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the window closes very slowly and cannot reach the top, i have look closely at the channel and it is okay the window slides correctly inside. even if you lift the window outside the body channel, it won't rise to the maximum.
i have check too for a bad ground, but it is okay.
so what test can i do now to check the motor, or the switch or the wires ? may be should install 2 relays to boost that ??
Hey Tara,
Did you replace your seals?
I ran into a similar problem when I replaced the rear window seal in my uncles Bronco.
I let it sit outside in the hot sun for an afternoon after wiping the seal down with a silicone spray.
It went from slowing and binding up about 3/4 up to increasing speed and completely sealing.
He has entered had any problems with it and it's been several years since it was done.
I will be replacing mine hopefully by summer end.
Dan
Mustang Shooter wrote:Hey Tara,
Did you replace your seals?
I ran into a similar problem when I replaced the rear window seal in my uncles Bronco.
I let it sit outside in the hot sun for an afternoon after wiping the seal down with a silicone spray.
It went from slowing and binding up about 3/4 up to increasing speed and completely sealing.
He has entered had any problems with it and it's been several years since it was done.
I will be replacing mine hopefully by summer end.
Dan
no i haven't yet replace the seal. ans as i have reported even with the tail gate slightly opened and the windows raising outside the channel, it won't lift at the maximum height, about half way only
Sorry, I don't know about that motor.
From your pic, is your motor a cable drive? It looks different than the one in my 84.
I'll pm you a pic of mine.
Maybe one of the other guys knows if the gate power windows units varied by series.
What happens if you bypass the safety arm with the table gate down and have someone keep an eye on the glass while the switch is activated?
Does it go all the way out?
Dan
Ok, so I'm not smart enough that use the pm with a pic, so here it is.
This was taken from the driver side with the gate down and window extended.
Is your regulator from a late series?
If there are no differences in the regulator series, could yours be assembled wrong?
I'm looking at the motor orientation between the two.
Where are the lift arms located in relation to the motor when they are in the lowered position?
If the regulators are different by series, is there anything in the side channel in the tailgate that could stop the glass from extending?
Not too familiar w 60's set up, it should not be too different from the 70's. yours look totally different with the motor above the gears.
Is the engine running when you lift the glass, meaning that you have full voltage? If you are running on battery power , the last few inches is when a weak battery will show its limit, or a bad ground, which is on the frame behind the bumper driver's side, you can check the positive feed as well in the same area.
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
Take another 12v battery( like out of the lawnmower or something if you have one) fashion 2 small alligator clipped wires and clip them to the prongs inside the plug of the motor. Hook one wire to battery post, then touch the other wire to the other post. Window will go up or down. Switch battery posts to change direction. That will tell you if you have lost continuity on the way to motor or if motors bad or other lube problem.
Can also use these clips to ground it somewhere else to check your ground wire.
87 Grand Wagoneer Rebuilt 360 by S&J, Fitech GO EFI 600, Novak in-tank fuel pump, Skyjacker Hydro 4" lift, BFG AT KO2 30", Dynamax Muffler, MSD distributor, MSD ignition, Edlebrock perf 4bbl intake, Elgin perf cam, Oil tube mod, Roller rockers, chrome molly lifters, HD alum radiator, Powermaster 150/100 alt, Alum HD water pump, Serhills tailgate harness, Cowl screen mod, Evil Twin grab handles, Rstep's custom AMC door lock knobs, all electrical works.
I wonder if a newer model motor would fit that gearing?
If so you could replace it and take the old one apart and try to refurbish it, then resell the newer one if you do, and an oh well if you break it or its shot.
I never even thought that they could have a power tailgate window in '65 lolz...
I can just picture some model all dressed up in a mini skirt like Star Trek modeling the hi-tech auto device in a black and white television commercial.
87 Grand Wagoneer Rebuilt 360 by S&J, Fitech GO EFI 600, Novak in-tank fuel pump, Skyjacker Hydro 4" lift, BFG AT KO2 30", Dynamax Muffler, MSD distributor, MSD ignition, Edlebrock perf 4bbl intake, Elgin perf cam, Oil tube mod, Roller rockers, chrome molly lifters, HD alum radiator, Powermaster 150/100 alt, Alum HD water pump, Serhills tailgate harness, Cowl screen mod, Evil Twin grab handles, Rstep's custom AMC door lock knobs, all electrical works.
I had a problem with my window going up to the top. It was the pins that slide in the window base channel catching on the inner edge of the tailgate opening. I got on the inside while I had someone turn the key, and pushed outward on the glass as it it went up. The pins cleared the sheet metal and it went all the way up.
Mines only got two wires to the actual motor. Others are used for window defroster.
I'm no electrician and haven't worked on your style motor before but here's what I'd try...
Be sure it's isolated from the rest of your electrical system so you don't short out you switch or something somehow.
I would start with ground wire to neg on battery.
Then clip a wire to your + on battery and touch it to the other wires one at a time completing the circuits to learn what they do. Make sure not to get yourself or any wires caught in any mechanisms if the window goes up or down. This way you can tell if your motor is strong and working like it should or if you have some other problem somewhere else like a switch, ground wire, weak continuity to the motor.
One may be up, one down, and the other one self-destruct.
87 Grand Wagoneer Rebuilt 360 by S&J, Fitech GO EFI 600, Novak in-tank fuel pump, Skyjacker Hydro 4" lift, BFG AT KO2 30", Dynamax Muffler, MSD distributor, MSD ignition, Edlebrock perf 4bbl intake, Elgin perf cam, Oil tube mod, Roller rockers, chrome molly lifters, HD alum radiator, Powermaster 150/100 alt, Alum HD water pump, Serhills tailgate harness, Cowl screen mod, Evil Twin grab handles, Rstep's custom AMC door lock knobs, all electrical works.