tailgate widow questions

[ShagWagon]

This too if you do t get any action with just one wire at a time try red/green together or red/blue.

I'm not sure how your switch works but could be this to make circuits complete.

[Mustang Shooter]

Is there a wiring diagram for a 65 with power window?
I tried to look at OlJeep but my mobile didn't like it.
Tara, do you have a test light that you are using?

[tara]

good news, when connected directly, the window goes up easily, so i m rewiring everything and hope it will work

[ShagWagon]

I took apart my switches, cleaned them up and that made mine work. You'd be surprised how much corrosion and burnt stuff inside them makes your system not work. I use a qtip,marvel mystery oil, scotch brite, wire brush, sandpaper. Whatever gets all the copper clean.

Just make sure you are really careful and slow. There's lots of springs and rockers inside these. Open and work on it in a location where if you drop something you can find it. Pic help to r member where everything goes unless you have good memory. Rub some DI electric grease to keep them corrosion free for a longtime...

[tara]

if i connect direct to an extra battery it works , but if i connect to through the switch, it wont go up until the top, so what wiring do you advise to me ? install relay ?

[67GMC]

Repair all the ground wires by sanding to bare metal and reattaching with clean connectors. Check for shorts in the wiring harness where it comes through the back into the tail gate (it bends). I would get a voltmeter to see what the voltage is at various points to see if where it's dropping. If it goes faster when connected to a battery, then you have a problem between the switch and the motor. You just said it won't go to the top so I'm not sure if you mean it slows down and then just can't make it.

[tara]

yes, it stops 4" inch before reaching the top. it seams that with new 10 ga wires going from motor to switch it doesn't works better . the voltemeter gives me 12.4 at the red + coming from battery which i connect to new wires connected to motor, so why it works when connecting directly to a battery and doesn't work when connecting to + wire which has 12.4 V ?

[67GMC]

If you keep the voltmeter hooked up to the motor, see if the voltage drops while it's going up with the switch. You can test voltage at the switch too while doing this. The ground may still be the issue. The tailgate to body ground may not be great. Try hooking a temporary ground wire from a bare spot on the frame to the tail gate.

[ShagWagon]

Dirty switch? Did you take it apart and clean it?

Also curious if your slides are gunked up? Does glass slide easily all,the way up when not connected to the arm?

You can use one those alligator clips to test for a temp ground to see if yours is good. Or voltmeter...

Lol,tailgate fun!!!!!

[tara]

how do you use a voltmeter to test a ground ?

[ShagWagon]

I'm not an electrician but put the red electrode on the ground wire and the black one to a different ground and see what the voltage running down the ground wire is when you operate the window?

[candymancan]

This may sound stupid and i breifly browsed the thread... but is the window in the tracks ? Meaning the arms that push the window up the X arms.. There are two clips they goes in one on left and one on right (open the window lay it on a ladder or something so it doesnt break and look inside the tailgate on the X scizzor arms), and there are two metal retainers that hold the window on the clip... If the retainer popped off, the window wont be on the arm and thus cause the window to not go up properly.. My 90 a clip poped off and the window went up half way and stopped and i thought it was a weak motor or something

The clips look like this. Not sure if yours have these being how old it is

http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/tailga ... 1968-1991/


Also if this is a wiring issue where it doesnt work at the switch when on the cars battery, but works with a battery plugged directly to the window in the back.. Then i would seriously consider replacing all the wires from under the Jeep that power the windows. It runs under the bumper along the frame to the front.. Sounds like you have really old wires and i would bet somewhere in the line the wires are black which is basically cancer

[KentuckyBuck]

I just posted a small writeup about how I found my problem with low power to my windows. There might be something in it that you can use but my approach was to use a multimeter to trace the voltage drop in the wiring. If I was testing your system, I would make a long 8 to 10 gauge ground wire with clips that goes from the neg post on your battery to wherever you are testing. I'd start by measuring the volts across the neg and pos post of the battery when you are operating the window. Ideally it is the same voltage you would see if you were measuring the voltage across the neg and pos wires going into the actuator motor when you are operating the window but I am sure that there will be a voltage drop as a result of unexpected resistance somewhere in the wiring....I saw 3 volts drop in my system.

Now that you know the total voltage drop to your actuator, you need to start isolating where it occurs...and it could be multiple places. Do the easy spots first....like the battery to the starter relay...then the battery THROUGH the starter relay...etc. Do this by dragging your "bypass ground wire"...the long one with the clips...to wherever you are testing the voltage then measure the voltage between that ground wire and the test point (the battery side of the starter relay or the feed side of the relay or the fuse box or the up/down switch that controls the window). Remember that you have to observe the drop when the window is being activated. At some point, you will find a segment of the power circuit that is suspect. You can strip off some insulation from the wire without cutting the wire but do this with the neg post disconnected from the jeeps main ground wire to avoid a surprise shock.

My voltage drop ended up being in the segment between the starter relay and the fuse box. I traced the power wire to the point where it goes into the bulkhead connector on the engine side of the firewall...on the other side of the firewall as the fuse panel. It is helpful to use a clamp on ammeter to find the wire in a bundle of wires but it can be done manually or with color coded wires. Wiring schematics for my vehicle showed that the wire for my windows went from the bulkhead connector to the ignition switch then back to the fuse panel, through a 30A breaker and on to the window switch in the driver side door but as I said, I had already verified that I had seen the voltage drop by the time the power got to the 30A breaker. So I knew the drop was either in the wiring or the ignition switch. The wiring was less suspicious than the switch so I focused on replacing the switch and when I did, the problem was resolved.

Many people would fix the problem by running new wires, switches and fuses/breakers directly to the troublesome actuator motor. DONT DO THAT. Finding the root problem and fixing it is really so much easier than routing new wires etc from the battery to the device.

BTW, I use a Mastech MS2108 multimeter. It is reasonably priced and has a clamp on ammeter.

Also FYI...if you have a fuse (vs breaker) in the circuit, you can test the voltage drop at the fuse panel with the fuse in place. If it is a breaker, there aren't any test points and it is difficult to test that location with the breaker in place. You have two options...replace the breaker with a fuse (with test points) or buy the little "add a circuit" device and plug it into the fuse panel between the breaker and the panel. It gives you a test point and you can test the voltage drop there.

Good luck...post questions if you are confused by any of this. Oh...make sure you repair any wiring that you have to strip in your testing. It will go bad over time if you leave it exposed.

[tara]

thanks a lot for sharing this knowledge, i will try this asap