Full Size Jeep Network

Hey Guys, in the past I have tightened-then tapped the HB on the crank. I know that there is a proper tool for this. Does anyone have a preference for a tool to install the HB on an AMC crank?

Also, is the crank bolt thread 1/2-20?

You can take the crank bolt to Fastenal or other, get a threaded bolt or rod and a couple of nuts. I go about 6" threaded all the way with a couple thick washers. Then you can thread the bolt in with the nut at the top with the washers next,hold the bolt an tighten the nut down. Pressing the HB on.

Dont tap the balencer on the crank it can damage the bearings. Get yourself a harmonic balencer installer kit from harbor freight. or rent one.. Its a kit with multiple size bolts and a T fitting with a bearing. So when you turn the big center bolt it preses it on the crank.

These are what the kits look like. to remove and install.

Ive heard people using the balencer bolt itself and just use an impact gun to pull it on too.

NEVER use the crank snout bolt to pull the balancer on and NEVER hammer or tap it on either. Rent the correct tool to avoid costly damage to your balancer, crankshaft, and bearings. Most of the tools are the same. OEM and OTC brands are pretty decent for the do-it-yourselfer.

Ill rent one at the Advance Auto here in town. Thansk guys

By taping or any type of hitting on it may cause the thrust bearing to flatting out causing to much end play on the crank. By using the factory bolt to install it you run the risk of stripping out the the crank or bolt threads or both.

So I rented the tool from autozone to install it. Now the adapter is stuck in the crank and no way to remove it.

Yay.

ShagWagon wrote:So I rented the tool from autozone to install it. Now the adapter is stuck in the crank and no way to remove it.

Yay.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

ShagWagon wrote:

ShagWagon wrote:So I rented the tool from autozone to install it. Now the adapter is stuck in the crank and no way to remove it.

Yay.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I had the same issue, I sneaked a pair of visegrip onto the stuck snub, and another visegrip at 90degrees on the placed 1st visegrip... it required a lot of persuasion, took a break and sprayed pb blaster, in fact IIRC I slipped a 3' breaker bar onto the handle of the visegrip and moved carefully... I sprayed some dust cleaner, but inverted to cool the stuck snub...

good luck

When using one of these tools it is not necessary to crank it all the way in until it's tight.
Install until it's tight then back it off a little, then install balancer, then removal of the threaded adapter can usually be done by hand.

babywag wrote:When using one of these tools it is not necessary to crank it all the way in until it's tight.
Install until it's tight then back it off a little, then install balancer, then removal of the threaded adapter can usually be done by hand.

Now you tell me lol... Common sense says to tighten it so you don’t pull your crank threads. I actually thought about it. There’s no instructions really, other than how to put it together. For a DIY driveway mechanic you would think they could mention this because autozone lost my business for life over this. I also didn’t appreciate the Chinga puller that the crow foot folded up on me, and the bolts bent because of crap cheap metal they use. If autozone needs to be so cheap they dont need my business. Turned a 2 hour job into a 2 day nightmare.

letank wrote:

ShagWagon wrote:

ShagWagon wrote:So I rented the tool from autozone to install it. Now the adapter is stuck in the crank and no way to remove it.

Yay.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I had the same issue, I sneaked a pair of wisegrip onto the stuck snub, and another wisegrip at 90degrees on the placed 1st wisegrip... it required a lot of persuasion, took a break and sprayed pb blaster, in fact IIRC I slipped a 3' breaker bar onto the handle of the wisegrip and moved carefully... I sprayed some dust cleaner, but inverted to cool the stuck snub...

good luck

I struggled with vise grips but it’s sunk down in to far to get a good grip. Tried needle nose vise grips, they bent when I turned and stripped the inside of the adapter bolt. Tried an easy out, it grinded my easy out down.... was ready to cut a slot with my Dremel for a straight screwdriver and waiting for my friend to come over with a welder to weld a nut on it, then I thought maybe I could just take it the balancer off to get better access for the brutal coaxing that was about to commence for the feat of the day. I pressed the puller on top of the adapter and it came off fairly easy. Then I put the vise grips on it with a good hold, mustered up all my strength and had a hammer ready. It came off as easy as a 2 liter soda cap.

what is happening when you tighten the tool to press the balancer in, it self tighten even if you could fit loose, and then on top of it it's not deep enough so you have to add an extra shim, some of the balancers are looser so you don't even need the tool, the crankshaft bolt does the sliding very easily. on the 85 I don't even need a balancer tool installer and in 74 it was so tight that at some point I said the tool is going to break so I didn't even press the balancer all the way and it is probably a quarter inch short of fitting.
we need a better tool, the corvette guys seem to have the same problems
yes, instructions or schematics could be helpfull

It shouldn't tighten up while/during install.
The thrust bearing and big nut does all the work.
The large threaded dealio & smaller adapter should remain stationary during install.
Used one couple yrs ago or actually made my nephew use it to install balancer.
He was green as can be far as wrenching and the AZ tool gave us no issue.

It has a 1/2 bolt thru the main threaded dealio. Your supposed to put a wrench on the threaded dealio to prevent it from tightening.

I suspect that when it is too tight , the balancer is dumped in hot fluid to expand the metal, hence buggering the rubber donut and f#@* the timing in some cases.

As said the whole stuff is self tightening... may be we need to find a better version for futur jobs.

BTW, mine is also the vatozone version as well, it was so buggered up, that I did not return it so nobody would have to be frustrated with it, so I bought it

Heres the cheap ass Chinga made tool they sold me at autozone. The whole crow foot part of it folded up like gold painted lead,( I bent it back with my vise) the bolts bent and the center of the claw threads angled out and stripped the main threads lol. Chinga metal vs US steel. What a joke. I went to Napa and they tried to sell me the same thing but painted silver. I asked Napa if they had a better one and they sold me a hardened steel one for $20 which worked like a charm...




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here is the instructions for the installer from autozone. Again what a joke. It’s somewhat self explained but common sense says to thread the adapter till it’s tight. The second time I backed it off 1 turn and it was fine. Also the main big nut is too short, I could barely get a wrench on it at an extreme angle and turn it 1/8 of a turn because they’re too cheap to use a taller nut you can get a wrench firmly on or to or provide any spacers. At least it’s OEM though.....





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk