cap it to keep dirt/dust out.

The '89 TSM has a chapter on the 2150 carburetor which you should read. Page 14-157 forward. Either the mixture screws set wrong, or the idle set screw set wrong, will make the engine not idle. It's naive to think you can bolt on this new carburetor without reasonable starting settings, and adjustment for tuning following. Not a bolt-on-and-go thing.

Suggest you download the TSM so you can read it on your desktop. https://oljeep.com/edge_parts_man.html

TSM.png

It will be easier once you understand what each of the adjustments does and how the carburetor works, at least to some degree. The carburetor has several circuits - choke, idle, power, and cruise - which are explained in the TSM.

[tgreese]

Looking at the '89 TSM, I suggest you download an earlier TSM (I looked at the one for '79) and read there. The earlier manual presents the carburetor circuits better. Then go to the '89 manual for the tuning specs.

Note your replacement carburetor is a 2150 clone, but it does not come with the altitude compensating "aneroid" that was added by Jeep Corp.

[89er]

I understand it needs tuning and adjustments out of the box. I can't seem to find directions on tuning it, I'll keep searching unless someone has them handy.

I did figure out the reason it wouldn't idle is because I needed to adjust the fast idle screw.

It now stays running until I goose it and the fast idle turns off then it just dies. Adjusting the slow idle doesnt seem to help the issue. This is probably it just running BEEPY having not been tuned yet.

[tgreese]

The fast idle screw is on the choke assembly. The '89 TSM tells you how to set it. You need to set the fast idle, the curb idle and the idle mixture.

There is a table of settings at the top of the 2150 section in the '89 TSM. A lot of good stuff in the TSM if you make the effort to find and appreciate it.

Rebuild kits typically come with a sheet of adjustment instructions you must make on the bench prior to installation. I have one for a 2100 which might help -
https://www.nmr.mgh.harvard.edu/~reese/ ... ykit1a.jpg
https://www.nmr.mgh.harvard.edu/~reese/ ... ykit1b.jpg
https://www.nmr.mgh.harvard.edu/~reese/ ... fykit2.jpg

Suggest you do not use these instructions, but instead read the manual and use the correct instructions for your year, model and equipment.

[devildog80]

Check the float setting, as these are not set perfect when they ship. Found Amazon carb I used needed correction, and helped a bunch having correct fuel level in the bowl.
Also check the jet size between your old carb and new. I had to swap jets too.

[89er]

Check the float setting, as these are not set perfect when they ship. Found Amazon carb I used needed correction,and helped a bunch having correct fuel level in the bowl.
Also check the jet size between your old carb and new. I had to swap jets too.

Thank you for these tips. I looked at a few videos of people adjusting motorcraft 2150 floats and it looks like they opened it up and just bent the float to try and flatten it out. Is that what you did or is there some external adjustment mechanism on these amazon carbs? Also, where did you buy the jets? Thanks again!

[devildog80]

Yep, just a slight bend adjustment on the float, and I used the jets from my original carb to swap into the new one, as they were already sized for the tune of the truck. Just make sure you have a proper sized screwdriver that fits correctly in the head of the jet, with lots of downward pressure to keep the bite of the screwdriver tight on the jet, and turn slowly. The old jets usually will be tight, and once popped loose should turn out easy, but just need snugged into the new carb to seat. They are soft brass, do not need to have a lot of torque on them, as the heads will strip easily.
I found the new carb came with .047 and I was using .056 in my old carb.

Here are some jet pics from one of my 2100 carb projects. As said, be careful taking out the old jets. The heads are really soft so make sure the screwdriver is seated properly and good firm down pressure while loosening.

Jets in the old carb
20231008_104824 by Scott Weckerly, on Flickr

Old jets out and cleaned
20231008_105519 by Scott Weckerly, on Flickr

Example of jet heads that did not have correct size screwdriver head, and not enough down pressure applied. Almost had to drill the one out with the broken tab corners.
20211114_113922 by Scott Weckerly, on Flickr


I bought my jets through Allstate Carbs @ around $6.50 a set about 3 years back.
https://allcarbs.com/product/motorcraft ... 0f83e594a1
20211121_092214 by Scott Weckerly, on Flickr

Another good source is Mikes Carbs
https://www.carburetor-parts.com/

[89er]

Yep, just a slight bend adjustment on the float, and I used the jets from my original carb to swap into the new one, as they were already sized for the tune of the truck. Just make sure you have a proper sized screwdriver that fits correctly in the head of the jet, with lots of downward pressure to keep the bite of the screwdriver tight on the jet, and turn slowly. The old jets usually will be tight, and once popped loose should turn out easy, but just need snugged into the new carb to seat. They are soft brass, do not need to have a lot of torque on them, as the heads will strip easily.
I found the new carb came with .047 and I was using .056 in my old carb.

Here are some jet pics from one of my 2100 carb projects. As said, be careful taking out the old jets. The heads are really soft so make sure the screwdriver is seated properly and good firm down pressure while loosening.

Jets in the old carb
20231008_104824 by Scott Weckerly, on Flickr

Old jets out and cleaned
20231008_105519 by Scott Weckerly, on Flickr

Example of jet heads that did not have correct size screwdriver head, and not enough down pressure applied. Almost had to drill the one out with the broken tab corners.
20211114_113922 by Scott Weckerly, on Flickr


I bought my jets through Allstate Carbs @ around $6.50 a set about 3 years back.
https://allcarbs.com/product/motorcraft ... 0f83e594a1
20211121_092214 by Scott Weckerly, on Flickr

Another good source is Mikes Carbs
https://www.carburetor-parts.com/

On the jets, I only replaced the two smaller ones. It'll curb idle now, albeit very poorly. Is that third metal thing also a jet I was supposed to change out?

I bent the float a little but I dont think I did it correctly either. I'm getting closer to it working though.

[tgreese]

2150mainjets (430 x 364).jpg

Read the manual.

jetsvspowervalve (552 x 232).jpg

Adjust the float as in the Jiffykit instructions I posted above. Or better, by what the manual says.

The power valve does not affect the idle, if it's in good condition.

[will e]

Power valve by itself, if in good condition, will not affect idle. If the idle vacuum is low enough the PV will open.

OP? What is your idle vacuum?

[89er]

Power valve by itself, if in good condition, will not affect idle. If the idle vacuum is low enough the PV will open.

OP? What is your idle vacuum?

That would be a great thing to know, I’ll try to figure out how to check it.

So I swapped my old float into the new carb instead of adjusting the new one properly and that seems to have helped.

Now it’ll high and curb idle, dies if I try to throw it in gear regardless of idle setting.

Also it looks like there is now an inch of slack in the accelerator pedal cable, which is making the accel pedal not function properly. Is there any way to adjust the accelerator pedal cable?

[candymancan]

The jets are PITA on these carbs, i just rebuild my first carb months ago for my J10, and like guns you gatta have the right size screw driver to not dmg the soft screws.. so i made my own screw driver to fit 100% and i could not get the jets out to clean em, i stripped both down there... So i left em in and sprayed cleaner through em with a straw and they work fine.. But still.

mine in my 76 were 48's. This carb was rebuilt at one point by some company in florida the sticker is still on it. I get like 10-11mpg.

The problem im having is constant hesitation and dying when i step on the gas from a stop. Drives fine though, my vacuum advance is bad so i think that might be it.

Another thing that took me awhile to figure out and i finally got it 5 days ago "prior i had to manually open it everytme i drove taking the air cleaner off and pushing it open", was how to set the high idle and kickdown, and the choke.. My 2100 has the choke behind the carb on top that opens it when its started slightly, but the main choke on mine would never fully open as it warmed up. And the high idle never worked.

Lots of videos out there showing how but theyre all confusing. Finally found one that went into detail and it turns out the choke spring on mine wasnt set so i had to take the black cap off and get the arm in there, and then adjust it cold to closed fully but turn it 1 notch foward to get it fully open when hot. Then adjust that screw to set the high idle when you pump the gas pedal.. Then adjust the rpm with the screw on the bottom. Now i got it all working.

Also had to fix those heater tubes, now i know why they have the metal plate with the heater hose against the choke that also heats the spring up quicker. I adjusted the idle mixture screws when hot, by ear. Adjusting them based on the engine rpm rising or falling. Its basically just 1 1/2 turn to get it right

[tgreese]

PrestoliteDistributor.jpg

Is this what you have?

[candymancan]

Yed ots a prestolight distributor. They make or still sell new vacuum advances on ebay

Ive just been so short on cash its been on the back burner. Mine i know is bad because i can suck air continiously through it. So i suspect that might be the cause of the stumbling/dying unless i feather i the pedal right on a go.

[will e]

If you think it is bad but cannot afford to replace it at this time at least disconnect it and block off to avoid the vacuum leak.

[candymancan]

i did already capped off the port on the carb, if it isnt the vacuum advance causing the stall from a stop to go, what else would it be