Additional Rear Wheel Bearing Questions

[twmattox]

1) So, I used a slide hammer to remove the axle and bearing. I assume there is some kind of internal puller I can attach to the slide hammer to remove the race?

2) When removing the retainer, all of the bolts spun. I couldn't get a wrench or socket to fit on the head of the bolt (the axle tubes were in the way). I managed to grab the end with vice grips and with a good bit of effort. I am a bit more worried about installation. How do you guys keep the bolts from spinning?

3) Reinstalling the axle; I assume I just evenly tighten the bolts on the retaining ring and it forces the bearing and seal into the axle tube? The only other option I could see would be possibly using the slide hammer in reverse to drive it all in?

4) Finally, the nuts used on the retaining ring... I have read in the Factory Service Manual that these are NOT TO BE RE-USED. So, I am assuming it is some special kind of nut? Where do I get replacements??


Thanks everyone. I realize these are probably pretty simple questions. Just a bit different than I have worked on before. Thanks!!!

[Stuka]

The race from inside the axle tube can be pulled (there is an adapter for some pullers to do this). I think I ended up making one out of some flat stock.

I have never had that issue with the nuts. Always used an open end wrench, fits right on. Maybe yours were really rusted? They should be replaced with new lock nuts. Actually, I would replace the bolts and nuts.

The axle shaft should slide all the way in without much effort. You will have to spin it some to align the splines on the end of the shaft. But you should not have issues seating it in.

They say to replace them because lock nuts are one time usage. Note these are not the teflon style lock nut, but the mishaped ones.

Are you having somebody replace the bearing and lock ring for you?

[wewillsurvive]

I found a puller at AUtozone and rented it, it was the only parts shop near that had what I needed. Just did this same job.

[twmattox]

Thanks. I had the local machine shop press the old bearings off and the new ones on (For $40 it was worth it). I figured getting the race out wouldn't be different from the AMC-20s I have worked on. Installation seems to be easier though. You said they should just slide right in? Seems odd that the bearings fit so snugly that you need a puller to remove them (and the race) but that they will just slide right in. I know on the AMC-20 sometimes it would take a brass drift and the seal would always need pressed in by the retainer plate.

Thanks. Figure I will get these done on Friday.

[twmattox]

Ugh... So, I apparently forgot to mark each axle. They appear to be different lengths? Any idea which side gets the longer one??

[csuengr]

Easy to tell. If you have them swapped wrong, one won't go in all the way and the other won't engage the splines.

[twmattox]

Oh, I know my luck. I will put the short one in the long side, button it up, and then realize I need to pull it...ruin the seal...and have to start all over...

[carnuck]

I switched mine out for the one piece bearings.

[chevelleguy]

Seems odd that the bearings fit so snugly that you need a puller to remove them (and the race) but that they will just slide right in.

It's not the bearing that is tight, it's the seal.

[twmattox]

Ok, one last set of questions. I have been to several hardware stores and nobody can get those nuts. So, any issue with re-using them with some lock tite?

That's what I ended up having to do with the nuts holding on the front axle spindles.