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Dynamat, Fatmat and Rattletrap insulation
Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 7:31 pm
by custom76
All of these come 40 mil and 80 mil thick, eBay pics show both contour well. Thinking thicker is better for doors and passenger floors, maybe the roof, but concerned thicker may not be best in cargo area where I plan to install one of BJ’s repro vinyl mats over it.
Has anyone used either like this and did the pattern register hold up long term?
Does the self adhesive stay on the roof long term?
Is there any real difference between these brands?
BJ’s mat quality? Others?
Thx for looking.
Re: Dynamat, Fatmat and Rattletrap insulation
Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 7:58 pm
by Cecil14
I put fatmat in my truck, I don't remember exactly which one, it's probably the thinner one. It has stuck very well to the floor and ceiling, but didn't stick well to the back wall. I don't think I cleaned the wall enough, honestly. It made a massive difference in noise and temperature inside the truck, though.
When I do something again, I think I'm going to use LizardSkin spray on instead of any stick on stuff.
aa
Re: Dynamat, Fatmat and Rattletrap insulation
Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2018 3:04 am
by tgreese
This class of stuff looks like the bituminous membrane used for waterproofing on windows and roofs. Anyone compare?
Re: Dynamat, Fatmat and Rattletrap insulation
Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2018 8:45 am
by Chubbinius
I used Kilmat 80mil on the floor from firewall to tailgate. I used a wooden seam roller to smooth it down and form it into/over the countours. You do have to take your time as the foil lining will occasionally tear press it along a countours too quickly or forcefully (leaving the sticky butyl rubber open to put a knee or hand in).
Overall it went in easily and without much fuss. Seems to have benefitted both noise reduction and some of the road and drive train heat. (Plus it's more affordable than the Dynamat). It seems to be holding the shape of the cargo area quite well. I put the mass backed replacement carpet over it as well.
Re: Dynamat, Fatmat and Rattletrap insulation
Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2018 8:48 am
by rocklaurence
tgreese wrote:This class of stuff looks like the bituminous membrane used for waterproofing on windows and roofs. Anyone compare?
Really, that is what I used on my J20 floor. Got it from Lowes and applied it over Bedliner in the cab. Does it work? IDK
Re: Dynamat, Fatmat and Rattletrap insulation
Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2018 5:32 pm
by custom76
Cecil14 wrote:I put fatmat in my truck, I don't remember exactly which one, it's probably the thinner one. It has stuck very well to the floor and ceiling, but didn't stick well to the back wall. I don't think I cleaned the wall enough, honestly. It made a massive difference in noise and temperature inside the truck, though.
When I do something again, I think I'm going to use LizardSkin spray on instead of any stick on stuff.
Lizard skin might be a great choice for inside the door skins if doesn’t run when applied, will have to investigate that.
aa
Re: Dynamat, Fatmat and Rattletrap insulation
Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2018 7:30 pm
by custom76
Chubbinius wrote:I used Kilmat 80mil on the floor from firewall to tailgate. I used a wooden seam roller to smooth it down and form it into/over the countours. You do have to take your time as the foil lining will occasionally tear press it along a countours too quickly or forcefully (leaving the sticky butyl rubber open to put a knee or hand in).
Overall it went in easily and without much fuss. Seems to have benefitted both noise reduction and some of the road and drive train heat. (Plus it's more affordable than the Dynamat). It seems to be holding the shape of the cargo area quite well. I put the mass backed replacement carpet over it as well.
I checked this out and like the fact it uses butyl rubber as the adhesive and u r right, it’s cheaper.
Did you do your roof? looks like it would likely stay there Ok.
Re: Dynamat, Fatmat and Rattletrap insulation
Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2018 1:01 am
by men in black
I used one layer of rattle trap on the floor and two layers on the trans hump and rear wheel wells almost 100 sf
Re: Dynamat, Fatmat and Rattletrap insulation
Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2018 8:02 am
by Chubbinius
custom76 wrote:
I checked this out and like the fact it uses butyl rubber as the adhesive and u r right, it’s cheaper.
Did you do your roof? looks like it would likely stay there Ok.
I imagine it would adhere pretty well to the roof, but I did not do mine, the headliner is in pretty decent condition so I didn't want to add extra work. For the roof insulation, you might consider using the Kilmat insulator panels (300 mil I think), I put some of it over my transmission hump and on some of the firewall. Good luck!
Re: Dynamat, Fatmat and Rattletrap insulation
Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2018 2:58 pm
by 1979bettywhite
tgreese wrote:This class of stuff looks like the bituminous membrane used for waterproofing on windows and roofs. Anyone compare?
Yes, but without the asphalt fumes. I used Noico 80mil on my Chief. Can get it off amazon, and is basically the same as all the name brands.
Does it work? I would say yes, but don't expect your interior to be transformed to 2018 Cadillac ride quality.
Basically it reduces all the reverberations with the metal. You still get the sounds etc, but it does deaden the sound a fair amount over having nothing there.
I have not done my cargo area, but my plan is to build a set of sliding drawers etc for long road trips etc. These will be carpeted and such, so hopefully that will help with noise there. I don't have anything on my wheel wells so far, so that is where the majority of my noise is coming from currently.
I also did the roof of mine. As well as using some Reflectix on top of the sound deadner (adhered with 3m spray adhesive).
Re: Dynamat, Fatmat and Rattletrap insulation
Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2018 9:04 pm
by SJTD
To most effectively block outside noise you want a layer of foam or jute then a layer of heavy stuff. Covering all the metal with butyl is not an efficient use of that material. Butyl is for deadening vibration/resonance and you don't need 100% coverage for that.
Even Dynamat knows this an came out with their own MLV when people learned that covering the inside of their vehicle with butyl was wasting money.
Re: Dynamat, Fatmat and Rattletrap insulation
Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2018 5:40 am
by tgreese
According to my acoustics book, reflection of sound is best accomplished by alternating layers of dense and light materials. For example, in buildings you can add an extra layer of sheetrock to insulate for noise, but it's much more effective with an air gap between layers. This supports what SJTD wrote. Likely carpet over jute over bubble-wrap would work well, with selective placement of bitumin/Dynamat? You could try different combinations of cheap and available materials, and test them with your cell phone -
https://www.healthyhearing.com/report/4 ... ise-levels
Re: Dynamat, Fatmat and Rattletrap insulation
Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2018 9:08 am
by 440sixpack
I used Hush mat on the floor and on the roof under the headliner on my J10 and I have to say it helped. A LOT. I would absolutely do it again.
Re: Dynamat, Fatmat and Rattletrap insulation
Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2018 9:22 am
by Chubbinius
SJTD wrote:To most effectively block outside noise you want a layer of foam or jute then a layer of heavy stuff. Covering all the metal with butyl is not an efficient use of that material. Butyl is for deadening vibration/resonance and you don't need 100% coverage for that.
Even Dynamat knows this an came out with their own MLV when people learned that covering the inside of their vehicle with butyl was wasting money.
Completely agree, SJTD. In reading through the Dynamat and Rattletrap sites and some of the car audio installation sites for acoustic insulating- all talk about the need for layering (usually using a combination of 3 layers of-a CLD like butyl rubber, ccf, and mlv) to get the most effective noise reduction/blocking. I tried to layer them where I could (butyl across the whole floor, ccf on trans tunnel/firewall/kickpanels, and then ordered the jute padding and mass backed carpet kit from BJs). I didn't want to put too much thickness down on the floor and mess with seat positioning or functions.
I'm not completely finished yet, but I did notice that Kilmat, jute pad, and mass-backed carpet under the rear seat in the seat pan indent-area is making it tough to flip the rear bench seat down and latch the back up in position (something I'll have to play with by either puling out the jute or rolling the cargo carpet back a touch when the rear seat is in use).
Re: Dynamat, Fatmat and Rattletrap insulation
Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2018 7:23 pm
by custom76
I’ve decided on Noico Green 170 mil for the passenger floors and firewall and Kilmat 80 for the cargo floor to retain the embossing when I put the mat on it. Haven’t decided on doors and roof yet, probably use the Noico on the roof.
Many thanks for all the input
Re: Dynamat, Fatmat and Rattletrap insulation
Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2018 5:24 am
by 1979bettywhite
FWIW, I got a rubber roller from my local ace hardware that worked pretty well. Probably something you would use for installing wallpaper etc. I think the Noico comes with one, but after about 30 min of use, that one broke on me. The one from ace was much sturdier.
You can get something pretty similar at HD:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/POWERTEC-1- ... wQodmcYH1w