BJ's 4" lift install, shackle issue

[blueday]

I'm installing a 4" bj's light with all new leaf springs, shocks, steering, etc..

With new deaver front spring going on, are there any tricks to try and get the spring to extend out and reach the shackle and gey the shackle to stay in proper position. See pictures. I'm guessing proper position is vertical based off the factory position?

Bj's does have a pdf you can download for instructions but reads very basic and doest cover this problem.

Thanks for any help!

Ryan

[Yeller]

In my experience the shackles want to invert like you have there with lift springs. I’m assuming you do not have any weight on the axle. With weight the spring will lengthen correcting much of the issue. I’ve found a stop needs to be placed to make the shackle move out when the suspension is drooped out like it appears to be now. When weight is placed does it swing out and forward or does it invert and push up against the frame? If it extends all is good if it doesn’t the shackle will need a stop to make it move the correct direction when it is compressed from the current drooped out position.

[blueday]

I haven't completed the install yet and trying to figure out what to do with this issue. I have tried to jack upnthe axle to simulate weight and it just stays in the same place.

Should i tighten the frame to shackle bolt and try to get the spring to flex to install the shackle to spring bolt, then tighten once on the ground?

Couple of more questions, is this something I'll have to be aware of everytime i jack it up in the wheels (Assuming it rolls forward with weight on it).

Are there any pictures of what the stops look like? In guessing this is some type of generic bump stop looking thing to put in?

Thanks,
Ryan

[Yeller]

This is directly related to the lift spring. You have the bolts in which is the important part. Complete your install before tightening any of the bolts in the spring bushing or shackles, the full weight needs to be sitting on them first. When adding weight if the shackle flips up against the frame use a large pry bar to force them out the forward direction, hopefully you won’t have that issue, if you don’t it will probably not be an issue unless you wheel it.

The stops can be bump stops or just a piece of steel welded in place to keep the shackle from inverting. It usually doesn’t take much. This mod can be completed after the lift is installed.

[SJTD]

Not sure if Yeller was clear but often with a lift spring you have to compress it to install it.

One way is to lay a 2x4 or maybe a 4x4 across the top of the spring, put a floor jack under the axle, wrap a chain over the 2x4 and under the jack and pump up the jack compressing the spring to lengthen it. Then lower the vehicle until you can install the bolt.

I'll reiterate that you don't tighten the bolts until the vehicle's sitting on the wheels so everything's centered. Especially with real rubber bushings.

[OldFarmTruck22]

From what I see there, in your case you will need a couple 4x4 blocks stacked between the frame bottom and the new leaf, just behind the shackle. As you lower the vehicle, the front of the spring will than have to travel FORWARD rather than up.
You may help the process with a large pry bar from the front of the shackle to encourage it to swing forward as weight is put on the spring.

[tgreese]

Possibly helpful - I recall from previous threads the Deaver has good customer service, and has helped others here regarding their springs. You might contact them directly. They are in Santa Ana CA.

[rocklaurence]

the 4x4 trick is in several threads. Ive also heard that once you get the shackle close to popping to the front, a pry bar can be used on the shackle to flip it.

[Yeller]

the 4x4 trick is in several threads. Ive also heard that once you get the shackle close to popping to the front, a pry bar can be used on the shackle to flip it.

I can confirm this works, done it many, many times

[Stuka]

The 4x4 trick is typically required for the rear springs. I am not sure I have seen this with a front 4" spring before. I have seen it once with a 6" spring, but it was not nearly this pronounced. The shackle had a bit of rearward angle, but not folded all the way back.

I am not sure how to do the 4x4 trick up front. There is no body panel to brace off. I suppose you could run a 4x4 length wise 4ft long or so?) across the front end between the frame and the spring. And then once weight is on, if the shackle is still forward, you can take a pry bar and pop it forwards. I have had to do this when a shackle gets flipped back from thitting something.

[devildog80]

Looks to me the springs are just a tad short.

[smashedfoot]

Looks to me the springs are just a tad short.

I was thinking the exact same thing. He should measure each spring along the arch and compare. Looks like 2"-3" shorter but I haven't calibrated my eye yet today so I might be off a bit...

[blueday]

Looks to me the springs are just a tad short.

I have them both on the GW now but either way I'll pull a string just to double check.

[blueday]

So I had a friend drop by and we dropped it down and as expected the shackle went straight up into the frame. After playing with it we were able to jack up the front end and roll out the shackles to where they're mostly straight. We bounced on it a little and you can see the shackles swinging forward a little, not backward to where it'd flip back up.

I'll torque it down this weekend and hopefully it'll stay in place.

These BJ's/deaver springs are pretty expensive. Right now they seem like they are going to be very stiff comparted to the stock springs (supposedly should ride close to stock). Also, very very annoying having to ask and try to look this kind of information up. Their instructions don't mention this problem.

I'll hopefully be able to get the rears done this weekend and then finish up replacing the steering and brakes.

Thanks for the advice here.

Ryan

[OldFarmTruck22]

Although I'd like to see those shackles angled forward a bit ... it's the best you're gonna get with that length shackle.
Glad you got it together.

[Stuka]

Hopefully as they break in they will relax a bit and move the shackle forward some.

Those spring packs use a lot of thin leaves, which should give them a smoother ride than a fewer number of thick leaves. But really need a 1K miles or so on them.

As for tightening them, I would actually drive it around the block before torqueing them down. Cruising at lower speeds with the nut only kind of snug (or even out a bit) will let the spring relax easier. If you torque them down tight, it will hold the springs in that shape.

[j10builder]

I randomly log in and learn something ....which is why I randomly log in. Now I will loosen the shackle bolts before my project rolls the first time. Thanks all

[kjandb]

I wish I would have seen this thread earlier, I just went through the exact same thing. I'm glad the wood block suggestion worked out for you too. You can read up on my experience at the thread below (last 2 pages).

I tried reaching out to BJ's and Ryan basically told me buy new longer shackles. Not what I wanted to hear after spending that kind of money - I'm not very happy with them. If you do reach out to BJ's let me know how it goes. I emailed Deaver a few pictures of my springs and asked them to call me but I haven't heard from them yet. I'm really hoping after 1k miles it'll settle-in and be fine. We will see.

viewtopic.php?t=22646&start=20

[SJTD]

I guess you're supposed to ignore what longer shackles will do to caster. I don't see how they would angle forward anyhoo. What am I missing?

I too think they'll settle a bit.

[Stuka]

Longer shackles would not fix the issue (I think I noted that in the other thread too).

They wood make it a bit harder for the shackle to flip back against the frame. But yeah, negatively impact your steering.

I stand by saying the main leaf is too short. I have installed quite a few lift kits on FSJs. Never seen one where the front shackle wants to flip back