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Head bolts?

Yup head bolts because my originals are hiding. Searching left me with BJs ARP bolts pretty pricy but not too bad

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Ah. The original head bolts would have been fine ... if you knew where they were.

Yea I have a feeling I sent them with my scrap load

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Finally got the Head bolts, looking for all of your opinions, to copper coat or not to copper coat head gaskets?

What say you?

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I've had good luck w/ standard head gaskets using copper spray.
However, if directions specifically state to put 'em on dry, I put 'em on dry.

Gaskets didn't come with instructions. Felpro metal/felt gaskets

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I always use copper spray . but it's probably a waste of time.

I sprayed mine. They probably were the Felpro ones.

Heck if I know if it helped or not...

Getting her all buttoned up new balancer and water pump installed. I had to get the Dremel out and grind down the casting on the water pump...

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So by chance I came across a step that I wasn't aware of installing the heads and another possible issue

#1 I didn't do the 2or 3 step torque sequence I went straight to 110 ft lbs using the proper pattern.

#2 with arp head "bolts" is 110 ft lbs ok?

What are the chances of failure?

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Use ARP torque spec. if different than stock bolts? Sometimes they have different spec. on instruction sheet.

Can’t speak on not going in gradual steps...it’s what I’ve always done.
If me I’d back ‘em off and retorque in steps, no idea if necessary, but it’d make me feel better.

I wouldn't back them off, at least not more than 10 or so. If using ARP's they should be good for more so I'd just find out what their max is and go somewhere between where you are now and that.

Thanks guys


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So I started pulling stuff off the other engine to find out it has a Holley street dominator intake. You couldn't tell what it was before due to 35" of cooked oil covering it

And looking through the oil drain ports in the engine valley, seems from what I can see the cam looks really good, look closer when I get this engine pulled.

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Will be getting rid of builder engine ran ok considering ... had valve train issues.

comes with extra set of heads
Left (driver side) bank head casting is messed up from p.o. header bolt hole is effed. So let me know if your interested.

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Well one heater core box later the engine is out..... bout lost my sh$% doing it

And before I started noticed that there was nothing holding engine in or the trans

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Oops

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The dizzy is trying my patience.... it won't seat onto the oil pump...... walking away.

Edit:
So I went back out and tried again, No dice.

The distributor came out of the original 87 engine. The oil pump is new and have new cam drive gear + new distributor gear (rugged ridge).

Any ideas?

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I think you asked about this in another thread. Use a long screwdriver to turn the oil pump shaft to get it to line up with the distributor.