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I'm in the planning phase of my impending 5.3 swap in my 90 GW, and I'm trying to decide what transfer case is the best for my needs and budget.
Keeping the stocker (NP229, i think, right?) Seems appealing on a number of levels, of course there's the $500-600 adapter to take into account, along with disassembling the 4L60E.
However, I see a lot of people going to other cases, and I'm curious why you chose that route?
I looked at both the adapter and the Chevy T-case and opted for the Chevy T-case. I expect to have to do some driveshaft work anyway, and the Chevy NP 229 was less than the adapter, so I think I'm money ahead. Time will tell.
A Chevy NP241C t-case would be easiest and cheapest. No adapter needed. And the speed sensor in the tail shaft would be perfect for the computer to control the transmission. The computer needs to know when to shift the transmission and it gets that from the speed sensor. You'll have to figure out a way to tap into the speedometer output of the computer to drive a speedo on your dash but that's cheaper than adapting a non-Chevy transfer case.
If you're going to convert to a different t-case with a different low range, you're better off using a transmission adapter that puts the speed sensor in the tail shaft of the transmission. That way low range never factors in to the calculation so the transmission will always shift correctly. You can easily run any other transfer case out there at that point. A Jeep NP242 with part time and full time 4 high is a good one to run instead of the 229. In my CJ, I'm going to run a 4 speed Atlas behind my 5.3/4L60. I have the speed sensor for the transmission and I'll be getting a mechanical speedo gear in the t-case so I can have a functioning speedometer in the cab.
Makes sense. I guess that's the way to go. The NP241C, they look to be pretty inexpensive too.
With regards to the linkage, what's the best route? I believe I read someone made the stock FSJ high low lever on the floor work with it? I've also seen the GM shifter added to the floor board. I'd like to be able to keep it as stock appearing inside as possible, so the stock lever is attractive to me...
I'm going with the NP229 in my LY5 swap, mostly because I like the AWD capability. When I installed the engine/transmission, I basically put the transfer case back in the same place, so my linkage and drive shafts bolted up. This does limit the room in front of the engine, but I was able to solve that issue as well by moving the radiator forward.
No matter how you go, you'll need to modify a bunch of stuff anyway, so think it through and make a plan!
I used the factory low range lever, sort of. I never liked it under the seat, and I wanted to reach it easier than a horizontal position would allow. So I drilled holes in the tunnel to move the whole thing forward a foot or so. Then I took a torch to the lever itself, heated it red, and twisted it so that the lever pointed up when all was said and done. I connected it to the NP241C using the NP241C factory linkage. Made it much easier to get to.
Pete
'55 Willys Wagon, the original FSJ
Sitting on a '77 Cherokee frame, Dodge D60's
Isuzu 6BD1, NV4500, NP241
On slightly related note, my friend has a 4L70 trans that needs a rebuild.. since I was planning on rebuilding anything I got, will it plug into my 03-04 harness?
I would try to stick with the NP241c. It was easy to bolt up, though I did need to move my cross member down because of the way the t-case is clocked in the Chevy setup. You could also get a clocking ring like other members have done to rotate the case up. I believe you're right on the years you are looking for, however, it is possible to purchase a V.S.S. to attach to the mechanical speedo. output. That is what I did, because I couldn't locate a t-case that had the passenger front output AND the V.S.S. Yours should be a piece of cake with the driver's side front output.
Jeff
Beast : 1979 Cherokee Chief
Engine : 2003 GMC 5.3 liter Vortec
Trans. : 2002 4L60e / Transfer Case : 1989 NP241C with Slip-yoke eliminator
Lift : 4" / Tires : 33/12.50./15 BFG KM2's
Dakota Digital dashboard cluster
Was just re-reading back through here.. I had read your thread as my point of reference and I just now realized that I'm driver drop. I've just done ball joints and been crawling around under it and just had ingrained in mind that the diff was on the passenger side.
I concur with Jeff's comments, go with the np241c. Mine matched up nicely with my 4l80e, easy to install, and linkage was a piece of cake!
Captain Dennis Smith, U.S. Navy
*'88 Jeep Grand Wagoneer w/GM LS 6.0 Vortec/4L80e/NP241c
*'89 Jeep Grand Wagoneer stock trail rig
*74 AMC Javelin AMX w/360, 4-speed Hurst, over 450 hp monster!
*83 Jeep CJ7 engine swap (305/TH400,Dana300/Dana44s)
Found one from a 88 chevy for a good price, will just need to add a VSS through the cable. I really want to do that dakota dash, but not sure if I want to be another $600 deep into this swap.
Although I should note most people that do this swap also swap in a GM fuel tank that goes in the spare tire area. That way you can use the GM pump/pickup.