Fuel tank skid plate question

[Drewsk]

Quick question about fuel tabk skid plate/supports. The new one on team grand wagoneer says it fits 1980-1991. If I’m looking for one off a parts jeep, will skid plates off that same year range all interchange? For example, I have an 85, and if I find one off a 1980 will it work?

[tgreese]

Yes I believe so. To be certain, you could check the parts books on the Tom Collins site. Any that use the same part number will be the same. Even with a different part number, they may still be compatible. A minor change not affecting fit will change the part number. But if they are the same part number, they are the same.

https://oljeep.com/edge_parts_man.html 81-86 and 87-90.

[Stuka]

The J-Truck skid/tank is different. But as far as I know, waggy and chero skids/tanks are the same for 80+.

If there is a difference, its likely very minor.

[Drewsk]

Perfect, that was what I needed to confirm. Thank you both!

[Drewsk]

Follow up question for after I pick up the new to me skid plate. Are there recommendations for a paint or spray on bed liner/undercoating for it? Paint the inside, undercoat the outside? I don’t want to impact the fitment of the tank too much with undercoating etc. Just want to add an extra layer of protection/rust prevention

[tgreese]

I don't think any coating you apply will affect the fit of the skid plate. There are a couple of straps to keep the tank from sliding around, but otherwise it sets down into the recess in the skid plate. Pretty sure it's not that tight a fit.

You could media blast and prime with a good epoxy primer. Then top coat with a quality 2K automotive paint. That's beyond most owners though - I'd suggest instead whatever MCU-type anti-rust coating you prefer. These sell under several different name: POR-15, Rust Bullet, Miracle Paint, Rust Encapsulator, etc. I like Aluthane. https://www.epoxyproducts.com/aluthane.html I've used all the above except Rust Bullet and IMO Aluthane is the superior product. Encapsulator weathers too fast, POR-15 is ok but not UV resistant, Miracle Paint is too thick and gloppy (I thin it with Xylene but then it does not cover well). Aluthane is thin (lots of solvent - cannot ship to CA), goes on easy, and dries to a hard durable surface. I think you'd need to go to a catalyzed paint (2K) to be any more durable. 2K paints have environmental and safety issues.

I think the main issue with the skid plate is debris gets trapped between the plastic tank and the frame. I'd make a point of blasting out that area every few months with high-pressure water from the hose or a pressure washer. This should prevent significant corrosion from salt-soaked debris. Maybe buy or make a wand for that purpose.

[Stuka]

I would coat it with POR-15 or something that is very durable, and will encapsulate any rust that is on it.

It would be a good idea to coat that section of the frame as its prone to rust for the reason tgreese notes above.

[Srdayflyer]

the frame rail where the fuel tank nestles is a big problem area, i sand blasted my rail area and used por to seal it up also the l/h parking brake cable runs in that area you may want to consider replacing it when the tank is out also the vent valves on the top of the tank

[threepiece]

POR 15 and possibly other products like it can be tricky, I would not use them in areas I cannot see clearly to keep track of what is happening. I have seen on three different vehicles where the metal this product was applied to suffered more rust damage than if nothing at all was applied. It seems that in some places the coating separates, moisture enters, gets trapped and bad things happen.

I tried it once to save time and money and will never again. I went back to sandblasting with course media and epoxy prime.

[threepiece]

i sand blasted my rail area and used por to seal it up

This is what I did to the frame of my J20 fifteen years ago. There is not much POR left on it at the moment.