Grand_Wag_85 wrote:Looking good. Can't wait to see Brutus 2.0!
srobertsfsj wrote:heck yeah Jason, looking good, cant wait to see it in person!!
Blake wrote:I thought this was a 'family' site????
This thread is full of pornographic pics!!!
Thanks guys. I am really happy with the progress. As with any project though there sure are a lot of delays. I called my local GM dealer yesterday and asked about the thrust washer pin and they don't sell it... referred me to a local AAMCO shop... they don't sell it. So McMaster is next, http://www.mcmaster.com/#97395a606/=142vhvj! At least I get 10 of them so that one can work!j20brett wrote:Sexy!
Tatsadasayago wrote:And here i thought Capitalism was hitting the Shift Key...
Thanks. Its not really how long it is that matters, but how you use it! LOLj20owner wrote:That is one long drive-train. Looks hot, though.
LS6 exhaust manifolds? I had read somewhere that "block hugger" exhaust manifolds were the thing to get. Same thing?j20brett wrote:Very nice! Do yourself a favor now and get a set of LS-6 manifolds to help with driveshaft/frame clearances. Got mine for $40 on craigslist. O! And think about an oil pan skid design now. I mounted mine to the engine mounts and back oil pan bolts
The starter and the clutch slave cylinder (below the starter) are tucked in pretty tight to the block already. I am not really worried about it. I am thinking I will run the passenger exhaust to cross over underneath the tailhousing of the NV4500 and then combine on the driver side to run back. From your pictures, the LS6/LS3 manifolds aren't all that much closer to the block... just that they present a flatter mounting flange whereas the stock manifolds "point" to the frame rail making them more difficult to use. This is probably the best picture I have of the relationship of exhaust to starter:j20brett wrote:Now that I think about it, you are passenger drop. I don't know where you are going to put your exhaust/driveshaft to get around the starter.
The more I think of it, I may just run true duals but keep them tight to the underside of the cab with a radiation shield on each one. This would allow me full access to everything in the powertrain from the underside without having to remove the exhaust. It would also keep the 4500 output notch open if I need to do a crossmember there. I have the 205 clocked not flat but maybe down 5*. I don't have a picture of it but the bottom of the 205 is basically level with the bottom of the 203. I could easily clock the 205 down a little more if needed. This potentially would also help me fit it inside the frame rail. Only time will tell I guess.j20brett wrote:Dang, I guess I should have read my own thread! Yeah, LS3 are the ones. Maybe with your lift you wont have the driveshaft clearance issues that ive been dealing with. Driveshaft just barely kisses the crossover tube on full bump. And yes, they point straight down instead of at the frame rails. I would have had a horrible time trying to make the turn back to cross under the bellhousing, and further limited driveshaft clearance. Anyways, im sure you have a good plan and am looking for to watching you get it done!
I considered mounting the oil pan skid to the flange, but id would be tough to make a piece to bolt up to the flange itself, which is narrow, so not a lot of surface area there to distribute the load. Plus, it was easier to make mounts to attach to the engine mounts.
I know about the fluid and no there is none in there. The engine is connected to the bell housing but there is ZERO connection where the clutch goes. I guess I could pull the 205 off or lift the 205 with the cherry picker and see if that would relieve the output shaft stress if that is it. Otherwise, I will pull the top off and check it out. It might be worth me taking off the PTO covers because that is where the reverse sits. The guy I bought it from said it came out of a tow truck that was totaled and he stored it for a few years in a school bus. Worst case is that I will take it to a local tranny shop and have them give it a lookover and do the "fix" to the overdrive gear nut.Blake wrote:No 5th and no reverse huh?
my bet is that you have something misaligned. I bet the transfer cases are putting lateral pressure on the output shaft. Can't tell from the pic, but you don't have the engine connected to the tranny bellhousing right? So that wouldn't be it. Check all that stuff and maybe pull the shifter out and take a look.
Is there oil in that thing? OH BTW - when it comes to the oil, I cannot say this strongly enough. ONLY and I mean very literally ONLY use the GM oil part number 12346190 If you use Amsoil or any of the other brands you won't be able to shift it as easily and it will rattle more than it should. Believe me, I've been there and done that.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-12346190 ... B000QIR1V2