OEM Brass Radiators Should I Scrap Them?

[threepiece]

These are taking quite a bit of space. I will probably start storing them outside but then the weeds will create an out of sight-out of mind condition.

Are fellows re-coring these regularly? Are they preferred over aftermarket? Give me some direction folks.

[Yeller]

The issue is finding someone to recore them, they are all dieing. I’ve been scrapping them for some time.

[sierrablue]

I'd say scrap them. My family has found that even if they get recored, the recoring is just as low quality (and expensive) as a new radiator--and there's no warranty on them.

Flip side, I know some guys on here an over on IFSJA swear that aluminum radiators and/or plastic tanks are totally junk and wouldn't consider anything else. And some are doing nut and bolt restorations and want a stock radiator.

Maybe list them in the for sale section and maybe on Craig's list for a little bit apiece, and scrap them if they don't get sold after x amount of time?

[tgreese]

No location in your post. We have a place in the greater Boston area that can recore. Last one I did was maybe 20 years ago, but they are still in business. They used a core from this place - https://maineradiator.com/

JMO - the modern plastic and aluminum radiators are fine, and fit and cool well. However, I think they only last between a decade and two. Maybe the modern plastic is improving ... Kinda think the AMC V8 Wagoneer will continue to be supported for the foreseeable future. I recall there was no commodity replacement for my 258 J10 radiator, and that was 20 years ago. If any of the radiators you have are unusual applications - like the early V8s - that's another reason to save them.

[SJTD]

Can't solder aluminum radiators when out in the sticks.

[sierrablue]

Can't solder aluminum radiators when out in the sticks.

This is true. In a pinch I've found that some JB weld works ok, but can't solder it.

[HeavyMetalThunder_81]

Can't solder aluminum radiators when out in the sticks.

Keep a couple of those Muggy Weld aluminum repair rods and a blow torch in your kit. There are cheaper rods but the Muggy Weld ones have great reviews.

To get back on topic. We have a rad shop that still recores radiators in Mt Vernon, WA for about the price of a new one. Not a great deal if there are rads still available, but if it's unobtainable...

[Theodore]

To tgreese's point: We have a place local, Roberts Radiator on Idle Hour Road in Kingsport, TN; took mine to them a few years ago & a couple 1st gen Mustangs a few years before that.

[Scotty54]

For 30 years I utilized a radiator shop in Jacksonville, Florida called Hubbards. Never had an issue after a repair or recore. The shop was loaded with giant commercial radiators - trucks, locomotives, generators. When I picked up mine, they would do a pressure test in front of me. Since moving to TN I had one recored and it didn't last a year. I have to admit the shop did not encourage confidence.

Theodore - now I know about Robert's in Kingsport. I would not hesitate to recore over new, if the shop has a good reputation.

[tgreese]

To tgreese's point: We have a place local, Roberts Radiator on Idle Hour Road in Kingsport, TN; took mine to them a few years ago & a couple 1st gen Mustangs a few years before that.

I did not give a name - J.P. Carrolls in Lexington.

[letank]

Here in SF bay area most of them have closed shop. I have a spare checked when the local guy was retiring.

[threepiece]

Well my heart continues to bleed for these poor Jeeps even after hours of self therapy.

I have strapped nine V8 radiators to a pallet and seven I6 radiators to another. This way I can store them on blocks outside and move them quickly when it comes time to relocate.

I plan to cut the tanks off the eleven remaining radiators to save. This way I have spares in case there is an issue repairing the others.

Have any of you fellows thought about re-coring a radiator yourself? It doesn’t seem like a complicated affair. The brackets on each side seem to act as a jig to align the assembly.

[candymancan]

I scrapped mine on my 90 when it leaked badly.. i tried to soldier it but it kept leaking.. i got like 50$ for it for the copper/brass weight.

The aftermarket autozone radiator. Has been fine for 5 years now.. but it deff DOES not cool as well as the original. My temps went up an average 5-10f. From 200 to 205/210

[ctas]

Here in SF bay area most of them have closed shop. I have a spare checked when the local guy was retiring.

Letank, I have good luck with Howard Radiator in San Carlos, but I haven’t had tried a record with them yet.

[tgreese]

...
Have any of you fellows thought about re-coring a radiator yourself? It doesn’t seem like a complicated affair. The brackets on each side seem to act as a jig to align the assembly.

I watched the guy working at Carrolls when I was there. The new core includes the tubes, fins and top and bottom plates that hold and separate the tubes. It's all copper/brass AFAIK. Looks like the only complicated part is removing and resealing the seam between the tanks and the plates.

The guy at Carrolls used an air-acetylene setup to solder the core to the tanks and sides. I'm pretty good at soldering both large ans small, but I expect I would not have the skill to do this well without some practice. Remove the sides, remove the tanks, solder the tanks to the new core, solder the sides to the tanks.

Plumbers use the air-acetylene torches for large jobs. I would worry about melting the brass if I used an oxy-acetylene setup. I read that the air-powered flame is about 700C cooler than the oxy flame (2400C vs 3100C). Maybe oxygen would be ok if you were careful.

They also had a large dip tank for pressure testing. Some sort of counterweighted boom to lower the radiator into the tank - maybe a homebrew thing.

[letank]

Letank, I have good luck with Howard Radiator in San Carlos, but I haven’t had tried a record with them yet.

thank you