It in no way turns it into a cam position sensor, by locking out advance. It simply removes the advance capability of the distributor.REDONE wrote:Yes, when you "lock out" a distributor, you turn it into a "cam position sensor". You don't want any kind of mechanical advance or vacuum advance telling the computer that the cam is in a position that it is not. The computer will determine the amount of advance and fire the coil by itself. The REAL position of the cam as measured by the locked out dizzy; and the engine load computed by the O2 sensor and MAF sensor give the computer RPM and engine load data so that it controls the timing curve.
In a sense it does. You of all people should know this.babywag wrote:It in no way turns it into a cam position sensor, by locking out advance. It simply removes the advance capability of the distributor.REDONE wrote:Yes, when you "lock out" a distributor, you turn it into a "cam position sensor". You don't want any kind of mechanical advance or vacuum advance telling the computer that the cam is in a position that it is not. The computer will determine the amount of advance and fire the coil by itself. The REAL position of the cam as measured by the locked out dizzy; and the engine load computed by the O2 sensor and MAF sensor give the computer RPM and engine load data so that it controls the timing curve.
No it doesn't matter, you install the distributor as normal.ShagWagon wrote:So after I do all that and re install. Will it matter that I rotated the shaft 180 degrees?
Or do I line it up to where my old distributor rotor was marked when I originally removed it.
Man up Shag. Any FSJ wrench worth his salt can hold a rusty pair of needle-nosed pliers with the left hand to jump the solenoid while holding a finger in number one with the other.ShagWagon wrote:Hrmmmm I was planning to drop it in and lining up the new rotor where my old rotor lined up, because I had already spent so much time getting it dialed in. Then putting the wires on the new cap in the same order and place. Then rechecking timing with my light after I get it running.
Would that be the stupid way to do it?
I'm working solo so I don't have anyone to put their finger on the hole while I crank today.
Ok, in a very crude stretch sure It's a camshaft sensor...but simply locking it down doesn't change the signal or accuracy.Tatsadasayago wrote:In a sense it does. You of all people should know this.babywag wrote:It in no way turns it into a cam position sensor, by locking out advance. It simply removes the advance capability of the distributor.REDONE wrote:Yes, when you "lock out" a distributor, you turn it into a "cam position sensor". You don't want any kind of mechanical advance or vacuum advance telling the computer that the cam is in a position that it is not. The computer will determine the amount of advance and fire the coil by itself. The REAL position of the cam as measured by the locked out dizzy; and the engine load computed by the O2 sensor and MAF sensor give the computer RPM and engine load data so that it controls the timing curve.
Hahaha! I prefer to do the splits across the engine bay with a breaker bar on the crank in one hand and my pinky on the other hand shoved into the plug hole.Tatsadasayago wrote: Man up Shag. Any FSJ wrench worth his salt can hold a rusty pair of needle-nosed pliers with the left hand to jump the solenoid while holding a finger in number one with the other.
The fitech just needs a signal to know when to fire coil. It has no idea where cam or crank is.Tatsadasayago wrote:That was my point. The Fitech unit needs a signal so it knows where the crank and cam are positioned. I'm sure that a Cam or Crank sensor would be ideal but that would add unneeded complexity to a crude setup when using the signal from a locked down dizzy performs the same task for cheap.
I'm a Nerd and I get where you were coming from, but had to respond anyway.