The other thing is cruise control.
Factory CC didn't work and I didn't even want to diagnose it, so I've bought CC unit from Dakota Digital last fall. Kit includes the CC box itself, speed sensor, wiring harness, some sort of bracket and bag of hardware to complete the wiring and attach the cable to throttle arm.
I didn't use the supplied bracket as I'm always to design and print one myself
Here are couple pictures showing my own mount
Upside down
And that's how it will be mounted.
I reused one of the original CC mount holes, drilled 2 more and put M6 rivnuts in them. So CC box is mounted to the bracket by 2 screws (visible in the first pic), and then the bracket is held on the fender by 3 M6 bolts.
Here it is installed
CC throttle cable is going to be replaced by Lokar one later because the supplied one would work with the rest of Lokar cables (I have Lokar throttle and TV cable). I'm waiting for CC cable to arrive (it's on the same slow boat as the bracket
), so throttle part of CC is not connected.
Dakota Digital kit comes with it's own speed sensor that is supposed to mounted on TC output. It looks very similar to the factory inline sensor and it probably is, but I wasn't sure if new cruise would work with old sensor, and DD mentions in their instructions that some sensors output signal is too fast for the unit to handle, so I went with DD sensor included in the kit.
Here is the sensor itself (PVC tubing oon the wires is my addition)
To mount it you first put an adapter on the TC speedometer output
And then center key is inserted and sensor is attached to it with a coupler nut.
I was worried that it will hit the fuel tank plate, but it clears just fine. One very smart thing about the couplers DD used there is one has the left hand threads - so you can start th threads on bot tranny and sensor sides and then tighten the couple without rotating the sensor (which you can't do because fuel tank is in the way).
I also replace the speedometer cable with the single cable, since I don't need the old inline speed sensor anymore. Unfortunately, speedo cables from BJ's do not have the firewall grommet on them, so I had to reuse the old one.
And now the wiring - I like DD products, they are high quality, but wiring is sort of substandard in my opinion (not waterproof connectors, heat shrink that falls off, wrong connector for cruise stalk and so on) and too universal (I'm not using fuse taps for power, or any taps for that matter). So I had to modify the harness
just a bit - chopped off everything 6 inches away from CC unit and made my own, with GT150 and Weatherpack connectors outside and correct connectors for the inside the cab.
Big 8pin GT150 has wires for CC stalk, brake switch signal and dash indicator (basically everything that goes through firewall), smaller 4pin GT150 is for connecting to Bussmann fuse/relay box and has brake signal to/from relay (more on that below) and fused power supply (ACC). Last one is 2 pin Weatherpack for speed sensor.
Here is the in-cab part of the cruise harness
I used connectors for cruise stalk and brake switch from the original one, replaced inline fuse from glass tube to ATM and extended wires to reach CC unit on the fender.
Crimped GT150 terminals on the under-the-hood side of the harness
Then routed through firewall and inserted into the GT150 8pin connector.
DD cruise has an optional "cruise engaged" indication output, that can provide ground to LED. I thought it was nice to have some sort of indication whether cruise is on or not, but I didn't want to add any lights to the dash. And then I remembered that there is one unused light in the instrument cluster, next to 4WD indicator.
Fun fact - there are two version of overlay for that group of lights, I'm not sure what year they changed it.
Earlier has the "4 LOCK" light. I don't know with what TC it was used, AFAIK NP229 doesn't have any electric indication of low range being engaged.
Later years (88+ probably) have "EMISS MAINT" light. I found some info about it in 89 TSM. It was used on series 60/70 (XJ Comanche/Cherokee) and 81 (YJ Wrangler), was connected to emissions maintenance timer and would light up to indicate that it's time to replace O2 sensor or PCV valve. I guess they shared these overlays between SJ and XJ/YJ?
Anyway, both of these are not functional on FSJ, so I decided to use "4 LOCK" as cruise indication. My GW had "EMISS MAINT" light originally, so I swapped the overlay from parts instrument cluster, swapped the pins (notice the order of lights is different) and added the wire to the round connector connector
I was concerned whether DD unit can handle the current need for the bulb (~80 mA), especially since instructions clearly say LED, so I got some yellow LEDs from Amazon. LED used around 20 mA and was too bright, so I replaced 120 Ohm SMD resistor with 240 Ohm - current draw is 10 mA now, and I don't have a blinding yellow light in the cluster.
LED (note that resistor reads 241 instead of 121) and standard bulb
Last part was using relay for brake switch signal - it's not really necessary for incandescent lights (they would ground just fine), but is required if you have LED tail/stop lights. I don't, but to keep my options open and prevent potential cruise disengagement when using turn signals I added the relay to Bussmann box.
Diagram of how you'd wire a relay for brake signal
For tach signal (over-rev safety) you can use either negative coil terminal or tach signal (if you have EFI and it has tach output). I used tach signal from ProFlo ECU because it was easier to wire. And finally here is everything installed
I only did some basic continuity checks because it was getting dark by that time, still need to set all the jumpers correctly and go through self-diagnose procedure to verify that all signals are read correctly by CC unit