Pulling t176 '79 j10

[gkm09]

I am curious on what is involved to pull my t176. Do I have to pull the engine?

[Tatsadasayago]

It's fairly straightforward gkm:
Disconnect the battery.
Raise the vehicle at all 4 corners with jackstands if possible. OR
Pull the front and rear driveshafts making sure your vehicle is blocked so it can't move.
Tape the u-joint caps so they don't fall off.
Remove the starter. (Don't let it hang by the power cable).
Loosen then disconnect the transfer case and clutch linkage and pull the clutch fork out of the bell housing.
Remove any vacuum lines and tie them clear.
Disconnect the speedometer cable and any electrical wires from the transmission and transfer case.
Using a floor jack or transmission jack, support the transmission and remove the cross member bolts (8 of them) then remove the transfer case.
Lower the transmission about 6". It is best to support the bell housing or engine oil pan.
Remove the carpet and transmission cover then either remove the shifter or pull the entire top cover.
Loosen the 4 transmission bolts and ease it away from the bell housing.
Once back far enough that the input shaft is clear of the clutch assembly, lower and slide the transmission out from under the vehicle.

Straightforward, but not exactly easy.
A helper is suggested as even the aluminum transfer case and transmission can be tough to manage when in a floor jack.

An alternative is to pull the trans and transfer case as a unit, but a quality trans jack is a definite requirement unless you are the Hulk.

Good luck!

[tgreese]

You sure it's a '79 and a T-176? 1980 was the first year for a T-176 in a Jeep. A 1979 J-10 has a T-15 3-speed or a T-18 4-speed.

[rocklaurence]

You'll also need to pull the shifter out. Im cant remember the stick comes off with a Lock Collar or if you need to pull the top cover.

[REDONE]

My 79 J-10 rides about 7-8" higher than stock with lift and tires combined and the trans BARELY rolls out from under it without using jack stands. Unless you're rolling 6" lift and 33s or more, you'll need to put it on stands.

I have to loosen my engine mounts or they won't let the motor/trans assembly rotate enough for the bellhousing to clear the floor of the cab.

a few nuggets from experience.

[Stuka]

T176 has a lock colar that you push down and turn counter clockwise 90 degrees to release.

But it should be either a T15 or a T18 as mention above, those use a pin through the shifter. The cases are also cast iron, T176 is aluminum.

[Tatsadasayago]

Oh, and I forgot to mention removing the E-brake cable. That gets in the way every time.

I can't say I've ever run across a 79 with the 176 but I suppose it's possible some were installed in the late production run.

[gkm09]

Thanks for the info! This is my first j10 and previous owner said it was a t176. How do I tell?

[tgreese]

Aluminum case? Cast iron? Put a magnet to it.

What's your VIN?

[REDONE]

Here is a link to Novaks page on manual transmissions. Those of us who've gone through it thoroughly know that there are some small errors on applications, but the technical data on the actual transmissions themselves is superb. The guide should be more than enough to correctly identify what trans you have, with the benefit of pictures!
My 79 J-10 has a 304 in it, so I never rely on "how it was supposed to be" as being what you actually have.
https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/t ... ns/manual/

[gkm09]

Turns out it is in fact a t18. Is the removal process the same?

[tgreese]

What's wrong with the transmission? It takes a lot to damage a T-18.

JMO - Having just pulled the T-18 frm my J20, I would not attempt removal/replacement with a floor jack. It's too heavy to try and balance on a floor jack.

http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtop ... 10&t=10473

[Tatsadasayago]

I agree with tgreese! When I was younger, I removed and replaced many T-18s with the transfer case attached using nothing but my strength. Pulling and replacing the substantially lighter Quadra-Trac (With the low range unit removed) 3 years ago without even a floor jack was a miserable experience that left me stove up for a week.
You're better off borrowing or buying a trans jack for sure.

As far as the R and R process, they are the same.
Since you will have the trans out, it would be a good time to inspect the clutch, throwout bearing, pilot bushing, pressure plate and flywheel.

[gkm09]

It's loud 1-3 which I was told could be warn bearings. 4th gear is quiet. Idle in neutral I can hear something spinning until I push the clutch in. Maybe this is normal I am not sure

[Tatsadasayago]

On the T-18 4th gear is direct (Straight through) so it's likely the countershaft gear cluster or idler gear bearings are bad. The countershaft is held in place with a long metal pin and supported by non-tapered roller bearings.
A couple of other common issues are worn out input shaft bearing and pocket rollers.
The bad news is that none of the above are easy to fix and above the pay grade of most DIY Jeepers.
There is help nearby as we have FSJrs from Wa to San Diego!

The sound that goes away when the clutch is pressed is likely the input shaft bearing. In rare cases the throwout bearing is the cause, but most of the time it's quiet until you press the pedal.

tgreese just went through his and I recall him saying the input bearing was the culprit.
Hopefully the gear shift lever doesn't move back and forth as you accelerate and decelerate. That usually means big $$$ to repair.

[gkm09]

It shifts fine and doesn't move when I accelerate. Doesn't pop out of gear.