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Hi
I have a 1988 grand wagoneer, I bought it in 2006, with 68,000 miles and no rust. It was in a couple of prior minor fender benders.
I have since put 20k miles on it, with really no maintenance other than oil, and a brake slave cylinder.

All the carpet, door panels, switches, have been sold, I am slowly going rock crawler, I parted it out, but kept the important stuff, 360, 727, Dana 44, np 228,

I am a professional welder by trade, so I can build any thing. No Fear. I did a axle over, on a 1975 OH Scout 2, in 1991. Well a U BOLT fractured, axle rolled under, and totaled my rig. Kept every thing stock, and took up riding dirt bikes. Getting old for them bikes, I am 45 in 2017.

So before I get started, I want to follow were others have tread. It is all stock, less the snow plow. Money is very tight, kids in collage, but steel is only .15 cents a pound.

So the lift kit is to drop the hanger mounts, welded to frame,
Tires are going to be 16.5 x 36 military, on custom rims.
3:73 gears might break, on the Dana 44,

My back tail gate is frozen dead closed, it is getting cut off, It worked once in 2008 for a few weeks.

I plan on chopping the top along the second row seat. With a roll bar support, going across.

We're to start?
Exhaust pipe broke off in 2012 at MIOBI, in Iowa. Easy enouph.

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Markstrimaran wrote:We're to start?
Exhaust pipe broke off in 2012 at MIOBI, in Iowa. Easy enouph.

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It will be a few years, before I am ready for the diesel swap. I still don't know for sure if I should get put Cummings or just get A65 Chevy Turbo diesel .

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Some exhaust pipe welding.

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Well that's, done.

Alternator/ charging problem persist, solar panel on roof rack, might be the plan.

6.5 diesel is in the mail, it needs some work, so it's going to be all chevy, from the fan to the drive shaft.

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6.2 diesel from a H1. Unloading in a road ditch, and pulled the last mile home.

It will need some work, heads are coming off for sure. Probably at least a blown gasket, maybe a cracked head, could be a cracked block.

The upside is the tranny, and t case are good. and I got a core.

Price was about 8,000.00 less than my 4bta, dodge tranny, idea.






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8k For a blowed up motor? Seems steep even if you got the trans and transfer case.

But any Diesel is better than a gas motor.

SJTD wrote:8k For a blowed up motor? Seems steep even if you got the trans and transfer case.

But any Diesel is better than a gas motor.

I believe he was saying that the 6.2 cost $8000 less than a 4bt

Opps. Reading comprehension fail.

In that case is seems like a pretty good deal.

Yep, hopefully just a blown head gasket, on the 6.2. Easy fix

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It appears that nothing is cracked, or blown. Just rust on the upper cylinders on 6 an 7. Causing ecessive blow by, and low compression.
Defiantly a low mileage engine. Very little wear on every thing else.

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Looking alot better cleaned up some. Cross hatches still visible. Might rering
010 over and roll. Not sure, I will have it running on a skid before it goes in the jeep.


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Are you planning on putting a turbo on it? The NA 6.2L is super under powered. A Wagoneer does weigh about 1000lbs less than an H1 (stock for stock), but still going to be pretty slow. The 6.5L made twice the power. But should be reliable.

Stuka wrote:Are you planning on putting a turbo on it? The NA 6.2L is super under powered. A Wagoneer does weigh about 1000lbs less than an H1 (stock for stock), but still going to be pretty slow. The 6.5L made twice the power. But should be reliable.

I would like to turbo it. Still researching it. But the turbo will go on after it is in the Jeep. Trying to find reliable info on coated pistons, and water mist injection. Seams the turbo adds alot of heat.
An intercooler is probably needed.
I like the 6.2, for fuel mileage. They are affordable and durable. The finished power trane, 700r chevy, makes a 6.5 turbo, an easy drop in replacement.

I have a 1992 6.5 turbo in my k3500, I am old so fast acceleration is not high on my list.
I mostly want it for the lack of copper wire with road salts, malfunctions. Lol computerless, mechanically controlled.

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Markstrimaran wrote:

Stuka wrote:Are you planning on putting a turbo on it? The NA 6.2L is super under powered. A Wagoneer does weigh about 1000lbs less than an H1 (stock for stock), but still going to be pretty slow. The 6.5L made twice the power. But should be reliable.

I would like to turbo it. Still researching it. But the turbo will go on after it is in the Jeep. Trying to find reliable info on coated pistons, and water mist injection. Seams the turbo adds alot of heat.
An intercooler is probably needed.
I like the 6.2, for fuel mileage. They are affordable and durable. The finished power trane, 700r chevy, makes a 6.5 turbo, an easy drop in replacement.

I have a 1992 6.5 turbo in my k3500, I am old so fast acceleration is not high on my list.
I mostly want it for the lack of copper wire with road salts, malfunctions. Lol computerless, mechanically controlled.

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That's why I loved my 12 valve. I miss that truck, shouldn't have ever sold it.

Hey will a lunch box locker, affect handling with the transfer case in 2WD.
The front hubs are, unadjustable.

Thinking about a auto locker. Save some cash.

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Back at it again, finally got the engine on a rotating stand and pulled the two pistons with poor compression.

Both had stuck second rings, Then the rear right cylinder has a wavy diagonal wear spot.

The spot in the picture that's dark. I am not sure about it, I would like to just re ring it.

Pondered pulling all the pistons, then put that one back in and let it the new piston rings set, with a controlled, rotating of the engine with the heads bolted on.

Or bore just the one, .030 over and call it a day.

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Getting set up to send the motor to a machine shop, boring .30 over on one.

Looking at lift kits, I might cut out the fenders, then build new oversized fenders to fit.

Thinking about a 4 inch hanger extension. Then going with hummvee tires on custom backspaced rims.



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Off to the machine shop. I am keeping the other parts in a heated box to keep them dry, from condensation.

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Give them a good coating of WD40, will help keep them from rusting.