Stubborn tailgate latch 1987 GW

[KentuckyBuck]

I am looking for help in getting my tailgate open. The driver's side latch seems to be seized up. I have accessed it from the inside. I am not sure of the correct terms to use so I have attached a picture.

tailgatelatch.jpg

In normal operation, B keeps A from turning when the gate is correctly latched. When the latch handle is used to release the gate, B is moved away from A and allows A to turn (in this picture, A would turn clockwise) to allow the gate to open.

When I work the latch handle, the latch on the passenger side releases fine. The latch on drivers side won't budge. Part B is moved away from A but A won't turn. I have sprayed it several times with PB Blaster. I have tried throwing my weight against it from both sides as well as prying at it with screwdrivers and crowbars. I even cautiously whacked at it with a hand sledge. Because the passenger side releases, I am now in danger of skewing the tailgate.

On the inside, I have gently pried at part A with screwdrivers. The problem is there is no place to get a tool to bite so I can whack at it to force the rotation. I can't get pliers to grip the side of the wheel.

My last attempt was to drill small holes in each side of A (at 2 oclock and 8 oclock) so that I could get a spanner on it. I broke my drill bits almost immediately. I think this approach holds some promise but I am going to have to get more bits before I can try again.

When all else fails, I guess I will have to start thinking destructively. Maybe I can pry off the springs and get vice grips on the wheel?

I don't know what else to try. Does anybody have some guidance for me? Thanks.

[Tatsadasayago]

I believe the second arm, to the left of 'B' is a secondary latch. It is supposed to release it's dog when the main latch arm moves. The idea was to provide a second latch to prevent accidental unlatching.
It sounds to me like this secondary isn't releasing.
It's possible the latch shaft is rusted solid, but in my 40 years of FSJ'ing, I've never seen it happen.

[ShagWagon]

I'm sure you've tried tapping on it. It has a spring so it will have some torque in the right direction if the PB works. Sometimes it has to sit a while.

Also the other side where it latches to the bolt if you gears are freed you can probably force it loose by yanking and shoving on the tailgate till it goes in or out to work the latch on the bolt.

There's a spacer pin that has access on the backside frame of tailgate on both sides. It has a bolt that goes thru the tailgate frame with a pin that seats into the tailgate about halfway up the tailgate inside the cab. Take the nut off the pin/bolt and unscrew the threaded pin/bolt out. This should give you some free play slack to loosen up a latch by shoving the tailgate in and out.

Hope it can help!

[KentuckyBuck]

There's a spacer pin that has access on the backside frame of tailgate on both sides. It has a bolt that goes thru the tailgate frame with a pin that seats into the tailgate about halfway up the tailgate inside the cab. Take the nut off the pin/bolt and unscrew the threaded pin/bolt out. This should give you some free play slack to loosen up a latch by shoving the tailgate in and out.

I took a picture of the bolt that I think you are talking about. Is this correct?

IMG_2110.jpg

I have been spraying PB and pounding and prying on the tailgate. I have a grappling hook and a come-along...I am starting to consider those possibilities but I could see getting hurt real fast.

[Tatsadasayago]

That's it.
It's an alignment pin actually and one of it's purposes is to keep the closed tailgate in place when the body is twisted while wheeling.

I'm not sure how much fore/aft movement you will get by removing it, but it may be enough.

I suppose the worst case scenario is you might have to drill through the mounting screws from inside the gate so the latch assembly can move around.
Too weird of a situation I admit.

[Tatsadasayago]

Oh, and I believe you can access the gate hinges with the gate closed. You may have some fun removing the metal covers however. Probably have to remove the two forward screws and pry the cover up so you can get to the bolts. It's going to be tight if you are forced to go there.

Here are two photos of my rear gate with the covers removed, open and closed.
You may need to loosen them so you can move the gate around to unload the locking sprags on the body side.

[ShagWagon]

If you ge some wiggle room keep working the door in and out, and go tap,tap,tap,tap with a long screwdriver or favorite long tapping instrument of your choice on the inside next to the spring. Don't break the spring because it's applying torque in the right direction for if it does free up some. If it's seized it should come with some patience and working it free a lil at a time. Just want to get the force and vibration working.... Get in tap,tap,tap,tap. Get out and shove and pull, shove and pull. Get back in and tap,tap,tap.

That spacer pin thingy is threaded in the door metal and it has a nut on it I don't know if it threads out the backside or front I've never taken it completely out.

[ShagWagon]

Did you get a good look at the mechanism? Was it dry and cruddy looking or lubed looking? Or did you notice before you hosed it down with PB?

[KentuckyBuck]

Hi Shagwagon. The latch mechanism was pretty dry and crusty before I sprayed on the PB. I tap tap tap and yank yank pound then spray on some more PB. I'll keep doing it for the next week or so.

I looked close at the hinges. I am not sure I can pull that off. Here are some pix of the hinge inside and out.

IMG_2111.jpg

IMG_2112.jpg

Is there any advantage of taking off the access plates?...they are directly above the hinge but your pix show the bolts under the carpet. The hinges look as though the hinge pin can be removed...it is flanged on one side of the hinge but not on the other. Can the pin be pounded out?

I have also included a not so good focus picture of the offending latch mechanism. fwiw.

IMG_2115.jpg