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Hey, if nothing else, if you have a smartphone and can record the sound from close to the carb, this would help us help you diagnose the issue.

Won't let me upload a video...I do have one just need to get it to an account to link it I guess. Once I get home from work.

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ColoWagon wrote:Won't let me upload a video...I do have one just need to get it to an account to link it I guess. Once I get home from work.

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You can email it to me and I'll host it for ya
PM inbound

Sent! Y'all are awesome!

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Definitely sounds like timing is off and one cylinder is not sealing properly:

http://www.stregasworld.com/JeepStuff/37036.mp4

The key there is one cylinder intake valve isn't closing when the spark plug fires or there is no spark to light it off. This is likely due to advanced ignition timing or a plug wires not installed according to the firing order. This is why there is no flame through the carb this time. The worrisome part is it only seems to be one cylinder that is doing this while the others are doing nothing. There is something larger at play here...

My fear is that the valve bent when the rod was bent. Time will tell

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Have you done a slow, methodical wire inspection 101? Look at the pic I posted earlier and verify each wire is going to the correct cylinder. Then verify the rotor points at the #1 on the cap at TDC. If your off somewhere, that could be your issue and no further disassembly is required.
My concern is how far off your harmonic balancer mark is at TDC. If it were old and had "shifted", it should be off. But if it's still holding fine then something is off with your TDC.

ColoWagon wrote:My fear is that the valve bent when the rod was bent. Time will tell

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I would not be surprised. I will say that something else is at play here as well. Did you do the 'Finger in the number one plug hole while cranking to confirm TDC on the compression stroke trick"?

Just to reiterate: It doesn't matter where on the cap the rotor is pointing as long as it's pointing to the #1 plug wire contact at TDC on the compression stroke. Many people have gotten hung up on this. It could be that simple.

Yep...no pun intended but hole was fingered...um...yeah...you it doesn't matter how I say it sounds bad. But it most certainly was and there was a lot of pressure there. This is the same cylinder that bent the rod. Was going to compression test to hopefully rule out a leaky valve. Did double check the wires.
Question...make sense to restab the distributor? Was thinking I can pull it...rotate the pump with a screwdriver a bit to put the number 1 back where it used to be. Thoughts?

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Tatsadasayago wrote:Just to reiterate: It doesn't matter where on the cap the rotor is pointing as long as it's pointing to the #1 plug wire contact at TDC on the compression stroke. Many people have gotten hung up on this. It could be that simple.

Yep good with it being wherever as long as it I pointing at a plug them wires from there.

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ColoWagon wrote:Yep...no pun intended but hole was fingered...um...yeah...you it doesn't matter how I say it sounds bad. But it most certainly was and there was a lot of pressure there. This is the same cylinder that bent the rod. Was going to compression test to hopefully rule out a leaky valve. Did double check the wires.
Question...make sense to restab the distributor? Was thinking I can pull it...rotate the pump with a screwdriver a bit to put the number 1 back where it used to be. Thoughts?

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Yes, absolutely makes sense.
When in doubt, you can always use #6 in place of #1 for TDC/Timing as they are companion cylinders.
One trick for whenever you stab a dizzy is that if it doesn't drop into place so the rotor is pointing to whatever contact you want, you can lift it, back it off one tooth then let it slide into place. If it doesn't engage the oil pump drive, simply spin the engine a bit while adding some pressure to the cap and it will usually drop in. OldSchool®

if it has been grinding away a lot w/o running, that's a camshaft killer/death sentence.
#1 culprit in cam failure, need to STOP trying to start it and find out why it wouldn't run.

the video could already be evidence the camshaft is done.

What does that mean? That the camshaft could be done?

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done as in lobe wear from lotsa grinding away with starter.
to properly break in a cam, everything needs to be spot on, engine ready to fire & run for ~20 minutes. Continually cranking away with starter on new cam w/o engine firing off is no beuno.

not saying it is dead, but it may be.

Hope everyone is having a great 4th!
Checklist,
Rechecked TDC on cylinder 1.
Put distributor on plug 1.
Checked to make sure that was at sparker under rotor. (Not sure what is called) pic attached.
Check the harmonic balancer to see where the check line is in relation to TDC mark...way off. If looking at the engine from the front the mark is to the right enough to be tucked up under and not visible.
By my thinking...it has either drifted or the Camshaft is off the mark. Pretty sure it hasn't drifted from remaining still in my garage for 8 months.
Spark plugs are in the correct order and placement.
So before I try to crank, what else or is it a lost cause and begin the drain/tear down process?

Thanks all for the continued advice!

Brad

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Can you put the rotor button back on the distributor so we can see where it points.
Also, I would set the cap on the dizzy and Mark on the distributor housing where #1 is. That will make it easier to line it up initially.
I'm concerned you'll be taking it apart if the balancer is that far off. Hopefully not but it ain't looking good.


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Yep put cap on with rotor and is sitting at #1. I really suspect I screwed up the timing chain somehow. It seemed pretty straight forward. Ah well. What's another month or two. Was really hoping to take it over when we went camping at Ridgeway in two weeks!

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Found a pic of the timing chain I had sent for second eyes awhile back. I was making a key at the time so it is not in for the pic (yes it is installed in the engine).

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