cs-144 install wiring question

[berettajeep]

I know it has been beat to death and I can't find or understand what I need to wire it correctly.


Everything is in the '74 Cherokee (401). Alternator for '86 Buick. Adapter plug wire so I have only two wires to hook up. My understanding is #2 red wire goes to the battery post or battery side of solenoid. #1 white wire is confusing me where to connect. I read to a resistor, a light, ignition run wire, etc; etc;...


Where should I connect it too? It is becoming over welming.


Cherokee 401, HEI installed. Was a Motorola Alternator with external regulator. Now a CS-144. AMP gauge removed and volt meter installed.

[berettajeep]

Diagram I drew up.




The only part that I am not sure about is wire #1 off alternator. ( It is the adapter plug that has a resistor in it already)

My ignition switch and where each wire goes.

Reading on the interwebs says to go to a non fused ignition, a fused ignition, the idiot light, ???


My factory schematic shows the cluster plug on the gauges with an "ignition"






So i am not sure where to hook up wire #1.

[Fleg]

I'll just tell you what I did (that works). I had a post on the mothersite about my troubles with that same problem. I assume you have the Napa or whatever your favorite autoparts store is that adapts your harness to the CS144. Verify that harness has resistance built into that wire. Mine was really high, near 500 Ohms. Then that white wire is supposed to plug into a brown wire that is ignition hot. Mine was damaged so I went ahead and wired that to a switched 12V source instead.

[berettajeep]

Thank you. I don't have a brown wire... I have a red wire that had a fusible link in it that went to the coil. I cut the link out and used it to a relay for the HEI. I spliced into this to also go to the electric choke on the carburetor. The only other wires in that part of the harness are for the A/C compressor; Temperature sending unit; oil pressure sending unit and to the starter solenoid.

[serehill]

The #1 wire could go straight to the relay contact feeding the coil. It needs to operate exactly the same as the coil.



Kind of over complicating this a little. The wire to #2 can come right off the back of the alternator where the other wire goes to the solenoid. Follow the circuit they are the same. The redundant run does nothing for you. It just adds more mess.

You can put a resistor in line or better yet get a coil that does not require a resistor. Good time to swap it out for a good quality coil.

extra info
http://www.chargerr.com/Alternators/ALT.HTM

http://hartin.com/alternator.htm

In some case you need to do this:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/thre ... ey.389737/

[berettajeep]

The #1 wire could go straight to the relay contact feeding the coil. It needs to operate exactly the same as the coil.



Kind of over complicating this a little. The wire to #2 can come right off the back of the alternator where the other wire goes to the solenoid. Follow the circuit they are the same. The redundant run does nothing for you. It just adds more mess.

You can put a resistor in line or better yet get a coil that does not require a resistor. Good time to swap it out for a good quality coil.

extra info
http://www.chargerr.com/Alternators/ALT.HTM

http://hartin.com/alternator.htm

In some case you need to do this:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/thre ... ey.389737/

Thanks Rick.

I don't have a external coil since going to HEI.

Oh and I over complicate things all the time, I think part of my brain hates me and likes to torture me

[Nikkormat]

74 TSM to the rescue!

OK, bear with me here this might be confusing.

Your going to need a .82 ohm resistor to trigger the excite part of the circuit. The old motorala regulator has one in it. Or if you don't want it kicking around on your fender anymore you can buy one at radio shack and wire it into the harness. But that seems kind of stupid to me, the one in the Motorola unit is better quality than cheapies available today and reusing it doesn't require wiring harness modifications.

There is a female spade connector on the same side of the alternator as the output lug. This connects to that resistor I mentioned earlier. This wire will become your #1 wire. #2 will connect to the battery lug or the battery side of the solenoid. That comes down to preference. The angled two spade connector can be left to dangle or zip tied out of the way. The old positive wire will be connected to the positive on the new alternator. It feeds the cab with power.

Next buy a solenoid to starter cable (battery cable with ring terminals at both ends) in a 14 inch length. Run this from the positive lug on the alt to the battery side of the solenoid.

Have you purchased the alternator yet? 12si's are cheap, plentiful, and easy to wire. A 95 amp can be acquired for $60 at the auto parts store.

[serehill]

No problem. A coil is a coil no matter if it HEI but it's not resisted your correct on that so it's good to move on. I hope you're not trying to connect the Motorola regulator what a waste.