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230ohc wrote:And yes ive seen the mercedesdiesel4x4 kits available, ive talked with them and they have the experience and even know simple power tweaks to gain performance on the trail. Ive got a landcruiser 4 speed and tcase with chevy bell. I do plan to go that route if i cant mate to stock drivetrain, i just want to try it first.
I think a lot of us will be living vicariously through your build. I'd probably look into a modern manual transmission of 5 (or 6) speeds. The OD makes it much more drivable and able to squeeze out the mpgs. The aluminum construction would also save some weight, especially if coupled to an aluminum t case.
Years back I had a friend who did a swap in his YJ. He discovered that Ford actually used a BMW diesel 6 cyl for a couple years in one of their cars. He chose to run the diesel and it's auto tranny and had Novak make an adapter for the 231 t case. He got it all working and is probably still driving it today. But he did have some hurdles and headaches because he was working with somewhat of an "odd ball".
Best suggestion...plan It all on paper before starting to buy stuff. Projects snowball when we end up with parts we thought we'd use but change our mind midstream.
So I'm on the fence about doing this conversion. Not about the motor that's a definite, just which trans/case to go behind it. I would prefer a Dana 20 case, so that's probably a definite as well. The less stuff I have to fool with the better, the transmission I suppose is what I'm hung up on.
I'm finding t18/d20 combo from gladiators readily and inexpensive but the t90 can be had new from omix for $800... new. W.T.D.?
how does a t18 compare to t90?
So maybe someone can help me out here please.
Does the t18 4 speed come without the bell extension on any of the j series stuff?
All I've been able to find (360/t18/d20)has long input shafts with bell extension. I would really like to eliminate length if possible. But as of yet I still don't know if that extra length will be too long or not.
Does anyone know the length from the bell mounting flange to lower mount between trans/case on the 360/t18/d20 on the gladiator with bell extension.
Need this info before I pull the trigger on next parts purchase.
Any help please, thanks.
1964 willys wagoneer
Om617 turbo diesel
Ax15
Dana 300
3.73 dana 27 front
3.73 dana 44 rear
Even a 4speed ala t18 is a questionable choice for something your doing diesel in. Honestly, unless you plan to rock crawl I'd skip all the granny gear trannies unless one fell in your lap. The 3sp t90 is not a great choice either. You really want at least 4 full gears, preferably 5 (O.D.) to maximize the diesel.
Not speaking from first hand experience but I know some people who have done this swap into various Jeeps. I would definitely go AX15 and a more modern NP2xx case. Very easy to find parts, common Jeep stuff. And people put them behind this motor a lot now. Get a trans and case from a salvage yard for probably less than $250 and then it's another $400 or so for the adapters to do it easy and correctly.
^thats a good suggestion ^ Are you planning to keep the closed knuckle front axle? If not, depending on year of replacement axle and which side the diff is on, could dictate what t-case to look for. Pre80 44 is pass side. You could run a Dana 300 directly off an AX15. Post 80 DVr side diff and you can choose from the multitude of aluminum case transfers. Even an np231 would work and you could get a SYE and do the HD chain mod and it would last a long time. Plus low range is better than a Dana 20. Plus plus, youd save some weight.
I agree on a more modern 5 speed and TC. The 300 will give you a deeper low to make up for the low first in a T18 which you pretty much won't use in daily driving anyway.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
By the way, I feel I need to come clean. I'm hoping you choose a 5speed for this as I'm really interested in seeing the numbers on mpg when it's running. I'd love to go diesel in my chief, just want to see how it turns out.
How drivable, economy, maintenance issues, etc. I wonder if an intercooler would help much? Maybe play with the injection pump/turbo? I'm more interested in bomb proof reliability than race car feel but if it can be tweaked to have more get up and go...
tedlovesjeeps71 wrote:By the way, I feel I need to come clean. I'm hoping you choose a 5speed for this as I'm really interested in seeing the numbers on mpg when it's running. I'd love to go diesel in my chief, just want to see how it turns out.
How drivable, economy, maintenance issues, etc. I wonder if an intercooler would help much? Maybe play with the injection pump/turbo? I'm more interested in bomb proof reliability than race car feel but if it can be tweaked to have more get up and go...
I considered doing this swap and determined it was not for me and my Grand Wag. From talking to some people who have done swaps with these motors it is possible to tweak a few things for some more HP on the butt dyno but nothing too significant in real numbers. I think boost tops at about 6 or 8 PSI IIRC. Apparently there's a place in Europe you can send the injection pump to for a complete reworking which really livens things up but that's in the neighborhood of $1500. That's where I got off the train. At around a grand minimum for a motor, trans and adapters, plus $1500 for a tune, we were crossing over into Cummins 4BT numbers, and that's what I was leaning towards anyway.
I'm not opposed to doing full conversion down the road to maximize efficiency, but that will require cross member /mount, drive shafts, steering and axle changes. for the time being I would like to retain all of those things. So I decided to get the t18/d20. Not a bad purchase for $350... popped the top and it's beautiful, looked like new synchros too. The input shaft might be a little loose so front bearing may be needed if out of tolerance, we'll see.
Next on the list is adapter kit to get everything bolted up and check clearances. May have to trim oil pan and move heater core, and remote oil filter to clear booster and steering.
Then flywheel/clutch from 258 or 304. Need to figure out the balance requirements before that.
1964 willys wagoneer
Om617 turbo diesel
Ax15
Dana 300
3.73 dana 27 front
3.73 dana 44 rear
Some confusion about input shaft diameter though, for some reason they are only aware of 2 sizes .625, .670 and mines .750. Hopefully pilot bushing/bearing is all I need.
1964 willys wagoneer
Om617 turbo diesel
Ax15
Dana 300
3.73 dana 27 front
3.73 dana 44 rear
Awesome, let us know how the adapter works out and what happens with the input shaft. The merecedesdiesel4x4 guys are located only about an hour from me, I gotta go by and see their shop sometime!
I have the 5 cyl. Turbo motor from a 79 300sd, I'm planning to run with t18/d20 from gladiator. This setup was chosen for ease of installation. And not wanting to change drivelines or cross member. The gladiator t18 has a long input shaft and spacer between bell housing, this should move the motor far enough forward to have plenty of firewall clearance.
I had originally planned to use my existing transmission/tcase (as-8f/d21) but it is too tight and the borg warner as-8f is super rare, hard to find parts for.
The Dana 20 will replace the Dana 21 in same location, mount and drivelines bolt in.
I've ordered the mb209 adapter kit with .750 pilot.
AMC 258-6 flywheel
The 230 ohc clutch disc 1.125" 10 spline 10.4"
Looking into ordering
258 clutch cover
Pedal assembly
Hydraulic linkage
Planning to fabricate the motor mounts.
1964 willys wagoneer
Om617 turbo diesel
Ax15
Dana 300
3.73 dana 27 front
3.73 dana 44 rear