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Hello from France,my name is nicolas,i have a 1982 J10 360 T177,and i have a clutch linkage problem,the previous owner had cut the pedal to bellcrank rod with no adjuster Under the dash,and i need to know the stock lenght of this rod,i think is to short because i can’t disengaged the clutch enough for to shift(hard to shift when engine runs)the slip point is closer to the floor and this part is discontinued,Please tell me the lenght for i can make a longer one with the good lenght,thank you
The rod between the pedal includes two each of parts 6, 7, 8 and parts 13, 14, 15, 16 and 19. You see that the rod is adjustable and does not have a fixed length.
I suggest you set the pushrod 33, 34, 35 to minimum length with the pedal up and the clutch released, and measure the length from the bellcrank to the pedal. Then build your replacement rod. Instead of trying to duplicate the original rod exactly, I suggest you design a replacement using standard power transmission parts. In the USA McMaster-Carr is likely the best source for these parts - https://www.mcmaster.com/products/rod-ends/ In France, you likely have similar parts distributors that can supply the parts you need.
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
hello and thank you,ok but how many inches for a new rod?I understand that you said but the rod i have has been cuted and welded by previous owner at a size i don't know if it's ok like stock one if it was a fixed lenght!
There was a few lengths used for the clutch rod depending on the engine and transmission (as the bell crank also changed).
The wire technique can work. You will need to have something hold the clutch pedal up. And then feed the wire through the firewall so that it lines up with each bolt hole. That gives you a good starting point.
When I recreated mine (though I had the old one to go off) I used all-thread with teflon lined heim joints on each side. This way I could adjust the rod to fine tune its length.
thank you all,but why on a J10 there is two place for adjusting,on other model like cj there is just one on bellhousing side,i made the wire technique but i think rod too short because the clutch slip point is near the floor about one inch!
Hmm. I suspect there's no mystery here - if your first rod was too short, you could make another one with more length. Normally you only adjust the nut (item 35) in the above drawing. The long rod on the earlier design (before 1980) also adjusts; it adjusts at the end, not in the middle.
if i make a longer rod the through out bearing will press more the disc springs(not normal?)and if someone on the forum has the same like me(360 and T177)he can tell me his rod lenght
The T177/360 combo is not very common. Most 80+ manuals were behind 258s.
And yes, if the rod is too long, it can cause the release bearing to ride on the clutch, which will wear it out faster.
Here is an image of the rod that I created, which is adjustable for mine. The rod ends could be threaded in and out to fine tune the length. Being able to fine tune it is a requirement to get it to operate correctly.
nico wrote: ↑Mon Nov 27, 2023 10:50 am
what engine and trans you have
This photo is from a 360/T18a. The other is a 258/T176.
So the lengths won't work. But if you measure the basic length needed, and create an adjustable rod like seen above, you will be able to dial it in. It helps if the clutch side is also adjustable.