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Lumpskie wrote:csuengr: You're probably right but you can still fit a 10" travel shock with only 2" of lift, can't you? If I can max out the travel of a 10" 5125, I'd be pretty happy with my flex. (somehow I doubt I'd be able to get that much travel though)
Nikkormat: You mind posting a link to the thread you're looking at?
I don't mean to exasperate you guys... I just really had my heart set on a really low lift. I really appreciate your input.
Only way you are going to fit a shock that is that long is by changing out your mounts and putting it an a steeper angle.
GWag89 wrote:FSJs are low riders in the 4x4 world. It takes 4-6" of lift just to get to the stock ride height of other full size rigs like broncos and blazers.
My rig with 6" of lift setting on bald 29s is basically level at the rocker with my dad's 84 bronco stock with 31s.
You will be disappointed with anything less than a 4" spring lift imo
Yeah but FSJs have a flat belly. The t-case on the others that competed with it hang WAY below the frame. So you need to measure from the lowest point to compare.
I loved that about my Cherokee, the roof line was one of the lowest in the parking lot but it had the biggest tires and by far the most ground clearance.
So, it looks like we've got a consensus on 4" springs and no shackle flip. From the pictures, the suspension gets a decent amount of flex on that setup and it should be fine for the light, expedition style, trail duty the waggy is going to see.
Stuka wrote:
Lumpskie wrote: but you can still fit a 10" travel shock with only 2" of lift, can't you? If I can max out the travel of a 10" 5125, I'd be pretty happy with my flex.
Only way you are going to fit a shock that is that long is by changing out your mounts and putting it an a steeper angle.
Do any of you guys have the compressed/extended lengths of the shocks you're running? I was planning on running Bilstein 5125s with a 15"-15.5" compressed length and a ~26" extended length. I got my numbers from here: http://www.rustysoffroad.com/rustys-rx1 ... rx-26.html
As always, thanks for your patience and help with my noob questions.
1989 Grand Wagoneer - Rebuilt 360, 2" Alcans, 10" travel Gabriel Guadian shocks.
1996 Land Cruiser - 1HD-T Diesel, Gturbo (23psi), Wholesale Automatics 442f, F/R ARBs, 35" Duratracs, ARB Rear Bumper, OME 2" lift, home built sliders and aluminum belly skid
2000 Honda Civic - Integra GSR engine, transmission, shift linkage and axles, 200hp, 33 combined mpg
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 9 - 437hp/447ft-lb
Go 4" and 32" tires. That would be my suggestion. Here's my old '88 with a Rusty's 4" and 33". I did some trimming and still had a bit of rub, but look cool as hell!.
OK. One more question. What about the front shackle reverse? Is that something worth doing at the same time? Alcan will make my springs any height I want them, so I could have them built for a level truck when I'm done.
1989 Grand Wagoneer - Rebuilt 360, 2" Alcans, 10" travel Gabriel Guadian shocks.
1996 Land Cruiser - 1HD-T Diesel, Gturbo (23psi), Wholesale Automatics 442f, F/R ARBs, 35" Duratracs, ARB Rear Bumper, OME 2" lift, home built sliders and aluminum belly skid
2000 Honda Civic - Integra GSR engine, transmission, shift linkage and axles, 200hp, 33 combined mpg
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 9 - 437hp/447ft-lb
Shackle reversals are an expensive solution to a problem that doesn't exist. You won't get more flex. You will have to replace your front drive shaft for a long travel version.
1977 Cherokee S, Ford 5.0, 5 speed, BW 1356, 33 x 10.50 BFG's. No longer my DD.
2007 Mercury Milan, 2.3L, 5-speed, now my DD. 29 mpg average.
They are supposed to help the ride, with the shackle moved to the rear the axle moves back when you hit a bump instead of forward. I think it helps a lot on the smaller rigs but not so much on our big ole things, from what I have heard. There is also a school of thought that flipping the shackle isn't as good for offroading, mostly rock crawling, because when compressing the spring with the shackle up front it actually pushes the tire into the object with more force therefor giving more traction.
Lumpskie wrote:I wonder if I can pull a leaf out of each pack and get a softer ride and lower the lift down just a bit.
This has been discussed repeatedly on the motherboard back in the day, but I don't know of anyone that's done it. Closest I can recall (and probably misremembering at that) is someone pulling leaves from M715 leafpacks in either an M715 to soften the ride or in a J something thousand for a lift... don't remember how it turned out...
I say go for it!
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.
I'm running the Rusty's 4". I don't know the exact milage on them. Compared to my buddies Wagoneer with stock springs it rides rough. I don't think it's that bad though. Still have sway bars and trac bars installed.
The Fleet:
1967 J3000 (258/T18/D20, MC 2100)
1972 240Z (heading under the knife )
1978 Corvette (wife's HS project)
1987 Grand Wagoneer (Howell TBI 360 HEI, Thorley headers, Edelbrock intake, 727 NP208, Rustys 4")
2013 Subaru WRX