Full Size Jeep Network

Hello Everyone,

Just joined and starting the FSJ Build thread. I'm ready to get to work. I'm mostly going to post up before & after pics and some Questions probably.

The day I picked it up on the trailer.



ENGINE:
I dumped gas in the carb it fired up then stalled. Tried that a few times and it still would not idle. Removed the entire cleaner and I'm guessing there was not enough vacuum to open the flap. It starts right up now and idles very smooth.
I do have some leaks, thermostat housing leaks, clutch fan isn't tight like it should be, the funky looking air tube on R/S to the exhaust rusted really bad, AC disconnected, some random wires. YA gotta love the air pump/vacuum line experiment of the 80's....NOT!!!!

ITERIOR:

My favorite thing is interior invested with mouse excrement. I always think the next day I'll have the HantaVirus...ha!
I removed most of the carpet last night except under the front seats. (Pics of floor below). I was very confused on the many versions of TAN color interiors and I finally have that cleared up. So the seller has 4 what looks like (SAND Color) door panels and I'll be trading or selling in the near future for TAN interior parts I need. Ya gotta love the people who tear an interior apart just for a stereo. This weekend I'll lay out what door panel stuff I have & what I need and start buying next week. The plan "now" is to first complete the inside.

QUESTION: The truck doesn't have bed carpet or tailgate carpet or the chrome strips either. Is that normal? The fender wells had carpet on them.

Pics:

More pic's:

Last 2 pics:

It's really amazing that those rear quarters look so good. Wow.

My guess is that someone pulled the carpet in the back and on the tailgate, along with the metal cargo strips. As far as I know, a GW would not have been shipped without those items in 88. I'm almost certain the last year for any sort of a plain jane Wag was 85 or 86 and if all that other GW trim on yours is stock, then I highly doubt it could even have been ordered without rear carpet.

Bones wrote: ENGINE:
I dumped gas in the carb it fired up then stalled. Tried that a few times and it still would not idle. Removed the entire cleaner and I'm guessing there was not enough vacuum to open the flap. It starts right up now and idles very smooth.

QUESTION: The truck doesn't have bed carpet or tailgate carpet or the chrome strips either. Is that normal? The fender wells had carpet on them.

The air filter has an anti-rodent flap, it is either disconnect by not receiving vacuum or the vacuum activator is non op, it happens. I have mine zip tied opened, the one that I found at the junkyard was bad as well, did not hold up vacuum.
Sometimes the oil pressure switch goes bad and the choke flaps stays closed creating another poor running conditon after the engine has warmed up.

Bones wrote: QUESTION: The truck doesn't have bed carpet or tailgate carpet or the chrome strips either. Is that normal? The fender wells had carpet on them.

looking at the pict I do not see the screw holes that are holding the chrome strips onto the cargo floor, so it seems that you have a non carpeting cargo from the origin... which is another less rusty spot...

as for the rust on the floor, it is probably the failed window weather strip that let water inside the door and then the water seeps past the bottom of the door panel and under the carpet... otherwise for the front it can be the fresh air vents that are packed with fresh compost from the pine needles and other leaves that accumulate because the fresh air vent intake has no mesh to prevent large foliage to enter the conduit. check the water everywhere post

http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7426

@ twistedframe, I KNOW! I was blown away by those quarters as well. Wait for the inside of the door pics & the door channels where the mounts connect to the body. I have a complete carpet coming. I will not drill holes in good metal if I don't have too so I'll stick it down or cut out a piece of Masonite and glue carpet to that for bed, the tail gate I'll stick it down.

@letank, That intake issue makes sense. My years of flipping or fixing stuff up I've always neglected the interior stuff. This time I'm addressing the interior & leaks. The engine stuff is easier/quicker for me to do. She's in the garage now so not a who lot of outside time in the near future.

I did purchase after a whole lot of searching for a fuel tank. This is the site I used. They told me twice this tank was gonna work and If not its free shipping to return within 30 days. https://www.autopartswarehouse.com/engi ... arbc670112

Does anyone have negative input on that tank or something I should know? I will replace float/sending unit and hoses.

Bones wrote: I did purchase after a whole lot of searching for a fuel tank. This is the site I used. They told me twice this tank was gonna work and If not its free shipping to return within 30 days. https://www.autopartswarehouse.com/engi ... arbc670112

Does anyone have negative input on that tank or something I should know? I will replace float/sending unit and hoses.

Hard to tell about that supplier, no specs on size, but the price is good,.... no specs on fuel hose filler diameter and fuel vapor recovery intake, ... The 88 is a plastic tank supported by the skid plate...

I figured I'd take a gamble. That picture doesn't look like what I have searched for.

I'll have comparison pictures of the tank next week to help or save everyone time. Once this NJ humidity breaks I'm back to work!

Yesterday I received my 1989 service manual from Rock Auto.

Hey All,

The gas tank update. See pics. I removed my tank and sure enough it is plastic. (I had no idea honestly..lol) Here are the comparison pictures from a stock 1988 to what I thought I found online. (https://www.autopartswarehouse.com/engi ... arbc670112)

Not really exact. So I requested an RMA from the company and they will credit me the 98 bucks and I don't have to return the tank. BONUS!! Seems very odd. So I'm gonna sit on the tank for awhile. This tank could/maybe be modified to work for those in a bind with an electric fuel pump or a modification of the metal with plastic.

I'm very lucky at my job I can just surf "I mean research" on the web, so if you need AC lines made up this company can do it. Anything I post I could be late to the "I have a place" game. Just trying to help out those who may not be lucky enough to waste days online.

AC lines web site: https://coldhose.com/contacts/index/

I suspect that both tanks have same length, the distortion of the camera lense makes them different, right?
the only drag seems to be that the fill hose is larger than the OEM, no too sure about the vent hose size. No obvious sign of vapor release ports (our plastic tanks have 2, 1 in front, 1 in the back) for the charcoal canister... Does the ring holder for the gas gauge/intake is the same as ours, and hopefully it can be installed without touching the floor of the waggy... then you have to find a way to hang the tank, the old metal has a strap forward of the rear axle and a mounting tab at the from, rearward of the TC...

The lock ring on the tank different. Its Flat and you'd use a punch or flat tip to lock or unlock it. Not threaded.

If someone was in a jam and had time to do fab work it would work.

The stock tank is fine so once I receive my new filler hoses, gauge, vapor release ports and I run all new rubber lines she is going back in.

Stay tuned, Later next week I'll have some updates and pic's on the progress.

I've been thinking about adding a tank in the same position on the other side. That looks like it might work.

Bones wrote:The lock ring on the tank different. Its Flat and you'd use a punch or flat tip to lock or unlock it. Not threaded.

so this is more a pre 80's tank, not too sure when the change was done from flat to threaded, but I suspect from metal to plastic tank, for the metal tank:



good to know that you can fix it

SJTD wrote:I've been thinking about adding a tank in the same position on the other side. That looks like it might work.

too many parts on the other side, exhaust and driveline

Following to watch your interior. I’m in the same boat with one I just drug home. Getting it running quick but not really any idea where to start inside.

Update:

The last 2 weekends I have no pics because everyone pretty understands what I did.

Last weekend: Seats washed, leather cleaner, neatsfoot oiled.

This weekend: Fuel tank, new sending unit, new vents, and all new fuel lines. That tank install was a PINA by yourself and I probably should have read the service manual. I tried to install the tank first without the shield..haha. good times!

Engine: I removed the AC unit, & Air pump, Water Pump, Clutch Fan, Radiator, Lower Hose, Rubber Trans Lines, Most of the Vacuum Lines replaced, Better Grill, Headlights.

Thermostat housing & hose this week (housing was cracked) I ordered my brake stuff today as well.

This coming weekend will be the rust on the floor pans, sand, weld up holes prime & paint. Thought about POR15 but this truck won't be out in the weather much so I'm not going to worry. I'll be putting down a product similar to Dynamat as well.

Interior should be in two weeks (pics definitely on this). Sand colored panels that came with the truck will get SEM paint and a set of door handles are a darker brown so I'll have details on how that goes. SEM paint has a video and I chatted them up on some questions I had.

When I'm all done I'll parts I will not need any longer in case people are interested.

A lot of people get either a bigger tank or add aux one because the stock tanks is too small for a gas guzzler, or carry gas cans.

Usually put it where the spare tire goes and then carry the spare tire inside with a mount.

Just in case you were wondering something to do possibly with your extra tank you bought if it fits there.

And I was just wondering why you pulled your tank? Was a problem or just wanted to go through it?

I pulled my tank for 2 reasons. 1) The gage showed full and it wasn't full & the orange light was on. I figured the sending unit was bad. 2) I wanted to replace all the fuel lines and I thought it was metal and it would be an easy job...haha "surprise" Shield is solid and rust free though.

Now the gage works great but I still have the orange light on. Showing just over a 1/4 tank. I cleaned up the terminals on the wires for the sending unit. Not sure the problem on that yet.

That purchased tank is pretty big not sure It could work in the spare tire area. It's a good idea. Let me drive this thing around and see how much gas I use. I do plan to keep the spare inside once I find an extra wheel.

Saturday Sanded down the floor pans. I had 3 pin holes on back seat PS pan & 1 large hole the size of a silver dollar. I cheaped out and used a small amount of fiber glass and liquid nails for the pin holes. (didn't weld a piece in like I planned) So I primed & painted with rustoleum. I picked up a cheap version of Dynamat. I tend to go a little overboard sometimes. Probably wasn't needed but the new carpets have very little sound deadening material. Right after I finished the mat I twisted the wrong way and pulled a back muscle...well that's its for me for the next few days. The joys of getting older and the prizes I get for all that stupid stuff I did when I was young..ha. So here is a few pics of the progress.

Hello, So it’s been awhile since I have logged on. A lot has happen since. I took a job that was not greener and I decided to move to mooresville nc. Best thing I ever did was getting out of nj and have a great job now. Love it here. I also took my Jeep. Need some help on the rear differential. Did rear brakes and can feel the axle shaft is not smooth when spinning. Took off diff cover oil was very thick and a dark brown (not clear). I plan to do the outer axle bearings/seals but can I do the inner bearings without removing gears? I don’t have a dial indicator or the skill to setup a rear I feel. Thank you