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My front sprung under lift for my j10 doesnt flex and i wheelstand frequently. I want to do a spring over front axle for better clearance and flex and smoother ride. bjsoffroad sells a crossover steering kit but its $550. my knuckles (off a 74 j20) are flattop but there are now bolts. so my questions is- do i need a new setup or can i get these???: http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/de ... .php?id=67
78J10 AMC 401 .30 over. 9.5-1. HOWELL EFI. Th400. leaky Dana 20. Dana 44HD EZ locker. Dana 60 welded disc brakes. Cooper Discoverer STT 315-75-16
You will need to find someone who can machine the flat top knuckles to accept a high steer arm.
Once you have that done, then yes, those arms will work.
Then you will need to purchase new TRE's, part number ES2010L and ES 2010R to go on the high steer arm and then weld some bungs to accept 7/8th fine thread on some 1.5" OD 1" ID DOM.
where is your drag link? i dont see it. i can get them welded up. how do i know the length? i could just buy the kit but wheres the fun in that? if i only machine one knuckle then i could use the old tierod where its at as a cheapo crossover steering right?
78J10 AMC 401 .30 over. 9.5-1. HOWELL EFI. Th400. leaky Dana 20. Dana 44HD EZ locker. Dana 60 welded disc brakes. Cooper Discoverer STT 315-75-16
If you going that far and already have the flat top knuckles do a full highsteer. The arms you linked to are fine. I would look at getting a full "kit" that includes all the hardware as well. That place also advertised that they will machine your knuckles. Since your asking about heavy drag link and tie road I assume you intend to replace them as well. So, the full high steer will only cost you the machining of one additional knuckle and purchase of one steer arm. But yes, you could keep the stock tierod and just move the drag link above the springs.
I used this kit on mine and was very happy with the quality. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/cat ... GMSTE.html
Here it is installed.
87 GW SOA/SF on 33"
87 Diesel Goat- Project Isuzu 4BD1T, 47RH, NP205 Front and Rear D60 5" Lift and 285-75x16 St Maxx
88 GW "Blue"- Next project! 6.2 GM/ 700R4, NP 203, Banks kit
Eric1080 wrote:where is your drag link? i dont see it. i can get them welded up. how do i know the length? i could just buy the kit but wheres the fun in that? if i only machine one knuckle then i could use the old tierod where its at as a cheapo crossover steering right?
You don't see the tie rod because it's FLAT behind the drag link. They are parallel to each other. You want them parallel to each other (or close) to minimize bump steer.
No, you can't use your stock tie rod in a full high steer setup because it's the wrong length and it has the wrong ends on it.
Here's my crossover steering. All the parts can be had from PartsMike.com. There is a guy on eBay that will machine your knuckles for $59 a piece if you want to go full high-steer. I went cheap and only did crossover. I paid 59 for machining, 140 for the draglink and TRE's, and 150 or so for the steering arm, spacer and stud kit. The draglink is threaded so no welding is necessary.
88 Grand Wagoneer - The Money Pit - 360/727/NP208 - SOA/SF - Lots of other stuff SOLD
78 Cherokee Chief - Copper - 360/TH400/Quadratrac - 4 inch BDS lift - 33 inch tires SOLD
Money, most likely, blake. That's why I'm only doing cross over. Later down the road, it is possible to go full high steer. I know on my rig cross over will be plenty. Not all trucks are going to be hard core off roaders like the j10.
Tatsadasayago wrote:And here i thought Capitalism was hitting the Shift Key...