1970 Gladiator Restomod

[tgreese]

Huh. I looked up "radiator grommets" aka radiator bushings and they are a thing in themselves. Pretty expensive new for what they are, ca $5-8 each. Presume you picked these from a wreck somewhere, since they look used. Something to look for at the pick-and-pull.

This fits in with what I wrote above about accumulated stress. Aluminum accumulates stress too; that's why they scrap airliners after a fixed number of pressure cycles.

AlohaAirFuselageFailure (600 x 316).jpg

[SJTD]

Looks kind funny with the door open. Like, why bother?

[Yeller]

I had the them in my "keep this box" from vehicles that I've scrapped, so I guess you could say I got them from a salvage The large one like I have in my hand is actually hard to get, they are a dealer/salvage only item for GM and Dodge, at least that my searching found, I wanted another one for the top. The one on top is new and for a Honda, it doesn't have near the thickness of the rubber but the same size hole for the stud, it is good enough.

Funny, a been discussing that old Aloha flight recently with the 737max door blowing off. Looked even funnier with the stairs rolled up to it LOL

[Yeller]

Boring stuff…. 7 quarts of oil and filter change a long with a long over due oil change in the T-case. Advance Adapters has recommended to me all sorts of lubricants for an Atlas, 10w-30, 20w-50 or 50w motor oils to synchromesh and 90wt, the only consistency was synthetic. They seem as of late to have settled on 75w80 GL4, transmission fluid, for several years it’s what they have been providing with new units. That oil tends to be pricy when marketed for cars/pickups, seen as high as $50/qt. But if your willing to buy at least a gallon it is then marketed to the heavy duty truck crowd, where their units hold many gallons of the stuff. Found this for $36 per gallon, should get me buy for another couple of years. The T-case holds 2 quarts.

The oil change was past due as well, had 7500 miles on it, was still dark amber on the dipstick and still full with no adds, couldn’t be happier with my 300,000 mile motor, everything I’ve checked has been still within factory spec.

[Yeller]

Most of us have been here….. At some point in its history someone replaced the dash pad with one from a much newer truck/wagon. Well it had a massive sag in the middle making the radio spot useless and just looked saggy and tired. My plan since the beginning has been to pull it and paint the dash and put some plastic plugs in the attachment holes, simple….. well…. getting ready to do the AC install and pulled the dash pad, and this is what I found

Anyone have any bright ideas other than sucking it up and metal working the dash?

[ntsqd]

Doodle the holes shut against a piece of copper?

[SJTD]

Wow! Looks like two guys and a monkey tried to put the pad on.

I welded mine but I had the dash out. Yours I was thinking maybe I'd glue a backer on with glass-filled body filler but I dunno. I guess maybe some I'd fill as suggested above, bigger ones I'd join together with a file and make a plug. Got TIG?

[Yeller]

Of course got TIG, a really nice one

If it was out, without question, weld everything up and smooth it out. Really want to keep my preferred daily driver on the road as much as possible. If I pull the dash the can-o-worms is open, It will stay closed

[Yeller]

Found some trinkets in the passenger defrost duct. Find out in a few days if there are more on the other side

[Harry Dawg]

That's a lucky talisman.

Keep it in there to prevent mechanical issues.

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[SJTD]

It's a sign! Use that can opener to make plugs from.

Though maybe you should keep it like Harry says. Getting to when younger folks don't even know what the pointy end was for.

[Yeller]

The can opener made its way to the “kitchen in a box” we using for our camping trips. Mrs Yeller wanted the bracelet, not sure why but she did. Need to get the other side opened up and see what treasures it is holding.

[Yeller]

Something is happening

[Yeller]

AC is happening

While I’m in it this far the electrical is getting some TLC, steering column is getting replaced and painting the dash. Slowly picking away at stuff. Insulating the firewall and cowl area with a layer of dynamat type product and 2 layers of 6mm foam. Truck should be quieter and easy to cool and heat.

[Yeller]

Slow and steady…..

[Yeller]

Waiting time, I’m not good at that

[ntsqd]

God, Please grant me Patience.


Right Now



Neither am I. What are we waiting for, paint to dry?

On another note, do you think that the side or bottom version of the HVAC system would fit more out of the way?

[Yeller]

Yes paint drying is like watching grass grow

Yes ordering over I would do the bottom outlet and shift it over 1 to 1-1/2” to the right. The bottom outlet is low enough to be below the battery. It’s all going back together now….. slow and steady

Also need more defrost ducting tube. The only area with enough real estate to make all of that fit is on the passenger side and there isn’t enough of the 2-1/2” hose.

[Yeller]

Progress!

Tilt column in, truck wiring is complete, everything works, ac is almost done inside, dash is going back together. Under the hood still have all of the plumbing to install, compressor and still need to build a steering shaft. Well on the way to being completed.

[Yeller]

Who needs a $300 steering shaft? $26 replacement for a heep XJ, it has the right ends for the column and box. Weld in a $15 piece of 3/4” double d shaft to get it to the right length and bolt it in. $41 and done.