88 GW (The 10 year build LOL)

[j20owner]

Good price for head work!

[ClovisMan]

Today I installed the Oil Pick-up tube and Canton Oil Pan Studs. They are shiny!


I also installed the fresh new cylinder heads. I used Fel-Pro gaskets. Not sure if they required the copper spray, but I did it anyway.


Now I have a LONG Block!

[FSJ Guy]

I used the copper spray on my gaskets. Everything looks REALLY nice!!!

Oil pan stud kit was a smart choice.

[ClovisMan]

I closed on my house last week and now the GW is finally coming home after 2 1/2 years in a storage lot!

[Road Trip]

Congrats! Now you can work on it any time you want.

[ClovisMan]

Congrats! Now you can work on it any time you want.

Yes, things should move along A LOT faster now. I'm going to modify my wife's Honey-Do list on the fridge....
1.Take out the trash
<<<<Install gas tank in GW
2. Paint the bathroom
<<<<Stab engine/Tranny/TC
3. Hang shelving in the Laundry room
<<<<Install Detroit locker

LOL

[Road Trip]

Yeah, good luck with that!

[ClovisMan]

Prepping to get old engine out. It's Texas. We wait until we know for sure that we will have atleast 10 days in a row of 100 degree temps before working on anything.


Also, gotta make sure you have wasps, scorpions, blazing sun, rocks, sticker burrs, and fire ants. Wouldn't be wrenchin' without them!

[jaber]

Man, add centipedes and I'd feel at home.

[carnuck]

Tweakers around here. As soon as you turn your back, they're right in there trying to take anything that's not nailed down!

[nester]

Looking good!

[ClovisMan]

Well...it's out. Now what?

[jaber]

Now the money flies...

[COLORADOCRAWLER]

Are those 35's? If so, what type of lift setup are you running? When I am finished with the Vortec swap I'm on to suspension and axles. The practical family of 4 dad in me says "I should just go with 33's and make it a nice trail/hunting/fishing/bouncing around in the mountains rig", but the I know what kind of wheeling I like to do in the YJ guy in me is thinking: "35's and one tons would be about right for such a long rig". I want to get plenty of clearance for mild/moderate rock crawling duty, but don't want to hack at the fenders too much. I want to maintain a "stock" looking body at a glance. You have achieved the look I am going for and I would appreciate you dropping some knowledge on me about your lift. Thanks!

[ClovisMan]

Are those 35's? If so, what type of lift setup are you running? When I am finished with the Vortec swap I'm on to suspension and axles. The practical family of 4 dad in me says "I should just go with 33's and make it a nice trail/hunting/fishing/bouncing around in the mountains rig", but the I know what kind of wheeling I like to do in the YJ guy in me is thinking: "35's and one tons would be about right for such a long rig". I want to get plenty of clearance for mild/moderate rock crawling duty, but don't want to hack at the fenders too much. I want to maintain a "stock" looking body at a glance. You have achieved the look I am going for and I would appreciate you dropping some knowledge on me about your lift. Thanks!

They are Military OZ 36 inch tires. Probably more of a 35 though. Right now I am sitting on full-width axles (Ford HP Dana 44 and a GM 14bolt) I have factory springs with 2 inch full-length AAL's from Rusty's Offroad and GM shackles that add another 3/4 to an inch lift. If you have a GW, then you will have to hack the rear fenders quite a bit.

[ClovisMan]

So, I've been stuck in the garage this evening because of a drizzle and I figured I might as well assemble some AMC 360 fun. I got to the rocker arms and there is definite wear in the pocket where the pushrods sit. So question...are there some aftermarket direct bolt-down rockers that are cheaper than stock replacements @ $15.04 a pair ($120.00 or so)? I looked on Summit and it appears that most require the addition of screw in studs.

Also, what all holes on this Edelbrock intake can I plug? I plan on running mani-vac to the Brake Booster and the Distributor, but that's about it. I will have no emissions doodads. So I'm thinking I can plug them all except for the temp sensor hole and the vacuum port on the rear.

Oh, and I included the obligatory pic.

[thehazard]

Depends on the carb. You need manifold vac for the pcv in the back and so you can use your heater controls. I swapped some of the hardware from my old manifold on to the new one and used it. If you are using an edelbrock you can use the rear port but not with the holley. The carb bowl sticks out to much and you have to plug it. There is a smaller port back there also which is for the heater controls/vacuum reservoir. I have been running manifold vac on my 81 360 for a couple of months now and I think I am going to run it back to ported. It keeps my idle higher and I have felt it at the pump...or it could be the fact I cant keep my foot out of it. I also know a holley only has two manifold ports and one ported but I dont know about the edelbrock.

[Stuka]

Are you getting rid of the vapor canister then? I would highly advise you keep that. It does not hurt power or anything like that, but does make your system work better and be safer.

[ClovisMan]

Been a while since I've updated this. I finally have my shop built and the Jeep was pushed in there last week. Yeah, now I don't have to lay in stickers, ants, and scorpions. Now I need to have electricity run so I can atleast have a fan. I painted the engine bay removed all the extra loose wires and found a broken heater vacuum ball that has now been replaced. I plan on using Durabak or the like on the exterior. Still debating if I am going to roll it on or spray it. Some folks said they had good results spraying it on using a texture spray gun from Harbor Freight. I need to run the wiring for my electric fuel pump and replace some of the worn factory wiring and then I can drop the engine in tranny in place and make vroom vroom noises until next year when I update this thread again. LOL

JeepShop.jpg

[ClovisMan]

No Mo Wood! So what would you do with the holes left by the pop rivets? Weld, cover with fiber-strand, nothing at all? I'm going to be bedlining the exterior with Durabak so bodywork really doesn't have to be spectacular. I wonder if the bedliner material is thick enough to fill the holes without any patching. Anyone rolled their own Herculiner or the like before?

DeWood.jpg