i have the same cleasner on my wagoneer and it has no issuestgreese wrote: ↑Fri Nov 24, 2023 4:59 pm Bowel is your large intestine. It's the float bowl.
IME it's your air cleaner. These carburetors tend to dry out through the bowl vents quickly even with the factory air cleaner. An open element makes them dry out even faster.
If you keep the filter level and the return on the top, it should not matter you are missing the original steel lines. An electric fuel pump is a common remedy for this problem.
i see what ur saying ya my return line is like 2 feet long anyway i was meaning to cut it back some, but ill cut back the line to the carb to get the filter further in that line instead.sierrablue wrote: ↑Fri Nov 24, 2023 7:12 pm Used to have that problem all the time on mine. Electric fuel pump definitely makes it better just because the engine doesn't have to crank for you to get fuel.
Personally I'd get a longer hose for the return line and cut out some of the fuel hose on the actual functional line, until you can get the fuel filter to sit dead horizontal, as this SHOULD prevent the filter from draining the bowl.
Mine got harder and harder to cold start as the mechanical fuel pump was dying; you might check that; even if it's new if it's had gross gas run through it it might be torn up and you're getting less gas from every pump than it was designed to. When it was getting like that I'd crank it once for a long time without pumping the gas because I knew there was no fuel there anyway, then I'd let the starter cool down, then start spamming the gas as I cranked it again until it caught.
As Tim said could also be the air cleaner, and would easily be solved by an electric fuel pump.
Thank you for making that point! It drives me nuts when I see someone on the 'net suggesting the fuel ran out of the bowl and back into the pump. How did it get past the Needle/seat? How about those carbs with the inlet in the top of the carb!
tgreese wrote: ↑Sat Nov 25, 2023 8:46 am I've made this point before, but nobody believes me. Fuel cannot drain back from the float bowl. The inlet to the bowl is above the level in the bowl. You cannot siphon through free air.
You've got evaporation, leakage through the accelerator pump (you will see this as dripping from the accelerator pump cover), or drainage/leakage through the gasket around the power valve (or a ruptured power valve). No siphoning aka "drain back." The exit through the main jets is also above the level of fuel in the bowl.
If there is fuel in the bowl and you have spark, the engine will start. If you want to experiment, instead of pouring fuel into the venturi to start, try putting a small amount of fuel into the float bowl through one of the bowl vents. If the engine starts, this kinda confirms the bowl was dry. A dry bowl also will not make a pump shot; that's something else to try - you can see the squirt of gas looking down the throat of the carb and twisting the throttle (engine off!).
It is possible for the fuel plumbing (not the bowl!) to drain back. There are reed valves in the fuel pump that should keep furel in the lines and in the fuel filter. If the fuel filter were empty, I'd suspect the fuel pump.
If you cut one of these fuel filters open, you will find a pin hole feeds the return line. It's very simple - the return is metered by the size of the tiny hole.
Gas tank was super clean inside besides the hamd sized patch on top i cut out and welded new steel from rust (outside ) the tank. Thr only rust sediment is in the lines themselves. Which now has had 3 filters and 60 gallons of gas go through em. 400 miles or so ive driven the Jeep now.tgreese wrote: ↑Sun Nov 26, 2023 9:38 am If you have sediment coming from the gas tank, that will get into the fuel pump. The particles will hold the reed valves open and 1) make your drain back worse and 2) send less fuel to the carburetor.
There is a filter sock in the gas tank that should screen out the bigger particles from the tank. It's on the end of the fuel pickup tube.
You could add a second fuel filter between the tank and the fuel pump. That will reduce the pump output some, but normally the pump delivers way more fuel than the engine needs. IME fuel delivery is fine even with the extra filter. You can run with the return line stoppered too, and see if that helps. You could drop the tank and check the filter sock.
Suggest you remove the automatic choke and install a Dorman manual choke kit.
This truck is nearly fifty years old, and considerably older than your GW. Trucks generally lead a hard life before they are retired, and then retired for good reason.
This is exactly what i have to do if it sits for more than 3-4 days.will e wrote: ↑Sun Nov 26, 2023 6:49 am My carbureted 73 mustang has a mechanical fuel pump. If I let it sit too long the fuel evaporates from the carburetor. Cranking the engine does not provide enough fuel/pressure to quickly fill the bowl but if I crank for a long period of time it eventually will fire up. Cranking for a long time is not recommended.
So if it doesn't fire up after pumping the gas once or twice I dribble a bit of fuel into the bowl. This gets the engine to spin fast enough for the fuel pump to supply the carb.
I try to start it at least once a week and when I do it faithfully fires up each time.
The OP mentions in the next to last paragraph of the previous post that the choke system is not working correctly. I believe this is more than likely his main issue.