The PIG Smith wrote:...
tgreese wrote:The only difference between Motorcraft and HEI is packaging.
OH MY! I do recall all the heated posts on this topic from JYG
Well, it's true. Whether you prefer the packaging of the HEI or the TFI'd Motorcraft, the parts used and the circuitry and principle of operation of the two systems is the same. You can pick nits about minor differences, but are essentially the same ignition system, implemented by different companies.
The PIG Smith wrote:
tgreese wrote:Instead, I would replace the Motorcraft module with a MSD and at least get an improved spark for the money spent.
MSD makes plug-and-play harnesses to go with your Motorcraft distributor.
If you hate the appearance and mounting of the TFI coil, you can use the factory coil with the MSD module or buy a hot cylindrical coil to use with the MSD, like one of these
http://www.summitracing.com/search/part ... 4294943647. You are not required to use the TFI coil.
WOW! I did not know this! This is awesome news! (more like a wakeup call)
This now a no-brainer to keep the TFI and stock style harness (should I replace it)
There are a lot of coils listed on the link you provided.
Which Blaster do you recommend?
Also, I read posts from a few disgruntled MSD 6a owners...so I need to figure out what they did wrong as not to fall in that same pit of woe.
I know the MSD 6a has to be better than the goo-on-fender Motorcraft ICM.
You can pick any of these coils to go with whichever ECU you choose. I'd choose this one -
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g5217/overview/ I'm running a cylindrical Pertronix coil in my CJ-6, with a HEI module on the fender and a TFI'd Motorcraft distributor. Really, with the MSD ECU, the spark is so strong that you don't need a hot coil unless you plan to turn 6000 RPM regularly, IMO. The factory coil is fine.
BTW every Jeeper should carry a spare ignition coil. They fail in the most inconvenient places - BTDT.
The PIG Smith wrote:
tgreese wrote:Also, I think you are dreaming that replacing the under-hood harness is going to be simple, compared to understanding your existing ignition.
If it were mine, I would fix what I've got. Go one circuit at a time, and verify every connection. Just refuse to be overwhelmed - spend as much time as you need to get each wire right.
I have gone down this path a ways...fixing the under hood engine harness one section at a time.
My frustration is once I complete one repair, the brittle, broken, cracked insulation falls of just above the section that I repaired.
I suppose I can keep on, repairing on section at a time.
The super scary part is the under dash cab harness.
It's been hacked on, spliced, bare wires hanging and dangling...a real rats nest.
I could remove the instrument panel to get a better access to the dash....but it is very overwhelming.
You can take some consolation that the under-dash harness should be much less weathered than the under-hood harness.
Hard to give you any better advice than be careful and systematic, refer to the factory wiring diagram, and persevere.
Installing a new hot rod harness is probably more work than you imagine. It's a complete rewire, and you only reuse the terminations. They supply you with a new wiring diagram that goes with their harness.
You mention JYG, aka JeepHammer... he has a very nice post (yes, hard to believe) at JeepForum about repairing wiring:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/basic ... d-1340134/ Read through and maybe it will inspire you. In the past, I have removed connectors from the plastic shell and ends of wires, pried their little prongs open, and reused them with new wire (too much work if you are doing more than one or two - buy new connectors if you plan to do a bunch of these). If you can snip the wire up by the shell, I'd suggest an uninsulated butt connector, crimp and solder, and adhesive heat shrink over the joint.
I have also clipped out damamged connectors and replaced them with weatherpacs, drilled through connectors and replace the connector part with a straight through wire, and removed inline connectors altogether. The connectors in cars are there to make assembly at the factory faster, not because of some universal modularity concept. Mechanical connectors are a terrible liability and electrically very unreliable (relatively speaking). So don't be precious about preserving any trashed wiring or connectors - cut them out, crimp, solder and adhesive heat shrink. Done and waterproof. Bare butt connectors
http://www.delcity.net/store/Non!insula ... s/p_801870
It may also help you to get a bunch of random wire at the local pick-a-part, so you'll have lots of colors. Ask first - tell them you want to get a bunch of random lengths from damaged harnesses, and secure a price. Don't spend time to strip a bunch of wire only to get some outrageous price when you get to the desk - BTDT.