Dana 44 pop noise

[Horsman]

Probably going to replace the carrier assembly, all bearings, possibly the ring and pinion. Any opinions on replacing with the stock carrier or up-grading to the Detroit True Track unit?

[Stuka]

No reason to replace the R&P unless its really showing some wear, or if you are going to different gears.

Setting up a R&P without some specialized tools is doable, but can be tedious.

A tru-trac is a great limited slip. Very durable and predictable. If you are ok with the price, and comfortable with setting up the gears, go for it. You could also have a shop do the R&P.

[tgreese]

Note that the Quadratrac was only offered with open differentials F/R, never any limited slip or lockers. Rear-axle posi was one of the most popular options from Jeep otherwise, but not available with Quadratrac. Likely Jeep wanted to preserve the impressive foul-weather capability (ie snow and ice) that was one of the main selling points of these cars. Any posi unit will change how the car handles in such conditions.

JMO - if I were going to spend a bunch of money on a traction device for such a vehicle, I'd go selectable if I could afford it (ie air locker, electric locker, etc.) I'd keep the benign foul-weather handling and could lock in if I needed extra traction on the trail.

[OldFarmTruck22]

I have a Tru-Trac in my 78 with Quadratrac. Works excellent and does make a clicking sound when turning. That is normal for how they work. Sounds like you may already have one in there.

[Stuka]

Tru-Tracs do not click. There is nothing that ratchets in them. They use worm gears to put pressure on the side gears as one tires spins faster than the other.

[Horsman]

UPDATE: finally was able to get the rear differential pulled and sent out for inspection. Got a call from the rebuilder, he sees nothing wrong. Went ahead and had the carrier assembly replaced, replaced all bearings and seals since it was apart. Reinstalled the rear diff today and took it for a spin. Still getting a pop/binding sensation when turning sharp in either direction going forward and backwards. Sounds like coming from the rear diff but maybe it’s in the transfer case. This reminds me of when you have a four wheel drive vehicle with the center diff locked on dry pavement.

Any ideas?
Q/trac unit was rebuilt by BJ’s rebuilder.
If I have the vacuum line orientation wrong for the Q/trac switch located in the dash, would that cause this?

Thanks for all the help and ideas.

[seventynine]

I had similar symptoms on my ‘79 J-10. It wasn’t quadratrack but the spider gears started to come apart. I thought it was a wheel bearing. As Tim said…axle wheel bearings can cause this symptom. Jack it up and see if you have any in and out play on the wheels in the rear.

[seventynine]

If you have the vacuum lines reversed and it was in “emergency mode” when you think it isn’t….it would bind in tight turns etc. not necessarily pop though.

Try locking into emergency drive and see if it goes away?

I’ve had bad shackle bushings pop in tight turns. It was the front though.

[seventynine]

I’m assuming you didn’t replace the actual carrier right? Not sure why you would do that. That would require you to reset up the ring and pinion….backlash anyway.

[Horsman]

If you have the vacuum lines reversed and it was in “emergency mode” when you think it isn’t….it would bind in tight turns etc. not necessarily pop though.

Try locking into emergency drive and see if it goes away?

I’ve had bad shackle bushings pop in tight turns. It was the front though.

If the vacuum lines are not in the correct location, you recommend flipping the vacuum switch to emergency drive? If condition goes away, that would mean the vacuum lines are not in the correct position?

[Horsman]

I’m assuming you didn’t replace the actual carrier right? Not sure why you would do that. That would require you to reset up the ring and pinion….backlash anyway.

Yes, I thought the noise was coming from the rear diff. I replaced everything with no change to the condition.

[Srdayflyer]

true track
i had that unit installed in Big Minion (83 chero) and LIL minion (cj5) i am quite pleased with the units for what i do off road prefer the function verses locker, and if Sam Hill In Texas gets bad both rigs have 12k winches to gett'r done thats my say for today

[seventynine]

If the vacuum lines are not in the correct location, you recommend flipping the vacuum switch to emergency drive? If condition goes away, that would mean the vacuum lines are not in the correct position?

Yes. I had a TH-400 rebuilt once and they reversed the lines. This is how I confirmed it. If it is the case…you can just reverse them in the engine compartment near center at the top at the firewall. They go from metal lines to rubber lines there. You may also have to put the Jeep in reverse and back up a 20 feet or more to get it out of emergency drive if it is locked in.

If it’s not that I’d say it would have to be an axle wheel bearing or a pinion bearing. You said you already replaced the u-joint. The Double-Cardan joint up by the transfer case on the drive shaft can wear out too…BTDT. I’m with Tgreese on not tampering with the Quadratrack system with a locker that is not selectable. I know others have done it without issues. I guess it just depends on how you are planning to use the truck. If you are mostly roading it or trying to get more off road capability beyond the limits of the full time system.

[Horsman]

Was thinking my Qtrac was in emergency drive with no light illumination on the dash, thus causing my noises while turning slowly. Ryan at BJ’s recommend this test below.

Used by Mityvac vacuum pump and applied vacuum to the apply side of the emergency drive control diagram, heard a single click noise, gauge still holding vacuum. Got in the truck, turned the ignition key on, noticed the emergency drive light on the gauges is illuminated. Turned key off. Got back under the truck and applied vacuum to the release side, heard faint single click, still holding vacuum. Turned ignition key on again, light on dash was off.

With this test above, am I correct in thinking that my emergency drive control diagram is working as designed and I have had my vacuum line orientation correct? Switch has been in off position and I have never seen the dash light illuminated while driving.

As soon as the weather is dry, going to take the truck to a field around the corner, do some figure eights in reverse and see if maybe my issue resolves. Maybe it is the “slip-stick”condition I have read about that is common for these. Fingers crossed.