Door hinge compatibility ?

[candymancan]

So i found a 88 Grand Wagoneer. The yesturday. Already pulled my typical parts i sell off. But for my 76 J10 im rebuilding.. i wasnt able to find too much. Between the heat and some guy taking an hour+ of my time helping take a trailer hitch off.

I might need to go back for stuff. For example the aliminum trim plates on my 76 that are on the upper rocker (below the door as its closed) and hold the carpet down the alluminum corroded completly on mine and its missing on the pass side.

I realized when i got home the wagoneers would fit there. Diff style but i dont care.

Also working on my 76s rockers i realized the door on my 76 and 90 look identical nearly. So the rusted out lower sections of my 76 doors.. cant i just cut them out of the 88 i found and weld em onto the 76 ?

The 76 i had to rebuild the entire lower rocker section where the lower door hinge is.. and messing with that i noticed it all looks identical to my grand wagoneer in there.

Would the door hinges swap out ? The 76, the hinges are ok as far as function. But thr Inner parts of them that lay flat. Seem to be fairly rusted out and i cant get on there to clean that. So i figured just swap the door hinges.

Also wondering.. would the floor supports on the 88 be compatible with the 76 ? I need to rebuild a couple cabin floor supports and i figured.. well maybe just cut em out ? I guess i gatta look at my 90 and see. But yea

[threepiece]

Why not swap out the doors? There are some modifications involved with the locks but it would be much easier than grafting the door inner section.

The hinges can be swapped but you should do so in pairs. The degrees of swing are different between the two and there may be subtle differences in the geometry. At some point around 1979 the hinges changed to limit how far the doors will swing open. I usually install early versions of the hinges when I build FSJ’s as they allow better access to the A Pillars When spray painting.

The aluminum “trim plates” you refer to are called sill plates or step plates. I recommend taking with you a sharp awl or pick, a 10-16oz. hammer, a punch or drift, a pair of locking pliers with sharp jaws and a good #2 Phillips screw driver. These screws are often stubborn to remove and it may be tempting to destroy the part without these tools.

The pick is to clean out the Phillips cavity as they are often packed hard with rust and debris. Use the hammer and punch to knock the screw head side to side a few times if the screw doesn’t cooperate. If the Phillips driver won’t engage try using the pliers either laying flat to the plate or perpendicular to it. I have removed nearly 100 of these plates in the past and have used one or more of these techniques successfully.

[threepiece]

Why not swap out the doors? There are some modifications involved with the locks but it would be much easier than grafting the door inner section. Let me know if you want some details on how to do this.

The hinges can be swapped but you should do so in pairs. The degrees of swing are different between the two and there may be subtle differences in the geometry. At some point around 1979 the hinges changed to limit how far the doors will swing open. I usually install early versions of the hinges when I build FSJ’s as they allow better access to the A Pillars When spray painting.

The aluminum “trim plates” you refer to are called sill plates or step plates. I recommend taking with you a sharp awl or pick, a 10-16oz. hammer, a punch or drift, a pair of locking pliers with sharp jaws and a good #2 Phillips screw driver. These screws are often stubborn to remove and it may be tempting to destroy the part without these tools.

The pick is to clean out the Phillips cavity as they are often packed hard with rust and debris. Use the hammer and punch to knock the screw head side to side a few times if the screw doesn’t cooperate. If the Phillips driver won’t engage try using the pliers either laying flat to the plate or perpendicular to it. I have removed nearly 100 of these plates in the past and have used one or more of these techniques successfully.

[candymancan]

Why not swap out the doors? There are some modifications involved with the locks but it would be much easier than grafting the door inner section.

The hinges can be swapped but you should do so in pairs. The degrees of swing are different between the two and there may be subtle differences in the geometry. At some point around 1979 the hinges changed to limit how far the doors will swing open. I usually install early versions of the hinges when I build FSJ’s as they allow better access to the A Pillars When spray painting.

The aluminum “trim plates” you refer to are called sill plates or step plates. I recommend taking with you a sharp awl or pick, a 10-16oz. hammer, a punch or drift, a pair of locking pliers with sharp jaws and a good #2 Phillips screw driver. These screws are often stubborn to remove and it may be tempting to destroy the part without these tools.

The pick is to clean out the Phillips cavity as they are often packed hard with rust and debris. Use the hammer and punch to knock the screw head side to side a few times if the screw doesn’t cooperate. If the Phillips driver won’t engage try using the pliers either laying flat to the plate or perpendicular to it. I have removed nearly 100 of these plates in the past and have used one or more of these techniques successfully.

Well i dont wanna swap the doors because this 88gw Jeep is silver.. Mine is pin striped and a black 2 inch line in the center. Blue on top and white down. Itd look strange.. Id have to repaint the whole Jeep then tbh and i wanna keep this old paint job on it.. Its just the lower section on the front corner that you dont see that rusted out on the passenger door.

Oh i didnt realize the door hinges swung open more.. Now that you mentioned it.. I guess i do realize the 76 doors swing way out lol.

I found some pics of a 91s floor being done and the floor support i guess it identical to the 76.. even the part the body mount square nut is in is the same.

That section is rusted completely on the 76.. as is the short like 8 inch section from the inner rocker to that main floor support.

Thats good so i guess i can just cut it outa the 88 for both sides.. versus fabbing it.

[candymancan]

Is this area (removable) somehow ? Or do i gatta jist cut out what i need. The bottom portion is ok.. but the top is risted out on my J10. I dont see any obvious way to just remove this peice on my 90 or j10.. So i assume i gatta cut this out on the 88 in the jy.. and weld it onto the j10 ?

[sierrablue]

Is this area (removable) somehow ? Or do i gatta jist cut out what i need. The bottom portion is ok.. but the top is risted out on my J10. I dont see any obvious way to just remove this peice on my 90 or j10.. So i assume i gatta cut this out on the 88 in the jy.. and weld it onto the j10 ?

Only way to remove it is the entire front valence there. Like 6 bolts up top (also hold the grille in), as well as a big old row of them underneath that also hold the fender braces and such. I suspect the lower section of the piece those bolts go into (the radiator support) is rusted out on your J10 too, in which case it might be worth it to take off the bumper/fenders/accessories from that '88 and just take the whole valence/radiator support assembly. Then you could do a late model grille swap if you wanted to, too

[candymancan]

Ahh heck no i dont lile the late model grills.. even removed it on my 90.

I lile the razor grille. Its diff from the muscle on mine and that last years grill is hideous lol.

My radiator support and everything under is fine. Its just this upper lip.

Well tomorrow is gonna be 90+ smokey thanks to canada.. red air quality and humid.. dont think ima unbolt all that. Ill jist remove the grill and turn signals and cut off what i need and tack weld it on mine. Grind paint etc. I gatta get a lot of other parts on the 88 and i dont wanna be out there forever.

Was hoping it poped off easy with a few bolts. Hah

[sierrablue]

Yeah you can also grind the pinch welds behind the bumper and just pull the top bolts to get that front piece out. Personally I wouldn't cut it out up top because I'd never get it ground back down so I was happy with how it looked. Or at least cut it back behind the grille, unless you're planning to go to the rhino grille.

Just what I would do; entirely up to you obv.