Greetings from East Tennessee! - 1990 Grand Wagoneer - Theodore - Build Thread

[devildog80]

Ok.....I have an empty hole all the way to the left along bottom of dash, so maybe that is where I should have a switch.

You can just see it left of the rear window switch, and came to me like this, but schematic as I said does not show a switch. I will look again.
20220515_160957 by Scott Weckerly, on Flickr

Item #20 looks like it should be a rocker switch, so it would not fit in the round hole I have showing. Looks like I need to install my own switch to isolate these, but do not have them on the truck and no reading on pigtails with lights on. Need to chase it down.
Thanks
TSM Dash switches by Scott Weckerly, on Flickr

[Theodore]

Not sure on that; appears the dash layout is different. Mine is just to the right of the steering column. In this pic, it’s lit up.

[letank]

What a wealth of resources, cheers to your outstanding documentation. I need to polish my bumpers!

As for the fog light switch on the 85 and older years, it was mounted under the AC duct on the driver side.

[Theodore]

What a wealth of resources, cheers to your outstanding documentation. I need to polish my bumpers!

Thanks, letank - the forum has been such a help to us; thought I’d try to return the favor, plus, is fun to scroll back thru every once in a while & remember all the things learned & accomplished;

On the bumper polishing, if you use woody wax, make sure you use the sealer afterwards; I didn’t & am starting to see milkiness return. Is still 10x better, but the sealer would’ve preserved the shine. Am planning on doing it again in the spring & seal.

Am in a holding pattern collecting parts in prep for paint this winter. Am planning to start stripping Woodgrain & chrome in a couple weeks.

[sierrablue]

I dunno how much you wax it, but you could just make sure you brush up polishing the bumper, and then rewax it, every time you wax the paint such.

Also, after having had the '88, I can smell the old carpet/rotten interior before you replaced it from here lol.

[Theodore]

I dunno how much you wax it, but you could just make sure you brush up polishing the bumper, and then rewax it, every time you wax the paint such.

Also, after having had the '88, I can smell the old carpet/rotten interior before you replaced it from here lol.

Lol - Unbelievably, the carpet didn't stink - though it looked terrible; have never waxed it; horizontal surfaces have no clear left & is as rough as sandpaper. Looking forward paint.

[sierrablue]

Wow, that's awesome that it didn't smell!

On the '88, it wasn't perfect, but where the clear is coming off you can use a little aluminum polish to shine up the paint, and then wax it to keep it that way. This also works pretty well at getting rusty stains out of the paint if you have any of those.

[Theodore]

Wow, that's awesome that it didn't smell!

On the '88, it wasn't perfect, but where the clear is coming off you can use a little aluminum polish to shine up the paint, and then wax it to keep it that way. This also works pretty well at getting rusty stains out of the paint if you have any of those.

Thanks for the pointer; hadn’t heard the aluminum polish hint. A few years ago, I thought about using linseed oil to protect it til we got to paint & was concerned about screwing up the paint & not being able to paint it with stripping & increasing the cost of the paint job, so I just left it and wash a couple times per year.

[Theodore]

Intake Manifold Gasket replacement - Demolition

Am getting braver the more time goes by. Got together with a neighborhood friend yesterday to start the quest to replace the intake manifold gasket; had tripped across a vintage Snap-On radiator tester a few months ago on eBay, and used it to test & find multiple intake coolant leaks on the passenger side. Have noticed losing a slight bit of coolant, and occasional roving idle at cold start - reminiscent of vacuum leaks i'd had a year or so ago; Along with oil coming up thru the bolts. We noticed a few things as dug in:

• Over 1/2 of the intake bolts were loose
• Someone had gone crazy with RTV
• Most of the RTV had squeezed out - looked like the intake had been quickly torqued down before allowing it to cure somewhat
• quite a few valve cover bolts were loose; despite having torqued them down in the past. Am planning on replacing them & installing w/blue loctite

Before we started:


Pic of throttle & kick-down linkage:


Am looking forward to getting rid of the rubber fuel lines; picked up a set of hard fuel lines a year or so ago, but need to take a trip to the junkyard to pilfer mounting hardware from a 1990's era Chevrolet 1500; it'll probably be next year before i get that done.

With lung removed:


Time for cleaning: Can see evidence of leak - one to left of oil filler tube; there's another at the back at cylinder 8.


Valley Pan Out:


Got everything cleaned up before the ball game, and made a mental list of parts to acquire. Am now waiting on parts. Hopefully, will have them by mid-week & will have the GW back on the road for the weekend.

Ordered:

• Edelbrock Intake Manifold Bolts - EDL-8534 - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-8534
• Trans-Dapt Throttle Body to Carbureted Manifold Adapter 2210 - TRD-2210 - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-2210
• Summit Carburetor Throttle Lever Stud - SUM-G1427 - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1427
• Valve Cover Bolts - J4005731 - https://teamgrandwagoneer.com/valve-cov ... 1974-1991/

Noticed that the throttle body is installed at the front of the intake as dictated by the intake adapter; adapter was installed with studs that are too long; so, decided to get a replacement & clean things up, and get rid of hardware store fasteners. Same thing for the throttle lever.

Looking forward to getting things back together. Would love to find a nice set of original valve covers to replace the Craigslist rebuild versions, but haven't yet come across a set that doesn't require significant rust repair.

[tgreese]

You might advertise a swap for your chromies on the parts for sale forum, or maybe someone has some good ones to sell. I have been pleasantly surprised by what's offered when I need parts and advertise there. Maybe contact Rick Jones SC/397 at IFSJA and see if he has some or knows of some - he builds these engines.

Question - how do you attach your throttle cable to the throttle body when there's no ball stud?

[Theodore]

You might advertise a swap for your chromies on the parts for sale forum, or maybe someone has some good ones to sell. I have been pleasantly surprised by what's offered when I need parts and advertise there. Maybe contact Rick Jones SC/397 at IFSJA and see if he has some or knows of some - he builds these engines.

Question - how do you attach your throttle cable to the throttle body when there's no ball stud?

Hey, tgreese - thanks for the suggestion; had so many things going on, i hadn't thought of that.

On the connections, the kickdown cable connects to the ball; and the throttle cable connects via a bolt - see pic. Am assuming that the cruise control cable connects where i've shown in the pic; i've not attempted it, as the ball chain isn't long enough & cruise control has been a priority to date.

[tgreese]

Thanks for the reply. Have you had this connected? I don't understand how the throttle cable would connect.

throttlecabledetail.png

As I understand it, this stud accepts a loop on the end of the throttle cable. The groove accepts a clip, typically an "e" clip.

The TBI cable looks like this -

TBIthrottlecable (419 x 247).jpg

The throttle cable you have connects to a ball end like this:

ballstud.png

How do you deal with this?

[Theodore]

Am thinking i may have my terms mixed up; the cable you've pointed to w/the arrow connects to a ball, of sorts, & positively clicks - was difficult to pop off. The Chevy ball is made into the black piece;

Am thinking it's the kickdown cable that i have attached via the silver bolt. Apologies for the confusion.

[tgreese]

Not interested in the kickdown linkage. I only wonder about the throttle cable.

The original throttle cable goes over a ball stud - call the Jeep cable end a ball socket. If the ball socket cable fits over the post in the yellow circle, that's your answer. That post is not a ball stud, and is not meant to accept a ball socket.

[Theodore]

Not interested in the kickdown linkage. I only wonder about the throttle cable.

The original throttle cable goes over a ball stud - call the Jeep cable end a ball socket. If the ball socket cable fits over the post in the yellow circle, that's your answer. That post is not a ball stud, and is not meant to accept a ball socket.

Gotcha. It's always been connected that way; Googling, as a result of this conversation, i see quite a few people asking about how to connect/adapt the GM linkage w/many saying they connected as-is; others asking about adapting to Lokar; & others mentioning converting to Ball. Having searched & read thru many posts, i only see one post from Bill Hamilton on BinderPlanet that shows the conversion to Ball having been done:

Here's what the GM TBI linkage looks like; there's a rivet on the back, but i'm not sure whether only the stud is riveted, or the entire raised area is. Am concerned about ruining the linkage plate, if i just cut off & drill the stud.


Here's a pic i snipped from BinderPlanet's "START HERE" thread in the Fuel Injection forum. The linkage shape is different & doesn't have the raised area.


Will go ahead & order the linkage ball kit you linked to & see what it takes make the jump. Thanks for bringing this up - never realized there was an issue.

[tgreese]

Thanks for following up on this. I ask because I have a similar throttle body I want to use for my J20.

I ordered this GM cable and plan to combine it with the existing cable using a cable stop.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C ... le_o00_s00

Dorman makes a few different sizes of these cable stops: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000COCPZW/

The GM cable is about 25" in length, and the J20 cable is 16". I have not ordered the cable stops yet because I want to measure the diameter of the GM cable when it arrives. I also need to confirm that the GM cable will fit in the Jeep sheath. In theory I should be able to use the Jeep sheath with the GM core and the end will fit the throttle body arm.

If this works, it should be a tidier solution than drilling out the throttle body and installing a ball stud.

[Theodore]

Thanks for following up on this. I ask because I have a similar throttle body I want to use for my J20.

I ordered this GM cable and plan to combine it with the existing cable using a cable stop.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C ... le_o00_s00

Dorman makes a few different sizes of these cable stops: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000COCPZW/

The GM cable is about 25" in length, and the J20 cable is 16". I have not ordered the cable stops yet because I want to measure the diameter of the GM cable when it arrives. I also need to confirm that the GM cable will fit in the Jeep sheath. In theory I should be able to use the Jeep sheath with the GM core and the end will fit the throttle body arm.

If this works, it should be a tidier solution than drilling out the throttle body and installing a ball stud.

ah, got it. Closest i've gotten to the pic, is a post from Bill_USN1 several years ago on fsjnetwork.com somewhere, where he mentions grinding off the 'big' side & popping it out vs. grinding off the rivet - that the part is inset on the rivet side. Read it earlier this morning, after my previous post; but, have not been able to find it again.

Good luck & i'll post an update here, once i have parts in hand.

[Theodore]

Throttle Linkage conversion to ball from standard GM

Hey, tgreese - bit the bullet & took advantage of waking early this morning to make the throttle linkage change to ball. Took a Dremel cut-off wheel & grinding sleeve to it.

Here's the progression:

Before:


Cut off & ground to see the pin edge:


Popped out w/Punch:


After - Rough fit:


Ball: Note the collar just below the hex - it's slightly smaller than the hole on the linkage; Didn't think to measure; am headed to the hardware after work to find a suitable washer.

[Theodore]

Intake Manifold - Re-installation

Picked up new Fel-Pro valley pan gasket, Edelbrock Intake Bolts, used Permatex Ultra-Gray, & Gasgacinch to put things back together, along with a new throttle body spacer from Transdapt & gaskets. Followed Edelbrock’s instructions for Performer Intake installation. Will finish things up tomorrow.

Installed; bolts torqued to 25ft.lbs.


Put to bed for the night

[Theodore]

Intake Manifold Gasket Installation - Finishing Up

As part of the re-installation, i decided to continue to clean things up & swap out the DIY looking front-mount TBI spacer for a center-mount commercial one that would look nicer.

Here's the DIY-looking TBI spacer: (If anyone wants it, for the cost of shipping - PM me.)


Replaced with a center-mount TBI spacer from Trans-Dapt.


Part Numbers & Links:
Trans-Dapt Throttle Body to Carbeurated Manifold Adapters #2210
Trans-Dapt Carbeurator Gasket #2069

Once getting the spacer & throttle body installed, i was so excited to get things together, i neglected to take pictures until i had the air cleaner back on.

After improving the throttle linkage w/a ball, i finally got to try the 1/4" Carb Throttle Stud that i'd mentioned earlier in the post to try to improve the operation & looks of the kickdown linkage, and get rid of the hardware store bolts. The Summit 1/4" Carb Throttle Stud did the trick; which also had the clip to secure the linkage cleanly.

Part Number & Link:
Summit 1/4" Carb Throttle Linkage - SUM-G1427


Kickdown linkage before - with hardware store bolt:


After - Carb Stud installed on the throttle lever:


Oil change: I've had the parts & the ToDo list item for a couple of years to swap the oil filter connector from 13/16-16 to 3/4-16, to enable using a FL-1A size filter & simplify hunting for filters. While the body of our GW is a 1990, the engine is an 1986 or older given the threading. Years ago, at first oil change, i had to make 3 trips to the parts store: 1) to get a 1990 filter that wouldn't screw on; 2) had the counter guy look up filters going back 5 years & bought the other 2 options; 3) return the one that wouldn't fit to the store... ugh.

Now, we've switched from the small diameter Wix 51522 13/16-16 thread filter, to the larger Wix 51515 3/4-16 filter that's the size of the Purolator FL-1A. Pictured is the old filter connector that was removed. The 3/4-16 filter connector (Part# JEP53007563AB) came from EXT OffRoad http://www.extoffroad.com.


-------------------------------------------
Tripped across this post from PHAT69AMX on theamcforum.com that lays out the oil filter thread sizes by year, and cut/pasted it here. https://theamcforum.com/forum/what-oil- ... page2.html

/QUOTE/
This from 1994 Fram full-line catalog, did my best to be error free, but no guarantees.

AMC V8 Oil Filter 1965-91

PH16 = FRAM 1991 JEEP 360
PH3985 = FRAM 1990-87 JEEP 360
PH3675 = FRAM 1986-83 JEEP 360
PH25 = FRAM 1982-81 JEEP 360
PH25 = FRAM 1980-74 AMC/JEEP V8 or
PH11 = FRAM 1980-74 AMC/JEEP V8
PH11 = FRAM 1973-65 AMC/JEEP V8

PH16 = 3-21/32 OD X 3-11/16 HT X 3/4-16 STRAIGHT THREAD
PH3985 = 3-11/16 OD X 3-11/16 HT X 20mm X 1.5mm THREAD
PH3675 = 3 OD X 4-3/32 HT X 13/16-16 STRAIGHT THREAD
PH25 = 3-51/64 OD X 4 HT X 13/16-16 STRAIGHT THREAD
PH11 = 3-5/8 OD X 5-9/64 HT X 13/16-16 STRAIGHT THREAD

/UNQUOTE/
-------------------------------------------

Everything back together & running - no leaks after heat cycling it twice to purge air from cooling system.


After a test drive around the block, i found that i needed to adjust the kickdown linkage as the shifts were not right, due to having changed the TBI spacer. Having changed from a front-mount TBI spacer to a center-mount, this was expected. The thing i didn't expect is the gas pedal is now much easier to press & lower in the footwell, which is a nice benefit.

Kickdown-linkage before:


After:


Noticed now, that i have some belt squealing; believe it's the alternator belts; am running Gates 7512's, but am hitting the stop & can't adjust any further. Am already running a size smaller than original, but the pulley was changed by the shop that rebuilt the alternator. Am going to go down another size to a 7508 - think this will do the trick.

Slightly off-topic, but fun. Have been continuing to collect vintage tools & have found a couple nice ones to mention:

1) Alemite GAT Grease Gun Model 6637: picked up on eBay. Appears to be WWII-vintage; while researching whether to buy it or not, i tripped across a manual from the from the U.S. War Department in April, 1944 that mentions an Alemite GAT Grease Gun being included as part of original equipment.
"Operation & Maintenance & Parts Manual for a Koehring Excavator Model 304"
Pretty cool. In talking to seller, it came from his family farm in Minnesota. Loaded it with Lucas Red & Tacky this morning & it works!



2) Snap-On Cooling System Tester: also, eBay. Liked it due to its vintage (1985) being similar to the Jeep. I used it a couple months back to find the intake manifold coolant leak; found that the front & back passenger side corners were leaking, but was just slight enough that the engine heat was evaporating it.




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