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I have a 1978 Jeep Cherokee and I am doing a lot of work on the engine including some significant upgrades, such as replacing the carburetor with a FiTech fuel injection system and a Davis Unified distributor. These parts are not inexpensive thus i would like to find a way to lock the hood when closed yet I have not found anything that works. Does anyone know of a way to do this?
Thank you!
1978 Jeep Cherokee S; 5.9L/360 V8 automatic/FiTech fuel injection and Davis Unified Distributor systems.
I use a 1/8" coated steel cable and padlock on mine. One loop is fastened to the hood latch bar and the other goes around the frame horn. I can reach the lock from the passenger side wheel well.
1977 Cherokee Chief - The Blair Jeep Project III
A collection of parts flying in close formation
Tatsadasayago wrote:I use a 1/8" coated steel cable and padlock on mine. One loop is fastened to the hood latch bar and the other goes around the frame horn. I can reach the lock from the passenger side wheel well.
Nice! Thank you! So its easy enough to reach in through the grill (I have a razor grill but am thinking of switching back to the original) and get to the pad lock? How long is your cable?
Thanks again!
1978 Jeep Cherokee S; 5.9L/360 V8 automatic/FiTech fuel injection and Davis Unified Distributor systems.
I placed the cable on the passenger side of the hood which puts the padlock on the side of the frame horn. I reach in between the tire and fender well to lock/unlock. Trying to reach through the grille would be difficult. Sorry I don't have the ability to take a photo right now. Oh, and the cable is about 42" long. I cut to length so the lock was within reach.
1977 Cherokee Chief - The Blair Jeep Project III
A collection of parts flying in close formation
My '77's hood will open from the outside, but my '82 has a latch with a release inside the cabin. Possible you could take the parts from a later model Jeep and convert your hood to the interior-release type. Then the hood lock would depend on keeping the cabin locked.
Such a latch should deter the usual nuisance thefts, which are typically easily removed parts like batteries and alternators ... at least in my experience. I kinda think if someone wanted something of many parts like your EFI, they would take the whole truck and strip the parts they wanted at someplace more hidden. So preventing theft of the whole car goes along with locking the cabin and the hood.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
I agree with Tim that a determined thief will steal the whole vehicle most likely.
I reduce this risk by having a battery cutout switch hidden below the starter solenoid. It also reduces the risk of and electrical fire or dead battery should there be a current draw somewhere. 20.00 at Autozone.
1977 Cherokee Chief - The Blair Jeep Project III
A collection of parts flying in close formation
It has been a long weekend and this is my first chance to get back to messages. Yet I wanted to thank everyone for their thoughts and suggestions!
Is the battery cutout switch the same as a kill switch? A friend of mine who is an electronics engineer noted he had a kill switch in an older car of his and offered to install one on my Jeep (I know nothing of these things as I am an automotive newbie).
1978 Jeep Cherokee S; 5.9L/360 V8 automatic/FiTech fuel injection and Davis Unified Distributor systems.
Santeh wrote:It has been a long weekend and this is my first chance to get back to messages. Yet I wanted to thank everyone for their thoughts and suggestions!
Is the battery cutout switch the same as a kill switch? A friend of mine who is an electronics engineer noted he had a kill switch in an older car of his and offered to install one on my Jeep (I know nothing of these things as I am an automotive newbie).
I supposed you could call it a kill-switch. Once you turn the orange key it breaks the connection to the battery. Note the yellow string. When I isolate the battery I drop the key down toward the frame so it's out of sight. Just one more way to prevent some knothead from making off with my rig.
1977 Cherokee Chief - The Blair Jeep Project III
A collection of parts flying in close formation
There are a lot of ways to skin the battery cutoff cat; I've got a simple toggle switch up underneath the dash that lights up a solenoid up by the battery. Same result as Tat, but I don't have to go outside to do it. The only real thing I don't like about my setup is that it kills the FI computer as well. Eventually I'll run a dedicated power wire over to the ECU so it retains memory with the rest of the system isolated.
aa
1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank
This is what I used. Interior push to lock, and then you have to use a key inside the vehicle to open it, and you can wire it into a ignition disable also if you want (wiring is in the engine compartment, so impossible to hot wire if they get inside the cabin). Works good. Nobody is getting my hood open w/ this locked.
You can use a cable hood release latch minus the cable. Use a 12" saw saw blade minus the teeth fits in the gap between the hood and grill. If you know the sweet spot it pops right open. A electric fuel pump can work well. Wife has a dog that hates to get out of truck. With his gas good luck staying in the truck.
Jakes Full Size Jeep Junkyard
Hire the handicap there fun to watch. IR1
Even on the final edition GW's a Loooong flat tip screw driver in the right spot between the hood and grille will pop the hood. Security cable is definitely a good idea.
82 J10
77 J10 Golden Eagle 401
88 GW
You know it's bad when your car is on the EPA's 10 most wanted list!
I have a cutoff switch...cuts power to the steering column, a steering wheel lock (The Club) and an alarm. I dont have the fancy equipment you have, but dangit this is my Jeep and Ihave put hard work and money into her
RamJetFSJ wrote:This is what I used. Interior push to lock, and then you have to use a key inside the vehicle to open it, and you can wire it into a ignition disable also if you want (wiring is in the engine compartment, so impossible to hot wire if they get inside the cabin). Works good. Nobody is getting my hood open w/ this locked.
No super tough, did take some cutting and bending of the panel directly in front of the top of the radiator. I can snap a pic. You might be able to find a spot that requires less or no modification. Your sorta limited by the length of the cable, as you cant really bend it very sharp.
RamJetFSJ wrote:No super tough, did take some cutting and bending of the panel directly in front of the top of the radiator. I can snap a pic. You might be able to find a spot that requires less or no modification. Your sorta limited by the length of the cable, as you cant really bend it very sharp.
A picture would be great! Thank you! I have since ordered a kit and it is due to arrive on Thursday thus I am quite excited to get it installed.
Thanks again!
1978 Jeep Cherokee S; 5.9L/360 V8 automatic/FiTech fuel injection and Davis Unified Distributor systems.