Ad blocker detected: Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors. Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker on our website.
Before I embarked on my Jeep journey I figured I would need a sander to remove the existing camo paint.
I didn't want to spend a ton of money, but there is an awful lot of body on a FSJ and I didn't want to end up having to buy two or three of them before the project was done.
I fretted about it for awhile before deciding on a Porter Cable 382-5" random orbit for $50 from Amazon, and I've been quite pleased with it.
I haven't attached the dust collector to it, so I don't know how well that works, but it doesn't look promising.
Adhesive backed paper is available to me (from work) and this sander has a hook and loop pad, I simply put a sheet of 1500 grit hook and loop on the pad and stick whichever grit of the adhesive backed stuff to that (mostly 80-200 grit). I've changed sandpaper 20 times or so while still using that same sheet of 1500 to stick to.
I'm 90% done sanding off all the old paint on the body and this Porter Cable 382 is still performing very nicely. I've never spent much time using sanders, so I'm sure my opinion isn't worth much, and I'm sure there are better units to be had, but I am extremely pleased with this one and have zero regrets on spending $50 for it.
Thanks for that info. I was talked into a random orbiter by the guy at home depot for a big cabinet project I was working on. It has been the best sander I've ever used. It removes more material faster and gives a great surface with less paper use.
jongreve wrote:Adhesive backed paper is available to me (from work) and this sander has a hook and loop pad, I simply put a sheet of 1500 grit hook and loop on the pad and stick whichever grit of the adhesive backed stuff to that (mostly 80-200 grit). I've changed sandpaper 20 times or so while still using that same sheet of 1500 to stick to.
This right here was worth the read. That's a great idea!
1990 GW "saved by Jerry" edition
will e wrote:I guess life is better if you are not moving too fast.
Mdcptman wrote:I've never used a DA sander, how does it compare to Random orbital?
They are for all practical purposes identical. I was going to say that I think my pneumatics say "RO" and my electrics say "DA", but I've got that backwards. My skil is RO and my Astro is DA. I pick them up and spin the head and they both spin and orbit the same. My guess is it's two words for the same thing, just like pipe wrench vs. Monkey wrench, or "E-Z Out" vs. "G*$$#%% M*+#$&^@<>$*".
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.
1980 Cherokee wrangled & mangled
MSD complete system
Eddy intake
Holley 650
Comp cam 270H
4" Rusty's
Ramsey 12K winch
208
Built to drive not sit in the garage.
No longer strangled. I didn't build it for anyone else.
If you can't improve it why waste your time?
jongreve wrote:Adhesive backed paper is available to me (from work) and this sander has a hook and loop pad, I simply put a sheet of 1500 grit hook and loop on the pad and stick whichever grit of the adhesive backed stuff to that (mostly 80-200 grit). I've changed sandpaper 20 times or so while still using that same sheet of 1500 to stick to.
This right here was worth the read. That's a great idea!
I've taken an awful lot from this board, though my skills and experience are limited, it pleases me that I have at least given back a little.
I did try several, more involved, ideas on getting the adhesive backed stuff to work on the equipment that I purchased, mostly failures (I work in an engineering department, and we all know engineers, stereotypically, are good at finding hard ways to accomplish easy tasks), in the end I just told myself "F- it, let's see what happens with this", it ended up working out, and part of my motive for the post was to share that.
jongreve wrote:
I'm 90% done sanding off all the old paint on the body and this Porter Cable 382 is still performing very nicely. I've never spent much time using sanders, so I'm sure my opinion isn't worth much, and I'm sure there are better units to be had, but I am extremely pleased with this one and have zero regrets on spending $50 for it.
How deep did you go, to metal or just down to the primer? How much time you have in it?
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
Mdcptman wrote:I've never used a DA sander, how does it compare to Random orbital?
DA sanders have a lock that prevents the orbiting, changing it to a normal disc sander hence the dual action: random orbital or spinning.
On the other hand I've read that the dual action refers to the combined spinning and orbiting but that's what a RO does so why a different name?
I therefore buy the first description.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
Mdcptman wrote:I've never used a DA sander, how does it compare to Random orbital?
DA sanders have a lock that prevents the orbiting, changing it to a normal disc sander hence the dual action: random orbital or spinning.
On the other hand I've read that the dual action refers to the combined spinning and orbiting but that's what a RO does so why a different name?
I therefore buy the first description.
I guess it does depend on what you buy because it was a different name given by manufacturers that can cause this type of confusion.
Interesting. I've used a ton of DA sanders & never seen this lock out feature. Random orbital & Dual Action mean the same thing.
It does not mean they don't exist but I've just never seen one. There's lot's of things I haven't seen.
I have a drill that works as a regular drill & a hammer drill but it is not called a dual action drill.
1980 Cherokee wrangled & mangled
MSD complete system
Eddy intake
Holley 650
Comp cam 270H
4" Rusty's
Ramsey 12K winch
208
Built to drive not sit in the garage.
No longer strangled. I didn't build it for anyone else.
If you can't improve it why waste your time?
A monkey wrench is the same frame with smooth straight jaws.
Sorry, I just had to...
LMAO, so that means the pipe wrenches I got from Harbor Freight with the straight and cheap, strip the teeth off on first use, jaws are actually Monkey wrenches. Now thats fitting...
You know I agree but in the convoluted scheme of things they are generally called Monkey But I stand corrected the monkey was a very crappy adjustable wrench but not a crescent wrench. The geography also has a lot to do with what tools are called. The south is much more laxed.
We all know monkey wrenches are the precursor to the Pipe wrench. You use it to round off the corners so you can use the pipe wrench to finish the job. Then you can get a saw & cut it off.
For that would you use a Jig saw , a scroll saw, a reciprocating saw or a Sawzall ?
1980 Cherokee wrangled & mangled
MSD complete system
Eddy intake
Holley 650
Comp cam 270H
4" Rusty's
Ramsey 12K winch
208
Built to drive not sit in the garage.
No longer strangled. I didn't build it for anyone else.
If you can't improve it why waste your time?
jongreve wrote:
I'm 90% done sanding off all the old paint on the body and this Porter Cable 382 is still performing very nicely. I've never spent much time using sanders, so I'm sure my opinion isn't worth much, and I'm sure there are better units to be had, but I am extremely pleased with this one and have zero regrets on spending $50 for it.
How deep did you go, to metal or just down to the primer? How much time you have in it?
My first foray was on the roof and at the time I thought it best to take everything down to bare metal. I later regretted this notion (though it probably is the best), because I was causing gouging (most likely due to improper technique and enthusiasm?). Now I just kinda go by feel, if the material doesn't want to be sanded out completely, then I allow it to reside simply for the fact that it is that much less body work that I have to do. If the existing material it easy to remove and/or is pitted with what appears to be air bubbles, then it has to go.
I have zero experience with what I am currently trying to accomplish, this is my answer to a question, and it could very possibly be the wrong way to go about it, but for the moment it is producing satisfactory (to me) results