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To start I have a 67’ Gladiator with no power brakes or steering...So I have recently swapped in a 14 bolt from a 06 2500 HD with disc brakes but I still have my stock closed knuckle 44 up front with drum brakes. I plan on swapping in a chevy 44 or 60 for a winter project next year but I want to drive it now. Do I need a different MC, proportion valve and add a booster? My wife tried helping me bleed the brakes last night and gave up after a hour. It still seems like I have a lot of air in the rear brakes. But wondering if it’s because I don’t have what I need to get me on the road. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.


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On our 67 we used this https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway ... 36759.html

We run a closed knuckle 44 up front with a disc brake swap and a ford 9 in the back with a disc swap and it stops the truck nicely.

Minus drilling a few holes in the firewall and modifying the linkage for the pedal a bit it worked great for us.

IIRC the early J Trucks didn't have a booster and you'll definitely want that to be able to take advantage of the rear disks.

Trying to get discs to work in back with your current brake setup will be tough.

Since you had 4 wheel drums, you don't actually have a proportioning valve. You just have a distribution block. It does not proportion brake fluid between the front and rear. You also most likely have a single reservoir master cylinder which is most likely not going to be able to push the fluid required. And yes to a booster, which will also require a different master.

I am not actually sure if you will be able to get the brakes to work properly with drums up front and discs in back.

^^^ What stuka said. It occurred to me that I didn't mention you will definitely want front disc running rear disc as well. Front drums and rear discs would be an odd setup and also 2x on the proportioning valve.

Here's an article about swapping the closed knuckle to discs. http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/trans ... /#photo-15

All the parts basically can be sources from similar era Chevy full size pickups. (Calipers, Backing Plate, Rotors, etc.)

Thanks guys. Does anyone know what kind of booster and proportioning valve I need?


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bgott wrote:On our 67 we used this https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway ... 36759.html

We run a closed knuckle 44 up front with a disc brake swap and a ford 9 in the back with a disc swap and it stops the truck nicely.

Minus drilling a few holes in the firewall and modifying the linkage for the pedal a bit it worked great for us.

IIRC the early J Trucks didn't have a booster and you'll definitely want that to be able to take advantage of the rear disks.

What master cylinder did you use?


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bgott wrote:^^^ What stuka said. It occurred to me that I didn't mention you will definitely want front disc running rear disc as well. Front drums and rear discs would be an odd setup and also 2x on the proportioning valve.

Here's an article about swapping the closed knuckle to discs. http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/trans ... /#photo-15

All the parts basically can be sources from similar era Chevy full size pickups. (Calipers, Backing Plate, Rotors, etc.)

I’ve had nothing but problems with these old 44’s. Hopefully I can find a chevy 44 or 60 to swap in


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https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Under-Da ... 45467.html

That's the specific kit we used. We used the bracket it came with while the dash was out, but IIRC it would work with the stock assembly too with a bit of modification. The bracket it comes with has to be chopped to fit behind the dash and the pedal modified (bent) to go around the column. Nothing a smoke wrench can't fix, but a long days work if your dash isn't out.

Looks like BJ's is selling a kit to swap the front to disks now, and honestly for mild builds I think these front ends are plenty strong enough. I would upgrade if you have a ton of torque and/or wheel your rig hard, but for more or less stock application they're fine.

Here's the BJ's kit. http://www.bjsoffroad.com/1963-1973-Dis ... p_277.html

Honestly, unless somebody wants to retain the original axle to stay mostly original, don't bother with disc brakes on it. Its going to cost about the same as a D44HD/10B-HD from a GM or the like. And then you have a much stronger axle that already has disc brakes.

That kit listed above for the pedal/booster/master is pretty cool. Then you just need a prop valve, which you can get for use with front and rear disc brakes.

bgott wrote:https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Under-Da ... 45467.html

That's the specific kit we used. We used the bracket it came with while the dash was out, but IIRC it would work with the stock assembly too with a bit of modification. The bracket it comes with has to be chopped to fit behind the dash and the pedal modified (bent) to go around the column. Nothing a smoke wrench can't fix, but a long days work if your dash isn't out.

Looks like BJ's is selling a kit to swap the front to disks now, and honestly for mild builds I think these front ends are plenty strong enough. I would upgrade if you have a ton of torque and/or wheel your rig hard, but for more or less stock application they're fine.

Here's the BJ's kit. http://www.bjsoffroad.com/1963-1973-Dis ... p_277.html

Why did you guys go with an under dash kit. Do you think I can use a Master Cylinder and booster from an XJ?


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There’s also a cast spacer that mounts between the booster brackets and firewall. It realigns the booster and master cylinder to match the power brake pedal. I got one from a 70 or 72 wagoneer I think.

I also used a hotrod style booster/mc/pv for a disc/drum configuration, similar to what was posted. I found mine on eBay. It bolted to the wagoneer firewall plate and lined up perfect with the jeep brake pedal.


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44bz wrote:There’s also a cast spacer that mounts between the booster brackets and firewall. It realigns the booster and master cylinder to match the power brake pedal. I got one from a 70 or 72 wagoneer I think.

I also used a hotrod style booster/mc/pv for a disc/drum configuration, similar to what was posted. I found mine on eBay. It bolted to the wagoneer firewall plate and lined up perfect with the jeep brake pedal.


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Why Hot Rod style? Will a booster and MC work from an XJ?


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I went with something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-7-in ... 1500254748

Only because it included everything I needed. I don’t know personally if an xj booster and mc would work but if it will bolt up then sure.


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BWFDRUMS wrote:
Why did you guys go with an under dash kit. Do you think I can use a Master Cylinder and booster from an XJ?


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We used the underdash kit because it came with everything needed to make it work. I'm sure you could make the booster/MC from an XJ work, but you'll be piecemealing a system that I can't imagine would save you a tremendous amount of time/money and could cause you more headaches than it's worth.

There is a cast bracket as 44BZ mentioned, which we actually had, but did not wind up using. Whichever way you go I don't think you're going to find something that just bolts right up with no issues/creative workarounds.

BWFDRUMS wrote:

bgott wrote:https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Under-Da ... 45467.html

That's the specific kit we used. We used the bracket it came with while the dash was out, but IIRC it would work with the stock assembly too with a bit of modification. The bracket it comes with has to be chopped to fit behind the dash and the pedal modified (bent) to go around the column. Nothing a smoke wrench can't fix, but a long days work if your dash isn't out.

Looks like BJ's is selling a kit to swap the front to disks now, and honestly for mild builds I think these front ends are plenty strong enough. I would upgrade if you have a ton of torque and/or wheel your rig hard, but for more or less stock application they're fine.

Here's the BJ's kit. http://www.bjsoffroad.com/1963-1973-Dis ... p_277.html

Why did you guys go with an under dash kit. Do you think I can use a Master Cylinder and booster from an XJ?


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Im running an XJ master, vac boost, and disc/drum proportioning valve with drum front and rear and it stops my truck with 35s like it has disc up front. As long as theyre adjusted correct and in good working order it would work fine. Ive been running that setup for about 4 years now with zero issues. Youll have to drill a couple new holes for the booster (2 if i recall) but it is definitly doable and less expensive than a disc conversion. Ive driven interstate at 75mph and stopped it like any other vehicle would. Just make sure the fronts are evenly adjusted or youre gonna see some serious s**t at those speeds lol extremely hard braking locks it right up.

Disclaimer: Any mods I have done to my jeep were done irrationally with a slight does of insanity and disregard for common sense. Perform at your own risk

All seriousnous though, it can be easily done and works fine.

Phils67 wrote:

BWFDRUMS wrote:

bgott wrote:https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Under-Da ... 45467.html

That's the specific kit we used. We used the bracket it came with while the dash was out, but IIRC it would work with the stock assembly too with a bit of modification. The bracket it comes with has to be chopped to fit behind the dash and the pedal modified (bent) to go around the column. Nothing a smoke wrench can't fix, but a long days work if your dash isn't out.

Looks like BJ's is selling a kit to swap the front to disks now, and honestly for mild builds I think these front ends are plenty strong enough. I would upgrade if you have a ton of torque and/or wheel your rig hard, but for more or less stock application they're fine.

Here's the BJ's kit. http://www.bjsoffroad.com/1963-1973-Dis ... p_277.html

Why did you guys go with an under dash kit. Do you think I can use a Master Cylinder and booster from an XJ?


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Im running an XJ master, vac boost, and disc/drum proportioning valve with drum front and rear and it stops my truck with 35s like it has disc up front. As long as theyre adjusted correct and in good working order it would work fine. Ive been running that setup for about 4 years now with zero issues. Youll have to drill a couple new holes for the booster (2 if i recall) but it is definitly doable and less expensive than a disc conversion. Ive driven interstate at 75mph and stopped it like any other vehicle would. Just make sure the fronts are evenly adjusted or youre gonna see some serious s**t at those speeds lol extremely hard braking locks it right up.

Disclaimer: Any mods I have done to my jeep were done irrationally with a slight does of insanity and disregard for common sense. Perform at your own risk

All seriousnous though, it can be easily done and works fine.

Haha same here with the crazy mods. Thanks, I just actually pulled one off an XJ but wasn’t gonna trying swapping it until I find a new front axle with discs. I just bought an original MC and gonna try that so I can “kinda” drive until then. Thank you.


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No prob. I can tell you this, after driving with it for the last few years with that swap i do not regret doing it one bit. WAY better than manual brakes