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I'm trying to track down this ticking sound that is coming from the stock AMC 360ci V8.
I removed the engine accessories so you can hear the noise better and to rule out anything else on the front of the engine.
Can anybody hear just from the video and know what it is?
Is the engine toast? Still has plenty of power, just makes this noise that can't be good.
Try removing the spark plug wires one at a time to try and isolate a rod knock. When the cylinder is not firing, rod bearing noise will become much less.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Well, it is if you use your hands and do it while the engine is running. Remove the wire, not the plug. I have a pair of plastic fuse-pulling pliers that I can use ... you need something well-insulated. However, you can shut off, pull the wire, and the engine will restart without one cylinder. If the wire is hanging in mid-air, there will be no spark. If it's next to the engine, it will arc over - this could be a hazard if there is a pool of gas on top of the engine or nearby.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
I did the spark plug wire removal for each cylinder and it didn't change anything...
Anybody have any ideas on what to look for next? I tried the hose trick to try and narrow it down, but couldn't hear anything. Also got a mechanics stethoscope, but i don't really have an ear for these things, so I couldn't tell where the sound was coming from. It sounds like it's coming from the driver's side bank, but not sure where on that side exactly. Could it be the distributor?
1981 Cherokee 2-door -- 360 V8 -- T-176 -- NP-208 -- Dana 44 + AMC 20 -- Narrow track, base model
Here's the only thing I can tell you, it's happening ~300 times a minute (10 pops took just under 2 seconds), so half of your idle RPM, so it's not bolts hitting something. It honestly sounds to me like a bad exhaust leak.
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.
I hear an exhaust leak in there somewhere as well but It sounds different than the valve train noise. I am familiar with the sound but it doesn't mean my previous reply is right or wrong.
I thought I heard some "Huffing" sounds coming from the carb when you opened up the throttle that last time. I would suggest you do a fairly good and rapid half-throttle 'stab' and listen for a 'FuhDuhDuhDuh"' sound coming from the carb throat. Methinks you've got a worn cam lobe/lifter, collapsed lifter or bent pushrod on an intake valve.
Old AMC engines suffer from the tips of the valves pulling through the locks and when the tip recedes enough you'll get a similar sound. (Just before the valve pulls through and munches the piston.
Best of luck to you and Kudos for a very good video. Being able to hear the sound clearly is a very helpful way to get a good diagnosis.
1977 Cherokee Chief - The Blair Jeep Project III
A collection of parts flying in close formation
Hard to tell in the video, does it seem to run smooth or is it a little rough? looks a little rough in the video.
If it runs smooth it could be an exhaust leak. if it isn't I'd pull the valve covers and look for something obvious like a bent push rod or rocker problem and the valve stem heights.
Runs pretty good. I'm starting to suspect an exhaust leak. What's the best way to test for this?
I've read about using an air compressor at the tailpipe (engine off), stuffing tailpipe (engine running), or spraying around exhaust manifold with something (soapy water to see bubbles?)
I do see that the last manifold bolt near cylinder 7 is missing...
1981 Cherokee 2-door -- 360 V8 -- T-176 -- NP-208 -- Dana 44 + AMC 20 -- Narrow track, base model
To respond to your question dubbstarrs, the new gasket helped, but did not get rid of the sound I was most concerned about.
It is sounding a bit better now with the new exhaust manifold gaskets from remflex, so I think there was an exhaust leak somewhere that was cleared up. I also did the basic ford ignition upgrade and reset timing for altitude and it seems to be running a bit smoother. But I still have that ticking sound from driver's side. I think it could be low oil pressure? And subsequent lifter tick? I have around 25 psi hot idle, but only goes up to 30 psi at 2500 rpm.
I have also since replaced all vacuum lines with new silicone line. Next on my to do list is to take off carb and rebuild. I rewatched my posted video and it sounds like a hissing coming from carb gasket maybe. Just good to do it, but I don't feel that a vacuum leak is causing the sound. I fear there is something mechanical: push rods, lifters, oil pump is weak, something like that.
Another area I am going to check is the AIR pump system. Could it be the check valves? I have gone through before with a tube and also an automotive stethoscope to try and pinpoint the sound, but my ears are untrained and I can't nail it down exactly.
I may have time this week to do another video update, again with all belts removed. I will do a half throttle snap as mentioned earlier. I will also take off valve cover and take a look, but I'm not sure what to look for or how to test for worn out parts.
1981 Cherokee 2-door -- 360 V8 -- T-176 -- NP-208 -- Dana 44 + AMC 20 -- Narrow track, base model
Rule of thumb is 10 psi per 1000 rpm. I have not read the whole thread. But it might pay to change out the oil pressure bypass spring on the oil filter adapter plate. Those get old and soften with age. 25 psi at idle is pretty good for these engines. Have you done a leak down check of the cylinders? I posted info about a thicker gasket in my build thread that was the only way I corrected my carb base gasket leak. Need new video.
'81 Cherokee Chief 81 WT Chief/MSD 6/Holley Sniper/ Rusty 4" Spring lift/ Bulltear oil adapter/K&P Engineering Oil Filter/ NP 208/ Serehill Light Harness/KC LED Headlights/ Evil Twin Fab Roof Rack and sliders/ Ross mirror mounts.