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I just received my '97 Blazer tank and pump from RockAuto. Be advised, the sending unit reads backwards from the standard GM gauges, however, you should be able to reverse the float arm on the Airtex pump but that was not the case with the pump I ordered.

What is your plan for a fuel gauge?

the sending unit reads backwards from the standard GM gauge

Mine did too, came setup as a GM 90 when I got it. Its not wrong, just for a different application. I'm using the 86 and up Dakota Digital dash and although its a bit expensive it makes issues like fuel gauges, Vss, etc. very simple and easy to adjust/change. Dakota Digital has a nice chart that shows the different senders and their respective values. After a few seconds seconds in the fuel menu I had it switched to the GM 250.

243 wrote:I just received my '97 Blazer tank and pump from RockAuto. Be advised, the sending unit reads backwards from the standard GM gauges, however, you should be able to reverse the float arm on the Airtex pump but that was not the case with the pump I ordered.

What is your plan for a fuel gauge?

Im planning to use either Dakota digital or speedhut CANBUS gauges. Fuel gauge should be easy.


Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

My two and a half year old son was ready for a bed upgrade. So, why not a Jeep?

Thought some of y'all may appreciate the bed I made for my son. Still need to paint rear windows, add lights and fix the rear flare I had to modify for his new 25" ATV tires...but you get the idea











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Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

Wow, that is really cool, nice work!

That's awesome!

Coolest kid!
Great job

Great job! That is awesome.

Well until today, I hadn't touched the Jeep since May! What a shame...

Anyhow, a lot has changed in life. Baby Boy #2 should be here in the next month or so. Needless to say I've been busy with honey-dos.

I did get a chance today to tinker with the old waggy a little.
I FINALLY found a expansion plug that fit the 6L80E to plug the two ports on the tailshaft area that are plugged on 4x4 transmissions (remember mine is 2wd).



And a part number if anyone else ever has trouble finding one that fits



After that I measured 178 times...and then a few more times...and then cut the 2wd tailshaft off so it was the length of a 4wd, and would mate up to the NP241C.

I used a hose clamp to give myself a guide.






I then attached the transfer case adapter...





And finally...the time has come where the drivetrain is one piece! I delayed myself for months trying to find freeze plugs...got discouraged and bored with it. I was worried I wouldnt be able to cut the hardened tailshaft. Blah! Got it now!



After that I was feeling pretty good...decided to scuff and spray the firewall. I still need to sand and paint the drivers frame rail and engine mount. The mount grew surface rust since I never put anything on it when I installed them...



Anyhow-glad to finally have an update! Hopefully I can finish the engine bay paint tomorrow and possibly start putting the engine in!

Take care
Shawn

Nice work Shawn.

Looking good!

More progress! Got the engine in it, for test fitting. Looks good everywhere except the heater box. It's a little tight, pushing the wires down a little. I may relocate the coils. We'll see.















Hopefully I can stab the transmission without having to pull the engine. That may be a battle...

Worst case I'll pull engine and put it all in together.

BTW, Had my 2nd son a week ago! He's healthy and ready for a ride in the jeep with his big brother!

Shawn, I was curious how the build was going, now I know why you have not posted!

Congrats on #2, my #2 turned 20 about two weeks ago, time will fly by so have fun!

I have seen a lot of 5.3's with 4x2 4L60's and even considered buying a Suburban donor, is there any other issue with the 4x2 trans other than plugging the oil holes?

Mine is a 6L80E. The output shaft is longer and needed to be shortened. I also installed a 4x4 rear seal on the trans.

Other than that and the oil holes, they are identical. The output shaft is splined the full length so shortening it doesnt affect anything.

Im off from work for about a month (perks of military, paid baby leave). Hoping to get some work done!

Quick question. Why is the torque converter bolted to the flex plate? It is easier to get the torque converter mated to the transmission off the engine and bolt the torque converter to the flex plate after the engine and transmission are mated. I would be afraid of not properly mating the torque converter to the pump and possibly damaging it.

j20owner wrote:Quick question. Why is the torque converter bolted to the flex plate? It is easier to get the torque converter mated to the transmission off the engine and bolt the torque converter to the flex plate after the engine and transmission are mated. I would be afraid of not properly mating the torque converter to the pump and possibly damaging it.

It's easier and safer to have the converter all the way into the pump for installation then slide it forward that 1/4" or so to meet the flex plate.

Doing it the other way around is to me a recipe for disaster.

I never removed it from the flex plate when I separated the engine and transmission.

I'll do it the right way when I install the trans

ShawnQ wrote:I never removed it from the flex plate when I separated the engine and transmission.

I'll do it the right way when I install the trans

Good job!
I admit for removals I leave the converter attached to the flex plate so I don't have to fuss with rolling the engine over to get to the bolts.

Today i removed engine again. Removed the TC from the engine, & installed it on the trans. Then paired the transmission and engibe up without a hiccup, very smooth.

I then hoisted them into the engine bay, hopefully for the last time!

Now I need to figure out how to mount mount transmission to the crossmember, install the trans case, all linkages, wire, and fuel! Still a long ways to go but I'm glad I got the engine/trans off the ground.

Two things:

1) What degree of angle, front to rear, should I shoot for when mounting my transmission? I have a 6" lift so my rear drive shaft will have some angle. Should I intentionally lower the transfer case end of the driveline to accommodate some of this angle? For what its worth, there was no driveline vibration with the 360/727/229.

2) What type of transmission mount is preferred? Can I go straight through the crossmember, through poly bushings, and into the trans?
Or do I need an actual mount?
I did nit receive a mount with my transmission or transfer case adapter. It appears the bolt spacing is about 7.75" between the two holes.

Here's a few updated pics:













Closeup of the mount. As you can see, the trans is just resting on the crossmember. The mount pad is a few inches higher.



Plenty of room all around the 6L80E!

Hopefully I can play with it more tomorrow...

I used the stock GM tranny mount to the Jeep crossmember with the crossmember bolted to the rear most holes in the frame. I also had to build a small riser ontop of the crossmember that the tranny mount bolts to.

I set my engine at about a 5 deg angle.