Curving a HEI Distributor

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The PIG Smith
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Curving a HEI Distributor

Post by The PIG Smith »

MillerLuck (Larry Miller) modified my Motorcraft TFI distributor in my J10 project with a spring kit and then using a vacuum pump and long hex key, adjusted the advance.

While there is nothing wrong with this setup, what is wrong is all the wiring in under the hood is scary!
After my futile attempt to repair it, I decided to purchase a new wiring harness.

What I am struggling with is should I get a wiring harness for a stock application and then modify for the TFI coil?
..OR..purchase a wiring harness that is already setup for an HEI Distributor?

IF I go with the HEI style harness, then I will need to switch to a Mallory (or some other non Chinese brand) HEI Distributor.
I am okay with all of this...

IF I switch distributors, will the vacuum advance need to be recurved to match my engine?
Bryan Smith
Fort Wayne, Indiana
2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
- 75th Anniversary Edition - 1941 Trim Package - Recon Green --Daily Driver
1986 Jeep J20
- Super clean rig from the AZ/CA state line -- Current Project
1982 Jeep J10
- Has become a Long Term Project.
1981 Jeep J20
- Commercial flat bed - Lost in a Divorce --gone
1987 Jeep J20 Pioneer
- Former Rick Bielec aka Ricbee plow rig. Major rust!! --gone

IFSJA Member #1933 Joined November 30, 2001
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Stuka
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Re: Curving a HEI Distributor

Post by Stuka »

Maybe. Depends where the HEI came from. There are some that are pre-set for an AMC 360. Although fine tuning it would still be required. When I put mine in I got it from Z&M and to my knowledge, he has them already curved. CRT Performance also has their HEI's setup for what should work, but fine tuning may also be required. ( http://www.crtperformance.com/crt/distr ... etail.html )

CRT's are priced pretty well too. I have installed a few of them, and have always worked well.
2017 JKU Rubicon
Pevious Jeeps: 1981 J10, 1975 Cherokee, 2008 JK, 2005 KJ, 1989 XJ
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tgreese
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Re: Curving a HEI Distributor

Post by tgreese »

The PIG Smith wrote:MillerLuck (Larry Miller) modified my Motorcraft TFI distributor in my J10 project with a spring kit and then using a vacuum pump and long hex key, adjusted the advance.

While there is nothing wrong with this setup, what is wrong is all the wiring in under the hood is scary!
After my futile attempt to repair it, I decided to purchase a new wiring harness.

What I am struggling with is should I get a wiring harness for a stock application and then modify for the TFI coil?
..OR..purchase a wiring harness that is already setup for an HEI Distributor?

IF I go with the HEI style harness, then I will need to switch to a Mallory (or some other non Chinese brand) HEI Distributor.
I am okay with all of this...

IF I switch distributors, will the vacuum advance need to be recurved to match my engine?
Gosh, if you have an ignition system that works and is curved to your engine, it seems foolish to discard it for the HEI. The only difference between Motorcraft and HEI is packaging. Instead, I would replace the Motorcraft module with a MSD and at least get an improved spark for the money spent. MSD makes plug-and-play harnesses to go with your Motorcraft distributor. If you hate the appearance and mounting of the TFI coil, you can use the factory coil with the MSD module or buy a hot cylindrical coil to use with the MSD, like one of these http://www.summitracing.com/search/part ... 4294943647. You are not required to use the TFI coil.

Also, I think you are dreaming that replacing the under-hood harness is going to be simple, compared to understanding your existing ignition.

If it were mine, I would fix what I've got. Go one circuit at a time, and verify every connection. Just refuse to be overwhelmed - spend as much time as you need to get each wire right.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
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The PIG Smith
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Re: Curving a HEI Distributor

Post by The PIG Smith »

tgreese wrote:Gosh, if you have an ignition system that works and is curved to your engine, it seems foolish to discard it for the HEI.
That's kinda what I thought, but the OCD in me dislikes modifying a brand new wiring harness and messing it up...but I've been know to do foolish things, repeatedly.
tgreese wrote:The only difference between Motorcraft and HEI is packaging.
OH MY! I do recall all the heated posts on this topic from JYG :roll:
tgreese wrote:Instead, I would replace the Motorcraft module with a MSD and at least get an improved spark for the money spent.
MSD makes plug-and-play harnesses to go with your Motorcraft distributor.
If you hate the appearance and mounting of the TFI coil, you can use the factory coil with the MSD module or buy a hot cylindrical coil to use with the MSD, like one of these http://www.summitracing.com/search/part ... 4294943647. You are not required to use the TFI coil.
WOW! I did not know this! This is awesome news! (more like a wakeup call)
This now a no-brainer to keep the TFI and stock style harness (should I replace it)
There are a lot of coils listed on the link you provided.
Which Blaster do you recommend?
Also, I read posts from a few disgruntled MSD 6a owners...so I need to figure out what they did wrong as not to fall in that same pit of woe.
I know the MSD 6a has to be better than the goo-on-fender Motorcraft ICM.
tgreese wrote:Also, I think you are dreaming that replacing the under-hood harness is going to be simple, compared to understanding your existing ignition.
If it were mine, I would fix what I've got. Go one circuit at a time, and verify every connection. Just refuse to be overwhelmed - spend as much time as you need to get each wire right.
I have gone down this path a ways...fixing the under hood engine harness one section at a time.
My frustration is once I complete one repair, the brittle, broken, cracked insulation falls of just above the section that I repaired. :-(
I suppose I can keep on, repairing on section at a time.

The super scary part is the under dash cab harness.
It's been hacked on, spliced, bare wires hanging and dangling...a real rats nest.
I could remove the instrument panel to get a better access to the dash....but it is very overwhelming.
Bryan Smith
Fort Wayne, Indiana
2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
- 75th Anniversary Edition - 1941 Trim Package - Recon Green --Daily Driver
1986 Jeep J20
- Super clean rig from the AZ/CA state line -- Current Project
1982 Jeep J10
- Has become a Long Term Project.
1981 Jeep J20
- Commercial flat bed - Lost in a Divorce --gone
1987 Jeep J20 Pioneer
- Former Rick Bielec aka Ricbee plow rig. Major rust!! --gone

IFSJA Member #1933 Joined November 30, 2001
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fulsizjeep
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Re: Curving a HEI Distributor

Post by fulsizjeep »

I would keep it simple to get the J10 going. You can always go to HEI later if you like. It just needs one 'key on' 12V hot wire. You can get this from the hot wire to the Duraspark Ign Module. :-bd
Flint Boardman
88 GW, 401/727/208, 5" lift, D44s/4.10s/locked up, 35s
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jaber
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Re: Curving a HEI Distributor

Post by jaber »

I have installed a few Painless harnesses over the years and they make it easy. If I could afford it, everything I own would have one. Theres great piece of mind knowing its not going to burn down the next bump you hit. The instructions and support are there if you need it, but I found most of my answers online with a quick search.

As for "hacking" the new harness, if you talk with them when ordering, they will supply the correct ends for your app. You might have to change them on the end of the wires, but the ends will be there that clip into the ford connector.
Jeff

'46 cj3a
'51 Willys p/u
'51 Willys Parkway Conversion
'74 CJ5
'75 J-20 Wrecker
'75 J-20 Cummins service truck
'77 J-10 p/u
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tgreese
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Re: Curving a HEI Distributor

Post by tgreese »

The PIG Smith wrote:...
tgreese wrote:The only difference between Motorcraft and HEI is packaging.
OH MY! I do recall all the heated posts on this topic from JYG :roll:
Well, it's true. Whether you prefer the packaging of the HEI or the TFI'd Motorcraft, the parts used and the circuitry and principle of operation of the two systems is the same. You can pick nits about minor differences, but are essentially the same ignition system, implemented by different companies.
The PIG Smith wrote:
tgreese wrote:Instead, I would replace the Motorcraft module with a MSD and at least get an improved spark for the money spent.
MSD makes plug-and-play harnesses to go with your Motorcraft distributor.
If you hate the appearance and mounting of the TFI coil, you can use the factory coil with the MSD module or buy a hot cylindrical coil to use with the MSD, like one of these http://www.summitracing.com/search/part ... 4294943647. You are not required to use the TFI coil.
WOW! I did not know this! This is awesome news! (more like a wakeup call)
This now a no-brainer to keep the TFI and stock style harness (should I replace it)
There are a lot of coils listed on the link you provided.
Which Blaster do you recommend?
Also, I read posts from a few disgruntled MSD 6a owners...so I need to figure out what they did wrong as not to fall in that same pit of woe.
I know the MSD 6a has to be better than the goo-on-fender Motorcraft ICM.
You can pick any of these coils to go with whichever ECU you choose. I'd choose this one - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g5217/overview/ I'm running a cylindrical Pertronix coil in my CJ-6, with a HEI module on the fender and a TFI'd Motorcraft distributor. Really, with the MSD ECU, the spark is so strong that you don't need a hot coil unless you plan to turn 6000 RPM regularly, IMO. The factory coil is fine.

BTW every Jeeper should carry a spare ignition coil. They fail in the most inconvenient places - BTDT.
The PIG Smith wrote:
tgreese wrote:Also, I think you are dreaming that replacing the under-hood harness is going to be simple, compared to understanding your existing ignition.
If it were mine, I would fix what I've got. Go one circuit at a time, and verify every connection. Just refuse to be overwhelmed - spend as much time as you need to get each wire right.
I have gone down this path a ways...fixing the under hood engine harness one section at a time.
My frustration is once I complete one repair, the brittle, broken, cracked insulation falls of just above the section that I repaired. :-(
I suppose I can keep on, repairing on section at a time.

The super scary part is the under dash cab harness.
It's been hacked on, spliced, bare wires hanging and dangling...a real rats nest.
I could remove the instrument panel to get a better access to the dash....but it is very overwhelming.
You can take some consolation that the under-dash harness should be much less weathered than the under-hood harness.

Hard to give you any better advice than be careful and systematic, refer to the factory wiring diagram, and persevere.

Installing a new hot rod harness is probably more work than you imagine. It's a complete rewire, and you only reuse the terminations. They supply you with a new wiring diagram that goes with their harness.

You mention JYG, aka JeepHammer... he has a very nice post (yes, hard to believe) at JeepForum about repairing wiring: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/basic ... d-1340134/ Read through and maybe it will inspire you. In the past, I have removed connectors from the plastic shell and ends of wires, pried their little prongs open, and reused them with new wire (too much work if you are doing more than one or two - buy new connectors if you plan to do a bunch of these). If you can snip the wire up by the shell, I'd suggest an uninsulated butt connector, crimp and solder, and adhesive heat shrink over the joint.

I have also clipped out damamged connectors and replaced them with weatherpacs, drilled through connectors and replace the connector part with a straight through wire, and removed inline connectors altogether. The connectors in cars are there to make assembly at the factory faster, not because of some universal modularity concept. Mechanical connectors are a terrible liability and electrically very unreliable (relatively speaking). So don't be precious about preserving any trashed wiring or connectors - cut them out, crimp, solder and adhesive heat shrink. Done and waterproof. Bare butt connectors http://www.delcity.net/store/Non!insula ... s/p_801870

It may also help you to get a bunch of random wire at the local pick-a-part, so you'll have lots of colors. Ask first - tell them you want to get a bunch of random lengths from damaged harnesses, and secure a price. Don't spend time to strip a bunch of wire only to get some outrageous price when you get to the desk - BTDT.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
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The PIG Smith
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Re: Curving a HEI Distributor

Post by The PIG Smith »

I am good friends with Zack Heisey from Z&M Jeeps.
He sells a turnkey, plug and plug FSJ Wiring Harness that is more artwork than an automotive part.
I've seen them in the box and I've seen them installed.
He can customize it to a limited degree, like if you have a stock or HEI ignition, if you have a stock or CS144 alternator and maybe a few other items that I do not recall.
Zack's shop is just up the road from me, shipping is not an issue for me.
If I went with a new Wiring Harness...Zack is where I will go.

But like Flint and Zack and most others have told me, repeatedly, don't sweat this small stuff...just get it running and then go from there with making corrections/repairs/customizations and updates.
The immediate goal in the journey of getting this rig running and possibly roadworthy is to correct the wiring.
Bryan Smith
Fort Wayne, Indiana
2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
- 75th Anniversary Edition - 1941 Trim Package - Recon Green --Daily Driver
1986 Jeep J20
- Super clean rig from the AZ/CA state line -- Current Project
1982 Jeep J10
- Has become a Long Term Project.
1981 Jeep J20
- Commercial flat bed - Lost in a Divorce --gone
1987 Jeep J20 Pioneer
- Former Rick Bielec aka Ricbee plow rig. Major rust!! --gone

IFSJA Member #1933 Joined November 30, 2001
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The PIG Smith
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Re: Curving a HEI Distributor

Post by The PIG Smith »

tgreese wrote:You mention JYG, aka JeepHammer... he has a very nice post (yes, hard to believe) at JeepForum about repairing wiring: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/basic ... d-1340134/
Read through and maybe it will inspire you.
Really? Nice as in nice? :-) I did not feel the ground shake or lightning strike and there are no zombies at the door wanting to eat my brain....so I am really scared now.

I feel compelled, no I am on a geast to read these words of wisdom.
Bryan Smith
Fort Wayne, Indiana
2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
- 75th Anniversary Edition - 1941 Trim Package - Recon Green --Daily Driver
1986 Jeep J20
- Super clean rig from the AZ/CA state line -- Current Project
1982 Jeep J10
- Has become a Long Term Project.
1981 Jeep J20
- Commercial flat bed - Lost in a Divorce --gone
1987 Jeep J20 Pioneer
- Former Rick Bielec aka Ricbee plow rig. Major rust!! --gone

IFSJA Member #1933 Joined November 30, 2001
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tgreese
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Re: Curving a HEI Distributor

Post by tgreese »

The PIG Smith wrote:
tgreese wrote:You mention JYG, aka JeepHammer... he has a very nice post (yes, hard to believe) at JeepForum about repairing wiring: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/basic ... d-1340134/
Read through and maybe it will inspire you.
Really? Nice as in nice? :-) I did not feel the ground shake or lightning strike and there are no zombies at the door wanting to eat my brain....so I am really scared now.

I feel compelled, no I am on a geast to read these words of wisdom.
geast? quest?

Well, I think it's nice in that it's material that can be very helpful and I haven't seen anyone else cover these topics in a thorough way anywhere else. Much of it seems pretty obvious to an old hand, but not everyone is an old hand. And the typical bellicose attitude seems absent... so yeah, nice. Congrats JeepHammer.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
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