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Looks lined up to me but who knows...
What timing set it that? It looks quite different than the ones I have.
For comparison:
Walters-


Crossed fingers-



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Edelbrock from BJ's

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I think the Edelbrock has three keyways on the crank sprocket for hotrodders to degree their cams. When they do this, the match-marks don't mean anything and they use a degree wheel instead. If you used the wrong keyway and the match-marks, you'll be 120° out on your valve timing. Would build pressure, but not a whole lot.

REDONE wrote:I think the Edelbrock has three keyways on the crank sprocket for hotrodders to degree their cams. When they do this, the match-marks don't mean anything and they use a degree wheel instead. If you used the wrong keyway and the match-marks, you'll be 120° out on your valve timing. Would build pressure, but not a whole lot.

D'oh!!!

I didn't know that!!!

Yep...it did/does. I went for the zero degree, versus the other two.

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Dadgum complicated doohickeys.


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Truth!

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My doohickey got caught in the framulator last night. It hurt.

ColoWagon wrote:Truth!

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It'll rub out...


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ColoWagon wrote:Yep...it did/does. I went for the zero degree, versus the other two.

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Cool, I can't remember for 100% sure, but I'm 90% sure the correct 0° is the keyway at ~2 o'clock with match marks aligned. Can't see it in your pic due to the balancer washer in place.

If I recall correctly, the O was the zero mark, and the Diamond and Triangle marks were the offset keyways.

So...order of events. Purchase new balancer. Pull the bolt off old..check..did not drift ( need to return the new one). Put bolt back on. On the advice of a much more mechanically inclined friend I set the balancer on the marked TDC. Rotor points at number 6. Ok. I am somehow 180 off. Restab, check wires. Try to fire. Scares me when it does. Runs nice for 30 seconds. Not going to lie I thought I was gunna cry. Very Happy! This ain't a Disney film though.
Popping noises begin and it won't hold idle. I stopped for the night. Enlist second eyes and hands. He knows what he is doing and recommends I tear it down to check that timing chain again. Ok. Just did a compression check as it drains fluids. 80-90's on a fresh rebuild. That ain't good.
I am done. Need to walk away for awhile. I may pick it back up in a couple weeks. May give up and part it out. Lots of new parts on here. Wanted to give everyone an update. I do really appreciate everyone's thoughts and opinions. At this point it is either pull the engine out and tear it down and start over, triple checking everything again. Or do it while it is still in the Jeep. I think it would easier to pull and start over. Looking at bent valves maybe? Take heads to get machined? Thoughts?

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FYI: If the rotor was pointing to the number 6 plug wire the engine will run as that is the companion cylinder to number 1. Sure sounds like valve timing is off and possibly one or more bent valves. I suggest a cooling off period then pull the engine and tear it down while doing a methodical inspection.
Sorry to hear you had so much trouble.

ColoWagon wrote:Found a pic of the timing chain I had sent for second eyes awhile back. I was making a key at the time so it is not in for the pic (yes it is installed in the engine).

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You can't tell from your picture if it was installed correctly. If the crank key is in the 'O' slock of the crank timing gear you are good. If the crank key is in the A or R slock it is way off.



In the picture you can see that the O is aligned with the mark on the cam shaft sproket AND you can just see the top of the O between 1 and 2 oclock and the bottom of the 'A' at 10 o'clock. If you put the crank shaft into the 'O' slot and used the O to align the timing it is good.

You someone wants to advance or retard they don't need a degree wheel, they just need to make sure they use matching letters. For examle, to advance the crank key goes into the 'A' slot and then timing alignment is done with the A marking , not the O.

If you look closely at the following picture you can see the top of the A marking where the chain meet the sprocket.
http://www.edelbrockproducts.eu/en/edel ... 0-401.html

Here you can see the bottom of the 'R':
http://www.edelbrockproducts.eu/en/edel ... 0-401.html

To be clear. If the pin is in slot 'A' then the 'A' timing mark is used. If the pin is in slot 'R' the 'R' timing mark is used and if it is is 'O' the 'O' timing mark is used.

You don't have to pull the front cover off to determine if you used the wrong crank key.

Easy test is pull #1 plug. Place the engine at just a few degrees before TDC. We want to see if the valves are closed by using compressed air. Best method is to use a spark plug fitting and gauge. A compresson tester with a pop off guage works great for the hose. If the cly holds air you are good. Don't worry about a slow leak. If you are 120 degrees off you will hear the air come through the intake or out the exhaust. if it doesn't hold air, you might be at the top of the exhaust stroke, try again after rotating the crank 180 degrees.


Another options is to remove the valve cover for the #1 piston. Move the crank to TDC. Is either valve opened, if so, rotate 180 degrees. Is either valve opened? When you are on the compression stroke both valves will be closed.

Update:

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Question...are lifter bridges needed for stud rollers?

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will e wrote:You don't have to pull the front cover off to determine if you used the wrong crank key.

Easy test is pull #1 plug. Place the engine at just a few degrees before TDC. We want to see if the valves are closed by using compressed air. Best method is to use a spark plug fitting and gauge. A compresson tester with a pop off guage works great for the hose. If the cly holds air you are good. Don't worry about a slow leak. If you are 120 degrees off you will hear the air come through the intake or out the exhaust. if it doesn't hold air, you might be at the top of the exhaust stroke, try again after rotating the crank 180 degrees.


Another options is to remove the valve cover for the #1 piston. Move the crank to TDC. Is either valve opened, if so, rotate 180 degrees. Is either valve opened? When you are on the compression stroke both valves will be closed.

Minutes difference! I can check the air still and valve cover is off (Got angry and worked through it)!

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will e wrote:

ColoWagon wrote:Found a pic of the timing chain I had sent for second eyes awhile back. I was making a key at the time so it is not in for the pic (yes it is installed in the engine).

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You can't tell from your picture if it was installed correctly. If the crank key is in the 'O' slock of the crank timing gear you are good. If the crank key is in the A or R slock it is way off.



In the picture you can see that the O is aligned with the mark on the cam shaft sproket AND you can just see the top of the O between 1 and 2 oclock and the bottom of the 'A' at 10 o'clock. If you put the crank shaft into the 'O' slot and used the O to align the timing it is good.

You someone wants to advance or retard they don't need a degree wheel, they just need to make sure they use matching letters. For examle, to advance the crank key goes into the 'A' slot and then timing alignment is done with the A marking , not the O.

If you look closely at the following picture you can see the top of the A marking where the chain meet the sprocket.
http://www.edelbrockproducts.eu/en/edel ... 0-401.html

Here you can see the bottom of the 'R':
http://www.edelbrockproducts.eu/en/edel ... 0-401.html

To be clear. If the pin is in slot 'A' then the 'A' timing mark is used. If the pin is in slot 'R' the 'R' timing mark is used and if it is is 'O' the 'O' timing mark is used.

Key is on the "O" and lined up with "O" pointing at the dot on the cam gear.

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ColoWagon wrote:Question...are lifter bridges needed for stud rollers?

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Do the push rods have slots in the head or big round holes? If you have big round holes you need guide plates on the pushrods for those rockers. That would definitely explain the bent rod!