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Tires are not necessarily priced on the amount of material used, its more based on the rest of the market. As a rule,a 17" tire would could also be a more modern design in a newer mold or possibly built in a newer factory. Also, there's been lots of subsidies on import tires over the past 10 years, even though they have run out or been reduced, the tire prices have remained high.
REDONE you pretty much nailed it on your price theory. A Chinee aluminum wheel landed in the US is probably 50 bucks. They are cheaper to ship because you can fit more in a 40 foot container than larger diameters.
Finally made a decision for wheels and tires, went with 16x10 MT’s and 35x12.5 tires to get backside clearance used 1” spacers from BJ’s, didn’t want to use spacer but just couldn’t get the look I wanted, in the mean time wrapping up details almost ready to fire it up and looking for someone to cut and Buff the paint
Be aware that they're not anodized or cleared so you have to keep them waxed.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
I looked at those, just didn't want the beadlock look, there were lots of wheels that would have been just fine, but i must admit I'm a victim of my youth and the polished dish was desirable, plus the paint and trim is so dark they contrast with each other, looking forward to seeing the J10 with the grille installed, cheers
BTW, seems everytime I post from Tapatalk get a double post
sonoraed wrote:I looked at those, just didn't want the beadlock look, there were lots of wheels that would have been just fine, but i must admit I'm a victim of my youth and the polished dish was desirable, plus the paint and trim is so dark they contrast with each other, looking forward to seeing the J10 with the grille installed, cheers
BTW, seems everytime I post from Tapatalk get a double post
Yeah, There is an issue someplace that I am trying to track down
Since I didn't take my own advice they look bad. I can plead ignorance somewhat since I didn't know at first.
But to be honest in the 15 years or so that I've had the CJ I've never washed it so the wheels got the same attention.
Good choice on avoiding what I call the "beadlooks".
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
SJTD wrote:Since I didn't take my own advice they look bad. I can plead ignorance somewhat since I didn't know at first.
But to be honest in the 15 years or so that I've had the CJ I've never washed it so the wheels got the same attention.
Good choice on avoiding what I call the "beadlooks".
For somebody that offroads around the rocks here, rock rings are great. The outer edge of the typical aluminum wheel it very easy to crack. A rock ring prevents this. And nicer wheels (Like Level 8 Pro's) have a removable rock ring. So when it gets damaged, you can take it off and either repair or replace it. But yes, there are many wheels that have the beadlock look but also don't have a rock ring.
If that's a removable ring I rescind my comment. Didn't know there was suchy of a thing as a removable ring on a conventional wheel.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
SJTD wrote:I wonders how much replacement rings cost.
The steel ones ProComp has on some of their wheels are pretty cheap. The Level 8 ones are a high impact resin (so that they are light), and I would not expect them to be much. But of the guys I have seen with them, nobody has needed to replace them. They hold up amazingly well.