Full Size Jeep Network

Might need to shim the slave, it’s hard to say until you try it

Trimmed the collar 1/8", as far as I could determine with a tape measure I only needed 1/16" .
But I don't want to have to take this off again.

I've not been getting much done, it's a little hot and had been for some time now. Should be in the nineties for one day later this week and back into triple digits for another who knows how long.

Greetings from Oklahoma

Feeling your pain lol

Here in AZ too.
Took my '81 CJ5 out for an errand this morning at 100* about 9:30am
Why can't that be the high for the day?

it is always too much or not enough... here, on the left coast in SF, it barely hits 63F... fleece and coverall with beanie while doing FSJ work... and yes the furnace kicks in every evening... for AC we open the windows... as visiting friends have said... you live in the AC duct.
On the afternoon errand yesterday, my helmet visor was covered with a thin layer of mist... and my jeans almost soaked with water...
I volunteered to fix a motorbike... on the east side, but the condition is that the temp drops below 90F

So I've managed to get it in place however I've got some questions.

Can anyone tell me the difference in flywheel between 4.0 and 258. I know the 258 is 1/4" thicker and neutral balance.

It's the 4.0 neutral balance?

I found a good write up on ax15 install behind 258 and it was recommended to use 4.0 flywheel because of difference in thickness.

So every thing has gone in and functioning. the rear drive shaft is a little bit long and will need to be trimmed, the front did not need to be cut but it's too late now.
Going to need to adjust those.

Having driven it around a bit I'm definitely wanting to change the gearing, but as I was buttoning up the front clip body mounts (which have been unbolted since I put the diesel in) I developed a coolant leak from the radiator.

So shopping for radiator now, I'm thinking of using one from a Nissan z32 but gonna have to trim the core support.

I used one from a Celica cause it fit and had appropriate hose sizes but it's just a bit undersized so I'm hoping the z32 will offer better cooling.

It's there any other radiator option for a 60's wagon with a Saginaw steering box up front?

Radiator inlet outlet both 1.5" ish, both passenger side

Inspection cover taking shape

Hey brother. My name is Justin. I'm starting an OM606 swap. Was wondering if I could pick your brain about engine mounts. How can I contact you? Your build looks great!

Volvoguy wrote: ↑Fri Oct 20, 2023 4:09 am Hey brother. My name is Justin. I'm starting an OM606 swap. Was wondering if I could pick your brain about engine mounts. How can I contact you? Your build looks great!

Sorry been a while I'll pm you

Got some gears near ready. Pulled the 4.88 r&p out of a very narrow cj Dana 27a that I got for spare parts and I got a new thick set for the Dana 44.

4.88s were optional for the CJ with the 225 V6, '66-71. Not overly common; 3.73s were standard. The rear would be a 44 and would work for you with the proper case. A new case is less expensive than new gears. Also commonly came with a Powr-Lock... mmm. Very narrow? That's the CJ track width. Went 2" wider in '72 with open knuckles for a smaller turning radius.

tgreese wrote: ↑Thu Nov 30, 2023 6:22 pm 4.88s were optional for the CJ with the 225 V6, '66-71. Not overly common; 3.73s were standard. The rear would be a 44 and would work for you with the proper case. A new case is less expensive than new gears. Also commonly came with a Powr-Lock... mmm. Very narrow? That's the CJ track width. Went 2" wider in '72 with open knuckles for a smaller turning radius.

It's narrower than my narrow track wagoneer, that's all I meant. It's a close knuckle(donor). I've got new thick gears for the rear cause I've already got some money (lunch box) in the 3.73 carrier and I wanna keep it.

I've got the closed knuckle 27a in the wagoneer and the turning radius is pretty good unless it's front wheel drive low range. Then I need a 5 point turn in a cul-de-sac otherwise in rear high it's no problem

Got a question, can I pull the yokes off my Dana 20 and install them in my Dana 300?

Both 300 yokes are strap and the front one leaks, I pulled the front off to change the seal and it looked like that's where the po stored gravel. I cleaned it up and put a new seal but it still leaks.


So I could use my old ones maybe I dunno

So I purchased some u bolt type yokes for the
Dana 300 from crown p# d300-yoke-ubk.

These are not compatible for my application without changing dust covers, had to use my old ones. But I got the front one done hoping this solves my leak.

]

Can't swap dust cover? Or open up holes in old joint to take u-bolt and spot face the other side for the nuts? Or mod dust cover or even run without?

I rarely install the dust covers. I find them to be dirt holder inners, but that’s probably just me

The old one had a groove and would leak past a new seal.
i was able to swap dust covers but there is a size difference, the new one is larger.
fortunately I was able to stretch out the old one.
the black dust cover in the last photo is the old one installed on the new yoke.