Full Size Jeep Network

Posted: **Sat Jul 22, 2023 5:46 am**

Well...

Bought an ax15 external slave housing on eBay from
Crushtheorge.

When I got the housing I noticed some fractional hardware "installed" in slave cylinder mounting threads. I took the bolts out to find some really boogered threads.

So I called them up to find out what could be done about it, and after being treated like an idiot for not just installing it, he said "just return it then" and hung up on me.

This has been hands down the worst eBay seller I've dealt with.

[youtube]https://youtu.be/S2LoDWuqaFY[/youtube]

Posted: **Sat Jul 22, 2023 12:32 pm**

Hope you're following ebay's instructions for dealing with the seller on damaged goods. You shouldn't pay for the shipping to send it back.

I see there's a remnant of a bolt. looks like there's a broken bolt and the drill walked when he tried to drill it out.

So the new hole is off center from the cylinder's hole?

Posted: **Sun Jul 23, 2023 10:05 am**

Feel free to use this Libre/OpenOffice spreadsheet if it helps you. The calc's you are interested in are on sheet 3, EstimatedPowerRequirements.

Change the values in the light blue boxes in Column A to see what power level you will need. Values to change include the vehicle weight, headwind, percent grade of the hill, tire height/width, air temp, dew point, barometric air pressure, desired road speed and estimated drive train efficiency.

The pink column of values in column E will show the HP requirements at the crank and the rear wheels. This will be displayed in green/orange/red based on if the engine's power output in sheet 2 indicates there is enough HP to fulfill the request.

The current value in the Co-efficient of drag is from the manufacturer listed Wagoneer coefficient of drag minus some penalty points for lifting, which is mainly a wild guess.

Sheet 2 is the Estimate Power Output of the engine I am using, a 4bt. Sheet 1 is my gearing calcs.

Posted: **Sun Jul 23, 2023 3:16 pm**

SJTD wrote: ↑Sat Jul 22, 2023 12:32 pm Hope you're following ebay's instructions for dealing with the seller on damaged goods. You shouldn't pay for the shipping to send it back.

I see there's a remnant of a bolt. looks like there's a broken bolt and the drill walked when he tried to drill it out.

So the new hole is off center from the cylinder's hole?

Yes that bell housing is trash, I can fix it but I'd prefer another one.

I spoke with the seller and he was pretty unpleasant person to talk to.

On the phone he seemed to be under the impression that it's just fine.

So that's where I'm at with it

Posted: **Mon Jul 24, 2023 9:16 am**

Been a while but I think you open a case with ebay and contact him through ebay and ask for the return shipper he should be paying for since it's damaged. I wouldn't even have called him.

Posted: **Mon Jul 24, 2023 4:47 pm**

He put a business card in the box, I wanted to know how it could happen. It was intentional.

He "fixed" it. He also hung up on me

So I've been kinda busy blasting him on social media.

Posted: **Tue Jul 25, 2023 4:42 pm**

Some progress today,
Shortened my original front driveshaft to accommodate the Dana 300.

[/img]

DSC_1849~2.JPG

[/img]

Posted: **Wed Jul 26, 2023 12:10 am**

DSC_1848~3.JPG

Managed to get u useable part out of it.

Posted: **Wed Jul 26, 2023 8:52 am**

Quick question for the team. I have an AX15 behind my V8 Cherokee and noticed that there isn't a TO bearing return spring . Is this because the release of the clutch peddle and fluid movement will pull the TO bearing off the clutch? IDK, I installed it 7 years ago but I've never driven it. Because , it sat as a project and then needed a rebuilt motor after I had two bent push rods. So, my question is. Does it need a TO bearing return spring?

Posted: **Wed Jul 26, 2023 10:16 am**

rocklaurence wrote: ↑Wed Jul 26, 2023 8:52 am Quick question for the team. I have an AX15 behind my V8 Cherokee and noticed that there isn't a TO bearing return spring . Is this because the release of the clutch peddle and fluid movement will pull the TO bearing off the clutch? IDK, I installed it 7 years ago but I've never driven it. Because , it sat as a project and then needed a rebuilt motor after I had two bent push rods. So, my question is. Does it need a TO bearing return spring?

That's a good question, truth is I don't know and I hadn't considered it.
Might be beneficial to figure out prior to assembly however, I still need an input shaft seal and
a new t.o.b. before I get this thing mounted.
And a longer rear drive shaft.

What is the break down on vehicles with 1310 joints.

I'm probably gonna need to find a 1/2 ton long bed to get a long enough shaft to cut down.

Posted: **Wed Jul 26, 2023 10:21 am**

I appreciate the link, this will likely come in handy, thank you.

Pablo wrote: ↑Sun Jul 23, 2023 10:05 am Feel free to use this Libre/OpenOffice spreadsheet if it helps you. The calc's you are interested in are on sheet 3, EstimatedPowerRequirements.

Change the values in the light blue boxes in Column A to see what power level you will need. Values to change include the vehicle weight, headwind, percent grade of the hill, tire height/width, air temp, dew point, barometric air pressure, desired road speed and estimated drive train efficiency.

The pink column of values in column E will show the HP requirements at the crank and the rear wheels. This will be displayed in green/orange/red based on if the engine's power output in sheet 2 indicates there is enough HP to fulfill the request.

The current value in the Co-efficient of drag is from the manufacturer listed Wagoneer coefficient of drag minus some penalty points for lifting, which is mainly a wild guess.

Sheet 2 is the Estimate Power Output of the engine I am using, a 4bt. Sheet 1 is my gearing calcs.

Posted: **Wed Jul 26, 2023 10:25 am**

So with the t-case in 4 hi is there any risk of driving with just the front axle?

Posted: **Wed Jul 26, 2023 10:41 am**

230ohc wrote: ↑Wed Jul 26, 2023 10:25 am So with the t-case in 4 hi is there any risk of driving with just the front axle?

Not particularly, it can cause some weird handling but that is really the only real issue.

As for the throw out bearing question. As long as the original application for the bearing is for a hydraulic clutch there is no issue not having a return spring, it is designed to function with a small bit of pressure causing it to spin continuously. If it was the original for the manual linkage truck it is not designed to continuously spin causing premature failure. The small bit of pressure is what makes the hydraulic clutch never need adjusting, it is in a constant state of adjustment.

Posted: **Wed Jul 26, 2023 11:40 am**

Pablo wrote: ↑Sun Jul 23, 2023 10:05 am Feel free to use this Libre/OpenOffice spreadsheet if it helps you. The calc's you are interested in are on sheet 3, EstimatedPowerRequirements.

Change the values in the light blue boxes in Column A to see what power level you will need. Values to change include the vehicle weight, headwind, percent grade of the hill, tire height/width, air temp, dew point, barometric air pressure, desired road speed and estimated drive train efficiency.

The pink column of values in column E will show the HP requirements at the crank and the rear wheels. This will be displayed in green/orange/red based on if the engine's power output in sheet 2 indicates there is enough HP to fulfill the request.

The current value in the Co-efficient of drag is from the manufacturer listed Wagoneer coefficient of drag minus some penalty points for lifting, which is mainly a wild guess.

Sheet 2 is the Estimate Power Output of the engine I am using, a 4bt. Sheet 1 is my gearing calcs.

This is a neat idea. I will check out your spreadsheets when I have time to reconcile your format with the ancient copy of Excel on my home machine. I may need to open with a more modern Excel and save to .xls. Or maybe Google Sheets will open your files ... no time right now.

Posted: **Thu Jul 27, 2023 4:21 pm**

rocklaurence wrote: ↑Wed Jul 26, 2023 8:52 am Quick question for the team. I have an AX15 behind my V8 Cherokee and noticed that there isn't a TO bearing return spring . Is this because the release of the clutch peddle and fluid movement will pull the TO bearing off the clutch? IDK, I installed it 7 years ago but I've never driven it. Because , it sat as a project and then needed a rebuilt motor after I had two bent push rods. So, my question is. Does it need a TO bearing return spring?

I'm not seeing a provision for return, must rely on pressure plate?

Got new seals installed. Getting closer.

Posted: **Thu Jul 27, 2023 4:51 pm**

I would look in the parts books. There are factory parts books on the Tom Collins site. The 81J book there covers '81-84 and would cover the T-176. The transfer is not great but its free to read and download. The '74-80 book is available at RockAuto on media for ca $25. '80 was the first year for the T-176 in Jeeps.

Posted: **Thu Jul 27, 2023 10:33 pm**

Posted: **Fri Jul 28, 2023 4:31 am**

No return. Yes it relies on the the pressure plate. That is how it stays continuously adjusted

Posted: **Mon Jul 31, 2023 9:23 am**

Yeller wrote: ↑Fri Jul 28, 2023 4:31 am No return. Yes it relies on the the pressure plate. That is how it stays continuously adjusted

Thanks for that I assumed as much.

Looks like I'm going to need to trim the collar, it's hitting the disc. And if that is the case I might need to space the slave equal length?

Posted: **Mon Jul 31, 2023 10:48 am**

Thanks, I couldnt find anything stating that it needed a spring.

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