Full Size Jeep Network

Not working out.
dont want to notch cross member,
Will probably replace it with 2x3 tubing at the front of frame.

I've got a couple of things working against the steering conversion.

-steering column (rag joint pressed on)
-gear box angle needed for input (affects pitman and mount bracket)
- front cross member (not far enough forward)

I think you're on the right track with replacing the front crossmember with 2x3 and moving it forward. On my 68 the front cross member is flush with the end of the frame rails.

Maybe look at the borgeson shafts. They're way stronger, safer, and gets you out of the rag joint.


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That's the direction I'm headed, still unsure if I want to replace my steering column or just modify the end by recessing the housing to expose more of the spline shaft, would have to drill off the rag joint first however.

I guess yours is too old to just do the XJ steering shaft swap?


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Yeah ... so I tried that. For two days @ PNP.
went Sunday and yesterday after work. Didn't have any deep sockets with me first day at closing time to drop the column to get the shafts out, and yesterday thankfully I brought the coupler with me for my Saginaw so when I did manage to get the shaft out I realized pretty quickly that neither end would work. Only wasted
about two hours combined. But at least now I know that option is definitely out.
There was a pristine 93 Cherokee there until I got done with it. It's got a few fist size dents in it now however.

Oh well, gonna get some 2x3 tomorrow.

Need to order some u joints and inner/outer dd.
Just gonna build my own.
$285 for a shaft is a bit more than I wanna spend.

Got a piece of 3/16-2x3, just about done getting the front member out but I need to pull the springs to support the frame better. I've got the frame on stands under the firewall but with the weight of the motor and the mounts not being tyed together it may give me some trouble.
Need to support near the front and probably tack in a brace before going any further.
But with the 2x3 up front and a bent pitman arm that should get the Saginaw in a usable location.

Once I had all but two rivets out and most of the welds cut I noticed the top weld on the passenger side closed up, I'm thinking it may be a good idea to tie the motor mounts together, kind of like an additional cross member.

Can you get the new crossmember in place before completely removing the old one? Then the frame might not twist on you.


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I made a brace, lifted it all up stuck a stand under motor to get the weight of the frame and managed to get the cross member out. Currently in process of boxing the frame then I'll get the 2x3 up front. Didn't have any plate or 4" square tube and the metal shops closed today so I had to cut up a 2x6, took longer than expected but it's turning out ok. Got drivers side done just need to duplicate.

Looking good!


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Thanks.
It's getting there, I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.
Did not expect having to change the steering for the motor installation, but I'm excited to have accomplished so much, waiting anxiously to get this thing sorted out and back on the road. I'm thinking of making some mounts to to fssr next.

Got the front of the frame boxed up, still need to get some measurements to tie in the 2x3.
It all fits nice and my little Eastwood welder surprised me. I had only planned on tacking everything in till I could my my jeep closer to the garage to tig weld it but it looked good so I kept going.

Did you figure something out for the steering box?

Yes, all this was done for the steering box.
Now I've got room to mount. Yay

Looks great and your steering gear fits! Congrats.


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Ordered one u joint for the box with .75 dd, and spring shackles/mounts. Probably going to replace column.

Es370r tie rod ordered to add some length needed for drag link to reach Saginaw pitman arm, had to notch new cross member for steering gear(because I used two existing holes to locate steering gear box mount).
Getting the Mercedes pump plumbed for saginaw and got a bunch of front spring mounting hardware to do fssr to gain clearance for oil pan. May notch oil pan if I can't make a longer slip front driveshaft.

Edit--- es370r. Not the right part,
Right length wrong thread dia.

Too bad you had to notch the new crossmember after all. The photo you posted looked it fit nicely.


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I only needed .75" but only because I used two mounting holes that were already through the frame. If I used a dpa I probably could have moved the Saginaw back some without any issues but I'd have to fill the frame holes first.