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Key is on the "O" and lined up with "O" pointing at the dot on the cam gear.

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Then it is installed correctly. I can see in the "updated" picture the key on the "O" but cannot see the timing marks but I trust you understand.

Slots. Heads are stamped 72. 88 core.

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REDONE wrote:

ColoWagon wrote:Question...are lifter bridges needed for stud rollers?

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Do the push rods have slots in the head or big round holes? If you have big round holes you need guide plates on the pushrods for those rockers. That would definitely explain the bent rod!

Slots.

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Status currently going through and doing a leak down as suggested by multiple people. Just slow going and arthritis is not being kind with the storms over head.

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How did you set the valve lash? It sounds like the rockers may be too tight. Did you have the heads or block cut when you rebuilt it?

Followed instructions for starting at zero lash.
The block was "kissed" when I had it machined. Their opinion was that it wouldn't matter. The heads are new to me but off a 74.

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Something just went 'CLICK' and I recall you writing "...while I was making a new key".
Unless I am going senile, I think there are two keys on the crank; one for the timing gear and the other for the balancer. Could it be the key you made sheared off or wasn't put in?

Both are there. Just pulled the front apart to double check. My thoughts were along the same lines

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Don't know if anyone has had this experience but I for one have not been able to get an AMC motor to run worth a darn at 0° advance spark timing. Last time I did a motor swap I had to fiddle with spark advance before the darned thing would fire up (and that was after double-checking plug wires and distributor being all correct). This was a stock motor that ran so I didn't have to hassle with timing set.

Just throwing that out there for general awareness in case it might actually be helpful.

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Time to reset...I took y'alls advice and stepped away for a bit.
Right before I gave up I pulled the timing cover and also called Edelbrock to confirm I was using the correct notch on the timing chain. All was well. I replaced the harmonic balancer as the old had slid about an inch and over the past month I put the front end back together. Couple days ago I found the instructions that came with the Camshaft, lo and behold there is a guide on how to set up for the first light. Go Figure!
Instructions state to find TDC the standard way. Then keep turning engine until marker on harmonic balancer is at 5% advance on the timing cover marker. Distributor is now pointed at number 1. Place wires based on that. I did all of this and almost had an accident when I (very sarcastically mind you) go to try and fire the engine.
Caught up on back story....
So I fire the engine and it lights up. Sputters and dies. Advance the distributor and she lights up again...here's the next hurdle. I have a loud rhythmic popping sound as engine is running. Coming up through the Carb. Think of a snare drum doing a rim shot.
Guessing it sounds like an intake valve is open and the explosion in the cylinder is following least resistance.
Plan on pulling the valve covers to look at rods and rockers.
Started to rain so I thought I would catch people up.
Where else should I look?
Should I pull a spark plug one at a time to see if I can isolate which is causing the popping?

Thanks all
Brad

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Your camshaft may have a lobe that didn't wear in properly and went flat due to all the cranking.

How would something like that be checked for to know?

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how did you find TDC?

ColoWagon wrote:How would something like that be checked for to know?

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You can remove the valve covers and rotate the engine while watching the rocker arms. The one that doesn't seem to be moving as much as the others will be the culprit.

Tatsadasayago wrote:

ColoWagon wrote:How would something like that be checked for to know?

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You can remove the valve covers and rotate the engine while watching the rocker arms. The one that doesn't seem to be moving as much as the others will be the culprit.

Smart will try that!

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will e wrote:how did you find TDC?

Manually cranked engine while oldest son had his finger on the hole for #1. When we got the air push I put in a long fiberglass rod and continued to pull until it was at the top. Then looked at the balancer and rotated to 5 degrees advance and marked it there as #1 on the distributor. Done this so many times that I fear I am consistently doing it wrong, but dangit I am being consistant!

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What about a failed or "sticky" lifter? Could that be the issue?

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Found this...just might try It!
http://theamcforum.com/forum/popping-th ... page1.html

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ColoWagon wrote:Found this...just might try It!
http://theamcforum.com/forum/popping-th ... page1.html

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Yeah...not so much..got quieter but still bad. Will pull the valve covers and see what fun is going on.

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Order of events when I can get time in the garage.
Remove valve covers.
Remove spark plugs to make the engine easier to turn by hand.
Push down on each rocker to see if any are loose or "wiggly".
Look for any bent pushrods.
Manually turn engine watching the rockers.
Pattern should be in firing order with the Intake moving first and then followed by the exhaust...I think.

What am I missing?

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