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Finally got up the motivation and energy to tackle the exhaust leak. Got the y-pipe out, driver manifold off. Very thankful to have an air compressor, air ratchet to get me this far before I ran out of gas for the morning (geez I sound like I am 90). Kroil and a pipe wrench easily removed the old stud.
Now with two brand new studs in, hopefully I can tighten down the y-pipe to the manifold enough to stop that danged leak. I have two other tricks up my sleeve to hopefully make the fifth time a charm.
Found a lot of oil on the exhaust manifold gasket... The valve cover bolts were finger loose. Must be why. Maybe that caused the leak too. But I swear the leak was from the manifold to y-pipe junction.
Too hot out now though. I will go to parts store for manifold / head stud kit like I did on the other side. Then either tackle the rest tonight or tomorrow or... whenever I can.
Also going to pick up raffle stuff from Scott once Amy gets home from her trip. Today might be a good day to hit harbor freight for CFSJA raffle donation goodies.
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'86 GW "Troubled Child" tc.wagoneer.org
360, TBI, 4" Skyjacker, 33" BFG MTs, WT D44+ARB, WT AMC20 + LockRight, CB 2m 6m 70cm, K0FSJ
The world's first Robotic Full Size Jeep!
Well heck! Was trying to get my rear axle swapped today and found its 3.31 instead of 2.72 like I thought. Might just throw it in so at least I can have it drive able for now...
SparkyB wrote:Well heck! Was trying to get my rear axle swapped today and found its 3.31 instead of 2.72 like I thought. Might just throw it in so at least I can have it drive able for now...
SparkyB wrote:Well heck! Was trying to get my rear axle swapped today and found its 3.31 instead of 2.72 like I thought. Might just throw it in so at least I can have it drive able for now...
So you can't run a different front gear right? I am not sure what happens if you disconnect the front drive shaft. Some 'full time' transfer cases burn out if both axles are not hooked up.
It's really bad for an AWD tcase to run mismatched gears. At least with a qtrac you have the option to lock the case in hi range and either unlock hubs or remove the front driveshaft. I wouldn't run mismatched gears with a 228 or 229.
derf wrote:It's really bad for an AWD tcase to run mismatched gears. At least with a qtrac you have the option to lock the case in hi range and either unlock hubs or remove the front driveshaft. I wouldn't run mismatched gears with a 228 or 229.
Yeah I figured that. By drive able I mean get it installed and off the concrete outside my garage. I'd rather do that and regear the front since I wanted a 3.31 anyways.
I've been driving the truck around and it is working reasonably well for the most part.
I have the issue with overheating under load but it cools right back down if I let it idle. Probably not something I want to get into fixing before the invasion. I'll just have to watch it.
I do have low oil pressure when it's fully warmed up but I have a pump mid plate that I'll install this weekend along with thicker oil. I think I'm running 5w30 and I'm going to step up to 10W40.
I'm also getting some wonky voltage issues. I have the premiere power welder as my alternator (without the welding box). I'm going to see about replacing it with a one wire alternator instead.
Do keep in mind that getting to some of the trails requires a run up 550, we see a lot of rigs overheating. (Red Mountain, Black Bear, Ophir are a few that come to mind)
Really not much time to do anything about it before hand. Any parts I order may not be here in time. I leave for Ouray a week from Friday.
Though I might could be convinced to remove the electric fan in favor of doing a manual fan if someone would be willing to sell me a shroud at the event. That's an easy swap.
Thing is, it heats up even when the overdrive and lockup torque converter is engaged. But only gradually when pulling sustained grades at highway speed. And that tells me that the radiator isn't enough regardless of the fan that's blowing on it.
Worth a try since it costs ya nothing but time? Before ya pull the old one, hit it with one of those infrared thermometers and see if you can detect any blockage.