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I'm putting a Street Demon carb on my '81' 360 J10. The carb has about 1 1/4" travel on the throttle linkage and the pedal has about 2 1/4" full travel.
My question - Which is best? I've never modified pedal travel before. Should I put a mechanical stop on the back of the pedal so it starts where it normally would and has short travel, or should I bend the accelerator pedal mounting rod (what's that called anyway?) so the pedal starts closer to the floor but flooring the pedal still "floors the pedal"? Is either of these options better or worse than the other? Is there another option that I'm missing?
Shortening the the cable to lower the pedals static position is one option. Then "floored" is still all the way down on the floor, and you don't have to worry about breaking the cable.
Another option is to lengthen the arm on the carb where the cable connects. Making this arm longer, translates to more pedal movement. This also allows for finer, more progressive throttle control.
A search online shows lots of people have various linkage issues with those carbs. There are a handful of brackets available for them. But they certainly are not supported as well as Edelbrock for mainline Holley carbs. Kind of surprised Holley even makes the demons anymore, since it kind of seemed like they bought out demon just for some of the IP after the whole Berry Grant bankruptcy thing.
Thanks Stuka, Funny I live in the Carolinas/GA area and was not up on the BG issues, The decision for the Demon had several factors, one of them being laziness but that's another story.
If it turns out not to be so great that may be the excuse to go with FI which would be my preference anyway. This project has been in the works long enough that the money tree I planted in the yard is growing. I expect it to produce green fruit dollars any day which will get rid of any financial concerns HA!
Ive been running a Street Demon on my J10 for about 5 years now. I did extend the linkage on the carb to match the peddle-just like Stuka said. However, I had a bad dead spot on WOT and had to experiment with the Power needles. I never was able to completely resolve the issue [it'll still caugh some times on a dead stop to WOT] but its been reliable.
I've heard great things about the Truck Avenger but this carb was in the right place at the right time so it's what I've got for now. I may do a some off roading but that won't be the primary use. Good to know about the WOT challenge, thank you.
I really just want the truck for some semi heavy duty truck stuff when I need it. It's got J20 running gear in it now. I figure it'll pull anything I need to pull, anywhere it needs to be pulled. When I was younger a knew a guy in VA with a J20 that pulled a single wide mobile home with it once. Haha that sold me on their abilities. All that said, I did lift it 4" sooo mayyyybe I'll probably, definitely head into the woods at the Uwharrie National Forest.
I bought a custom cable kit. Will give that a try.
Oh, went to bolt up the headers today and found out the machine shop missed TWO stripped exhaust bolt holes. GRRRRRR! What's your preferred method of thread repair for this situation? Heli-coil or time sert?
Your best bet will be to start a new thread with the exhaust bolt hole question. I assume the engine is in the truck? Repairing in the truck is going to be tight.