ntsqd's '71 Wagon

[Yeller]

Cool that you took the time to post that, however, It wasn’t behind registration, just a compliment on your projects. We both have project stalkers

That’s why there’s a copy of the gypsy wagon thread over here, was getting questions about stuff and everyone thought it was helpful and appreciated, CB is protected in off topic

[rocklaurence]

Regarding the Rear Explorer disc brakes, a Rodeo [not sure what years] had the same rear D44 6 lug axles as the FSJs but with Disc brakes. Not a full-floater but an option. I ran one in my Extended wheels base, V8 CJ5, with a Toyota high steer front axle.

[ntsqd]

Thanks! This truck is 5 lug, but that's not insurmountable.

Looked up the parts on Rock Auto to look at availability and get their dims. 1995 Rodeo gets you there. I didn't look into them too hard, but it does seem like there are at least two pieces, the brackets that bolt to the axle housing itself, that will have to come from a wreck. If you're willing to eat the cores all of the rest can be ordered.

The Rodeo brakes have a larger rotor OD (enough so that 15" wheel fitment might be an issue) but a smaller caliper piston. So I set up a spreadsheet just to see if they were offsetting. They're not. The Exploder brakes generate about 18% more torque. I made a bunch of assumptions for expediency, so my actual numbers aren't real but I made the same assumptions for both systems so those numbers are directly comparable.

[Yeller]

And people wonder why I hang out with people with big brains, errr umm geeks, no that’s not the right term either….. I got it, Those that are good at applying education and explaining the thoughts in my head in terms others can understand. That’s what I was looking for!

Thanks Thom for all the smart things you say that let me sleep better at night. I’m just a Neanderthal that builds stuff that usually works

[ntsqd]

This forum really needs a "Like" button. But I know, that likely triggers a complete revamp of the forum, which is a MASSIVE amount of work - not to mention cost. So I'll muddle along w/o it, not like every forum has always had that option.

I should amend what I said above, I didn't look into the p-brake parts far enough to know what can be bought new and what will need to come from a donor.
A qwik search shows that the 2wd Rodeo's got 15" wheels while the 4WD Rodeo's got 16" wheels. I'll make the educated guess that the 2wd's are rear drums (RA had drums listed as well) and the 4wd's got the rear discs. Assuming that my assumption is correct it reinforces the idea that they won't fit inside of a 15" wheel. The ROT for max rotor diameter is 3" smaller than the rim size. Some early "Big Brake" kits got away with fitting a 12-3/16" OD rotor in a 15" wheel, but not all 15" wheels fit over them.
I am curious if Rocklaurence's CJ used 15" wheels or larger.

[rocklaurence]

"I am curious if Rocklaurence's CJ used 15" wheels or larger."
They were 15's. I also took the parking brake cables and ratcheting lever from the Rodeo. It fit great in the CJ and didnt need to be modified to fit.

[ntsqd]

Thank you!

[ntsqd]

Some things happened.

PMGR starter:


About 1/3 the weight of the old high torque starter and actually spins the engine over faster. If you've got a SBC or BBC engine this is the Easy Button for starter problems. At about the cost of a new replacement High Torque starter it was an easy choice for me. They're available in both bolt patterns. This one is for the the 168 tooth flexplate/flywheel with the offset mounting bolts. I used a '97 Chevy 2500 7.4L as the application to order it. Just be sure that you get the correct bolts for them as the old bolts are just about 3 flat washers too long. Ask me how I know this...



I normally prefer Cibie's, but they're getting hard to find or I didn't look in the right places or something. Anyway these are Hella's and I haven't been too impressed with their large rectangular lights, but they're still a huge improvement over sealed beams. They are deliberately not LED. I don't like the looks of those and I'm told that in cold weather they don't generate enough heat to keep the lens' frost-free. I'm undecided on what they'll be, but I typically add a set of Aux lights. Past vehicles the go-to default has been Baja Design's Squadron Pro's, but other things currently have a higher fiscal priority.


Ordered this wheel for the '73 SB-SS and found out after it was too late to return it that is has too much dish for that truck. Fit's nicely in the Wagon. I found the adapter p/n in a thread here somewhere and while it fit, the contact ring for the horn brush wasn't large enough OD. I made a new one from some copper clad PCB project board.
I'm working on, and hope to be able to make work, using the original emblem from the center of the original steering wheel as the horn button.

[Yeller]

Let me know if you need any column parts. Planning on a tilt in my truck over the winter along with a rewire and AC, provided I’m ever home for more than 24 hours every couple of weeks

Like the wheel! Probably upgrade mine at some point. I bought a cheap gaming wheel to try before I spent real money on something I really like lol Dimensionally it’s great, the feel isn’t horrible but not perfect.

[ntsqd]

EDIT: This is the wheel in the pic above: https://www.gtperformance.net/product/3 ... ight-wood/

Decades ago I found a Nardi wood steering wheel in a Thrift store for $15. It was wall art until I got the Valiant (Build Thread) and then I built the parts needed to adapt it. Since then I've come to really like the look and feel of a wood wheel. Particularly in anything Classic.

It had no horn button or anything to fit one, so I made this from some linen micarta that used to be a bearing block in a saw mill and an aluminum rem:



If I could get a svelte column that had tilt and Hi/Lo in the turn signal stalk I'd be really interested in it. The typical GM based column just looks disproportionately large to me. Not to mention that the dash escutcheon won't fit a column with a larger tube.

Speaking of that, I do need to find someone who can scan it as mine is cracked and it appears to be chrome plated plastic?

[ntsqd]

Local clothing company, "Iron & Resin", organized their second "Carburetors & Coffee" event on Labor Day morning. The idea is only two and four wheeled Adventure Vehicles. Well, since that is the plan and I wanted to see what else showed up I got preferred parking.

[Yeller]

Really is a good looking truck with the perfect stance.

[ntsqd]

Minor ARGH! O2 sensor in this vehicle is a weird one. It is a three wire sensor, but is a Weatherpack connector and not the Metripack connector that the few listings for a 3 wire show. And no listings for the '89 1/2t donor show a 3 wire at all, those are all single wire O2's. I'm finding 3 wire sensors by pinging other TBI applications near the donor's vintage or weight class.

[sierrablue]

Ohohoh...I'll probably go the same starter route you did on my Buick. The wires hook up on the solenoid the same right?

My uncle had some weird wiring setup on the '88 with an AMC and TBI so he could run whatever O2 sensor he wanted...it was kind of a mess. I have some idea what pain you're going through.

[ntsqd]

I don't know if the Buick uses it's own starter nose or if it uses a Chevy starter nose. I seem to recall that Pontiac's have their own starter nose(s). If the former there may not be one that fits and works. If the latter then I'd say go for it, you won't be disappointed.

Guy behind the counter at a fairly new NAPA was able to find me the correct O2 sensor. They're a real auto parts store, something that has been lacking in my area for the last couple of years, so they're going to see a lot more of me.
I'll note it here for future ref; application is a '92-'94 C1500 5.7L

[ntsqd]

Dumb question, what size are the rear drive-shaft U-J's? I'm queing parts for the NP241 and I noticed that this rear drive-shaft uses a companion flange (Yeah!!) at the D20 rear output. Thinking the buy the correct flange for the 241's already in place SYE (currently has a Toyota flange on it) so that it hopefully just bolts up.

[Herk]

Buick 350 uses same starter as Chevy small block with the inline bolts.

[ntsqd]

Then something like a '96 Caprice 5.7L should get you the correct PMGR starter for the Chevy 153 tooth flex-plate, no idea what the Buick tooth count is, but if the Buick uses the Chevy starter then it likely doesn't matter.
Note that the starter mounting bolts are different lengths! Neither one may not even be the same length as what is currently in place. They were not for the offset starter nose cone, the proper bolts are about 3/16"-1/4" shorter.

[Yeller]

Unjoints should be 1310 unless it has the crazy Borg Warner sized joints, in that case just start over with 1310 stuff. No need for bigger, 1310 is still stronger than the pinion of the d44.

[ntsqd]

Thank you!

My 241 has a JB SYE kit in it. I'm not finding 1310 companion flanges with what I *think* is the correct spline so I've called them to see if they can help. I've come to really prefer companion flanges over u-bolts or straps.
EDIT: Turns out that JB shipped this kit with the desired flange. That was 10ish years ago and I suspect that it got donated or recycled so I've ordered another one.

Occurred to me that a 70's-late 80's K series front drive-shaft is likely going to be the right length or very, very close.