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SJTD wrote:. I'm looking forward to getting my system running some day since it will have the glass and I can experiment. My cynical side says it was removed from modern systems to discourage untrained unlicensed guys like me from working on them and to save money.
very good point$... may be I will have running AC too. Got the manifold.... and it is running in the honda, but cycling too often, good points on checking hoses temp
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
I think this is the switch someone mentioned in a previous post. I unplugged it, the connections look clean. I think Ill take my Dremel tool to the fittings and clean them up. If that switch is bad how will that effect the A/C?
HowardT64 wrote:I think this is the switch someone mentioned in a previous post. I unplugged it, the connections look clean. I think Ill take my Dremel tool to the fittings and clean them up. If that switch is bad how will that effect the A/C?
If you have AC running that switch is good, it is the on/off if not enough pressure, the other switches are under the dash, one behind the AC duct next to the hand control (there were some changes with years, so this need to be confirmed) and the other is the expansion valve burried behind the AC evaporator
thank you for the pict, lets have pict of the compressor and the famed leaky fittings?
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
I have a flex fan and an aluminum radiator. No shroud, in fact there was not one when I got the Jeep. I dont get out on the highway much...the AC seems to be working okay for now. Had there been a leak, I think it would not be working at all by now. Ill get some pics later as it is VERY early in the morning
Fix the leak first. If there are bubbles then there is a leak and it HAS to be a contained leak free system no matter what type of refrigerent you are using. When the AC machine is hooked up, after the system is recovered, it needs to have a vacuum put on the system. Not only does the vacuum draw in the oil and refrigerant but it also will boil out moisture. The longer the system gets vacuumed prior to charging, the colder it will blow. Over the counter refrigerent is not the proper way of doing AC, if it were, shops wouldnt spend thousands on AC machines. An electric fan will also help on the condensor. When the high side pressure rises it builds heat. Thats why the fan cycles, to cool the condensor. Your pressure switches need to be in good working order. It should be wired to cycle the fan with the compressor. High side hose always feels hot, low side will feel ice cold and get condensation on it generally. Good luck bud
Well snot, I think the freon has leaked out I went to drive it recently and it was not blowing cold at all. Been trying to find new fittings for it but cannot. Can anyone tell me what size the fittings are that the hoses connect to?
I checked the AC this morning...freon is gone. Ill have to replace the fittings between the hoses and the compressor. I just wish I knew the size exactly thst would make it easier... Does anyone know?
I THINK this will work; both high and low side are listed but on sep pages....what you folks think?
These are to replace the fittings on the pump shown in post #24 of this thread?
Are the fittings on the pump flared or o-ring? You said you got a pump with the wrong fittings but never said which type it had.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
I have the correct compressor now, Sanden 709. I think the fittings are compression...I just dont know. I need to find a parts book or something that would tell me exactly what they are. please be patient with me folks
What I would not give for an old parts book for this old gal